The Ship Model Forum

Lastly the Hangar Deck:

[attachment=2]Hangar Deck.jpg[/attachment]

In place and nearly ready to go:

[attachment=1]Complete.jpg[/attachment]

Or at least on stand(by)

[attachment=0]On Stand.jpg[/attachment]

Now I just have a ton of small detail to add and more painting to go.

Forward superstructure gets the same treatment:

[attachment=1]Forward Super Structure.jpg[/attachment]

Then can be attached to the hull (I am leaving it separate at the moment as it makes addition of extra detail and painting easier):

[attachment=0]FSS Added.jpg[/attachment]

On to the rear control deck.

This is a mix of filament and resin print parts. Decks are printed in gray filament with 2 layers of wood filament for the planking levels which involves 2 filament swaps during the print. (start in gray, swap to wood, swap to gray)

[attachment=3]Rear control deck parts.jpg[/attachment]

Cyanoacetate fixes all the parts together really well.

[attachment=2]RCD Assembled.jpg[/attachment]

And slowly add extra pieces to give it a bit more oompf:

[attachment=1]RCD Extra Detail.jpg[/attachment]

Then it can be added to the hull along with other bits of detail:

[attachment=1]RCD Extra Detail.jpg[/attachment]

Now I start adding the deck prints:

Part 1:

[attachment=2]First Deck.jpg[/attachment]

Part 2:

[attachment=1]Second Deck.jpg[/attachment]

And so on until all in place:

[attachment=0]Part 3.jpg[/attachment]

Which sort of completes the hull. One or 2 smaller bits of detail to be added.

The ship is basically 4 parts:

[list]Hull[/list]
[list]Forward control deck superstructureHull[/list]
[list]Hangar deck superstructure[/list]
[list]Rear control deck superstructure[/list]

Now I start adding the deck prints:

Part 1:

[attachment=1]First Deck.jpg[/attachment]

Part 2:

[attachment=0]Second Deck.jpg[/attachment]

And so on until all in place:

[attachment=2]Part 3.jpg[/attachment]

Which sort of completes the hull. One or 2 smaller bits of detail to be added.

The ship is basically 4 parts:

[list]Hull[/list]
[list]Forward control deck superstructureHull[/list]
[list]Hangar deck superstructure[/list]
[list]Rear control deck superstructure[/list]

Shoot the first tone of Hull Grey:

[attachment=5]Hull with first Grey Tone.jpg[/attachment]

Then mask of the first tone grey that we want to keep:

[attachment=4]Mask first Tone.jpg[/attachment]

Shoot the second tone of grey:

[attachment=3]Second Tone.jpg[/attachment]

Then mask the bits of that we want to keep:

[attachment=2]Mask second Tone.jpg[/attachment]

Spray the third tone of grey:

[attachment=1]Third Tone.jpg[/attachment]

Let it dry and finally we can remove the masking to see what we have:

[attachment=0]Unmasked.jpg[/attachment]

I have actually still been working on this. I better provide some updates :)

So the hull got stuck together , cleaned up and looks like this:

[attachment=5]Completed Hull.jpg[/attachment]

With cross sections and deck supports:

[attachment=4]Completed Hull WIth Cross Members.jpg[/attachment]

So the first thing to do is to apply the black waterline band. Just a rough shot of black will do:

[attachment=3]Hull with Black Waterline.jpg[/attachment]

Then some careful masking:

[attachment=2]Hull with careful masking.jpg[/attachment]

Shoot the hull red:

[attachment=1]Hull with red shot.jpg[/attachment]

Then mask of the red paint:

[attachment=0]Hull with Red Masked.jpg[/attachment]

Thanks David,

I have gone through these plans a bit and the level of detail is amazing. Thanks so much for your input!

Am I right in assuming that the cross-section drawings are internal? They seem to be missing details on armour/torpedo belt details etc.

Regards,

Mike

Thanks David,

A little bit of light reading for me to do on the weekend (my Germans a bit rusty as well, but the level of detail is amazing).

