The Ship Model Forum

Brian:

I still don't quite understand what construction method you will be using for the hull construction. Some sort of traditional ribs with sheathing? Even the real ship with the myriads of internal divisions adding to the hull girder strength had to allow for some flexing in a seaway by having an expansion joint in the superstructure between the stacks. Wood has been a tried and true material, with plywood having great stability for major structural framing. I don't have one, but the laser cutters would be very handy for accurately cutting ribs, superstructure bulkheads and whatnot.

Just a WAG, but the hull, might be only about 10% of the project time wise. Additionally you might want to explore 3D printing as there are in many cases for smaller items many advantages to an additive as opposed to a subtractive process. For example a MK 37 or MK 38 director can be printed with all of the rails, hand grabs etc already attached. Inclined ladders, small deck items such as ships binoculars, signal lamps can also be printed as a complex, but single piece. I printed all the 5" twin mounts for my Alaska and Missouri in 1:192, but these items would also look good in 1:120.

Good luck! Tom

Brian,

Thanks for answering my question. Not exactly what I expected, but at least I know why you mentioned NWS Earle, NJ. I will take it that the photo you posted is IOWA at NWS Earle? That would make an interesting diorama with both the ship and adjacent R/R ammo pier. If you decided to go 1/96 scale, you could do the R/R stuff in HO gauge, right?!!!

In regards to the round metal bead at the top of the hull as per your latest q/a - I achieved this with styrene rod glued to the top of the hull edge. Here is a shot of NEW JERSEY (musuem ship) that shows this metal bead:

I took this in 2000 during our crew reunion.

Thanks - and good luck with your project.

Hank

Brian:

I was able to tape the wire to the top of the side plate (decking in place). The wire protruding above the decking left a space behind to form the waterway when I added the (in my case wood stripping) decking, applying small amounts of CA from behind. The only place I needed to transition to another material (brass wire) was at the stern where the curvature considerably increased. On my ship there was a natural break at the midships deck level bulwark where i could break the wire and use two pieces without a joint.

With your model RR experience and 3D you should be able to produce many fine items for this ship. Do realize that such a project is likely to absorb years of effort, depending on the degree of fidelity and detail you envision.

Regards: Tom

Hank, just now re-reading posts in this thread, I see I did not answer your question. I'm damn sorry about it. Please accept my apology.

I work with 2D and 3D software to create prototype model railroad items for reproduction. A retirement business, I am hoping. In the 1980s I was a journalist in Iowa and took it upon myself to cover the return of Iowa to the fleet (toured her at Philly in June 1980). So, I've got this thing about the Iowa Class, and I'm a sort of rail buff, and I thought, combine both and I'd have a show-stopper at model railroad shows where I hope to hawk my wares. -Brian

Tom, thanks much for the artwork. Your mention of Sumrall caused me to pull my copy off the shelf. I discovered I've only read half the book. . . .

How in the heck did you attach the music wire to the side plates!? In my imagination, I'm attempting to work the wire onto the plate after first applying some sort of super glue. I see myself with both hands glued to the hull and deck.

-Brian

The only photo (I know) of the tunnel on page 137 of RF Sumrall's Iowa Class Battleships. You can make out the skeg amongst all the shoring and whatnot.

Tom

Here is a shot showing the bead running the length of the hull. Also note the butt straps joining the vertical joints in the 60 lb plate.

Tom

This bead at the top of the shell plating has been discussed before on the Iowa class forum. Yes, it's somewhere around the 2" plus diameter. It sits on top of 60 lb (1.5") external plate. On my 1:192 model I simulated this with a long piece (actually more than one) of steel music wire which followed the smooth curve of the hull nicely. At your scale that works out to a nominal 20 thou so a number of materials would fit the bill.

Cheers: Tom

Ryan S., curator, Battleship New Jersey, posted a video (YouTube, all his videos are good!) about the battleships transiting canals. I'll post the link below. At the 6:30 mark, I believe it is film of BB62 sliding through Panama locks during Vietnam War.

There is a sailor holding a ruler between the hull and side of a lock. Interesting. But, it also shows the round at the top of the side plates. Looks like 2-1/2 inches in diameter to me. What do you guys think?

https://youtu.be/qzRhYaTg354

Well harrumph:

I know I have some drawings somewhere that show this. However the BOGP drawings for NJ and Whisky on the HNSA website do not show this! Really the only useful things the centerline drawings show is the relation of turret three to the shape and structure of the hull. The external hull plans show you what you need to know about this area. If I do come across the drawing I am thinking of I will post it. These ships had fairly unusual hull shapes with the emphasis on speed. Despite the large looking fantail deck, the ships actually had little below the waterline volume here, something that most of the model companies got quite wrong. Outboard there is a very obvious pinching in order to feed a good clean water flow to the outboard screws.

Tom

Tom, centerline profile? I haven't noticed that. Maybe the FDD 1/96 drawings have that? I'll take a look. Thanks for the explanation.

I hope to upload 4-5 ribs with skin in the next couple of days. Decided not to use the 2D software, just create directly in the 3D software. Not quite as handy as the 2D, but I'm not going to mess further with the polyline translation problem between the two packages.

-Brian

The short keg at the forward end of the aft tunnel is to support the weight of turret three as the hull girder begins to thin here, despite the huge appearance of the after deck. Particularly helpful, structurally, when dry docked. Consulting one of the available centerline profiles shows this relationship.

Some people on the forum have rather extensively researched the Iowa's hull shape, "Big Jim Blade" comes to mind. For those of us doing traditional hull construction methods, our transpositions are perhaps not precise enough to realize the possible increase in significant figures. Using almost any of the available drawings one will be much more accurate than the plastic kits on the market.

Cheers: Tom

> I know what I don't know. And I don't know a lot. <

Sean, that remark is perfect. You know more than me, though: a docking keel? Do you mean for use in drydocking?

I've been stymied for some days now trying to solve a problem or two with the software I'm using. I'm continuing to attack it, though.

Good luck with your 1/96 (almost 9-1/4 feet long, whew). -Brian

Good job, great plan, and kudo's to you. I too am gearing up for a build, but of the BB62 and in 1:96.

I'll add though, that the 'gold lines' that you're asking about, are for the "Docking keel". That seems to be left out of most 'reproduction's' as well as discussions.

There are a few members here whom have been VERY helpful in me getting my logistics in place. And they are VERY knowledgable about the topic. I know what I don't know. And I don't know a lot.

Blessings, and Happy Haasenpfeffer Day!

Sean

Brian:

I built a 1:192 scratch built version of Missouri, hidden some where in these threads. I added as much detail as I could for it's "modern" configuration by utilizing hundreds of photographs that I took onboard. At the 1:120 scale much can be done, really required, vis a vis detail. Being able to research enough to take advantage of this scale will be a major challenge. During the course of the APA project I got started in 3D printing and went back and replaced quite a few APA parts, but also 1:192 items on my Missouri and Alaska CB1 from 20 mm, 5" twin mounts, Mk 37 directors and on and on. For some smaller and complex items the additive process has advantages over a subtractive. I don't know if the files used for each have anything in common. I was able to produce a very detailed 5" mount and directors. Hank was able to enlarge the Mk37 and it makes a very nice uniting 1:144 for his USS Stoddard, either of those items would look very good in 1:120.

As a suggestion, you might start out with something fun like the bridge/fire control tower and see how you like working in this scale.

Regards: Tom

Tom, Hank, thanks so much for helping me out! I'm semi-retired; I work one day a week, and it's today this week. I'll respond more fully tomorrow. again, thanks!

-Brian

BTW, Hank is briefly mentioned in Stillwells book! A 1:120 NJ at standard (not full load) displacement should weigh in at a hefty 52 lbs!

Regards: Tom

Brian,

You are in the right locale' for the scratchbuild models, etc. Your project sounds interesting....however, I am more interested at the moment in your involvement with NWS, Earle, NJ - I have a reason why, but would like to know how/who/why, etc. - you can also PM me, if you wish. A railroad project????

I served in NEW JERSEY during her short 1968-69 commissioning and as Tom mentioned, I built a 1:200 scale model of her (kit-bashed) over a 6 year period. Nothing like what you're diving into, that's for sure!!! I met one of the IOWA crew who was in the fire party that got to the bottom of Turret 2 at a seafood festival about 10 years ago - we had a very serious discussion about that tragic event.

Hank Strub

This is scratch builds, perhaps you are already moved. Glad to see that you are building in the 1:120 scale, the rather odd scale that I am building my APA in. That will make for a hefty, but not unmanageable ship. My APA is a much smaller ship, but very manageable.

Hank Strubb is a visitor to this forum and served aboard NJ during the Vietnam deployment and constructed a very nice model of the ship during this period. Though not the same era exactly, his build, on the WIP forum, is a good reference. Certainly his ears will perk up seeing someone build a version of his old ship.

For some items you might consider 3D printing as an alternative, computer based design medium.

Best regards: Tom

Well, I thought I was in the Online Scratchbuild Projects forum when I posted this thread. Can it be moved there by a moderator, please?