Hi Dave,

The cross sections came from a relatively low-res version I got some time ago from FreeShipPlans. I also have a set of the ShipArchive ones but these were not to hand when I was doing the hull design.

I was also not completely across converting hull line drawings to 3D models and struggled a bit with simple lofting between cross sections. The bulge on the nose was really beyond that.

If I was doing it again the results might be a bit closer.

Mike,

I had the same problem in my USS [i]Oklahoma City[/i] CLG-5 CAD model (US Cleveland class hull). The bulbous bow was something new in the 1930s.

I couldn't get the CAD system to generate the correct sharply curved surface that faired into the smoother surfaces aft. So I drew the bulbous part as a separate entity, and then created the other hull surfaces using the edges of the bulbous part as templates for the other surfaces.

I actually created the hull with about a dozen separate surfaces. I did the tricky parts first and then filled in the gaps with simpler surfaces.

Phil

Thanks Tom :)

Hi David,

The bows, the bows...

The hull was one of my first attempts at 3D design of this type. Promise I have improved and I should go back and fix this, but...

This is what it's supposed to look like (Source [url=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/German_battleship_Tirpitz#/media/File:Bundesarchiv_DVM_10_Bild-23-63-40,_Schlachtschiff_%22Tirpitz%22,_Stapellauf.jpg]Wikipedia[/url] ) ):

[attachment=0]Reality.PNG[/attachment]

This is what the 3D design looks like:

[attachment=2]Design.PNG[/attachment]

I dislike it intensely, and have remodelled it slightly to look like this using plastic putty and whatever was lying around:

[attachment=1]Current.jpg[/attachment]

Its sort of there, but still needs some work I think.

Those look great!

Tom

Hi all,

I re-worked the main turrets and mast with hollowing and am very pleased with the results.

Love the great ideas that come up in this forum and appreciate your assistance.

[attachment=1]20231125_021711.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=0]20231125_021733.jpg[/attachment]

Had very good luck printing hollow masts, in a vertical orientation, hollow. In some cases printing in several sections. The wire makes it very easy to locate the sections and retain strength. The biggest issue is keeping the central hole open during washing and curing. I would run a wire up and down while washing to prevent bubbles forming and blocking the passage. A way to do the yards is to have the cross piece stubbed with a hole to run the wire through both yards which are printed separately. Solid yards will bend and droop, especially under tension of rigging.

Keep up the great work! I can appreciate the work on the sea planes! Tom

I did some printed ladder rungs and expedited the process by having just one line of holes, the rungs were just inserted into the hull on one side and the other side just adhered with a spot of adhesive to the surface. Only half as many holes, easier alignment etc.

[quote="Iceman 29"]Nice turrets, better then the Trumpeter one's !

Yes, the piano wire is compulsory on the inside, otherwise it bends irreparably, idem for cannons.
That's what I started to do for periscopes.

Picture: http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=346058&start=20[/quote]
Thanks pascal,

Maybe better than the stock Tamiya turrets, but then I saw a video of some dude gluing the individual ladder rungs on the back of the turret from PE one rung at a time from the Upgrade kit. They are better, but I simply don't have that much time..

Nice turrets, better then the Trumpeter one's !

Yes, the piano wire is compulsory on the inside, otherwise it bends irreparably, idem for cannons.
That's what I started to do for periscopes.

Picture: http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=346058&start=20

For my ARL and DE masts I printed them in halves as you describe. It also worked better to make the yards hollow and each end printed separately and also joined with a wire. For the DE the mast protruded through several decks and it worked well to print each section secretly and run a wire to locate all the sections. I'm sure whatever solutions you work out will be satisfactory. An advantage of 3D is if doesn't work one can make modifications.

Regards: Tom

Thanks Tom and Pascal,

Maybe print the masts in halves and glue them around the wire :/

More stuff to clean up and paint...

[attachment=0]34cm Bruno.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=1]34cm Bruno 2.jpg[/attachment]