The Ship Model Forum

Kurt!

So glad that you like the AZ turrets and superstructure!

Yes, [b]use only acrylic paints meant for plastics[/b]. Enamels will not harden on 3D printed plastic.

Other than using acrylic paints meant for plastics, the parts are [b]very fragile[/b]. Being designed for a tight fit, trim, if necessary at all, rather than force.

Let the parts [b]sit in sunlight for a few hours[/b] before painting. The UV sunlight will cure any remaining uncured resin.

If they need any cleaning, use Simple Green, Goo Gone or Bestine. Do NOT use mineral spirits. Mineral spirits will melt the plastic.

Please consider posting pics of your build!

Steve, Received my 1/350 'Zona turrets and superstucture they are Amazing!!! Anything you recommend with these parts except using acrylic paint? I'd really, really hate to ruin these.

Kurt

Hey Steve, Do you think you could post (in a different part of the forum) a dummied down explanation of the design process involved in producing these gems? Enquiring minds want to know!

Kurt

Upon request by several modelers, a set of [b][color=#0000FF][i]Arizona/Pennsylvania[/i] turrets[/color] [color=#008000]with separate barrels[/color][/b] and another [b][color=#408000]set without barrels[/color][/b] are now available in 1/700 and 1/350.

Using the set with separate barrels, the modeler will be able to set his or her own elevation from -5 degrees to +30 degrees.

The set without barrels is intended to help modelers who choose to use their own brass barrels (not included).

Link (on the left side of the screen, just click on the scale you want):
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/model_monkey

Due to a 3D printing limitation of four parts, the set includes two turrets. Two sets will be necessary to complete your model.

[quote="Jon C Ryckert"]Steve, any chance that you will be doing the fighting tops of Arizona/Pennsylvania? The ones provided in the 1/200 kit are nice but I think that they could greatly improved upon.[/quote]
Intriguing! Please point out where the kit falls short and I'll focus on making that better.

[quote="DavidP"]Steve, so your problem is the area between the left 20mm platform & the left tripod post, correct?[/quote]
Email sent. Hopefully, we can figure this area out.

Steve, any chance that you will be doing the fighting tops of Arizona/Pennsylvania? The ones provided in the 1/200 kit are nice but I think that they could greatly improved upon.

[quote="DavidP"]the 1941 jpg plan I sent you should be good for that.[/quote]
[color=#0000FF][b]David, thanks so much for the '41 drawings! I really appreciate it.[/b][/color] Your 1945 Pennsylvania model looks really, really good!

The drawing you sent is particularly helpful with the features of the navigation bridge and rangefinder/air defense platform. Thank you very much!

Accurate 1941 Pennsylvania drawings have been difficult to find generally, in that in every drawing I have had access to, the position of certain deckhouses does not match photos of the ship. This is particularly so of the flag bridge, the lowest, largest level. While the shape of the decks matches photos, the shape and position of the deckhouse does not.

Alan Chesley's drawings of the ship as it appeared in 1935 don't show the tower's individual bridge decks, just an overall plan and profile view, but what is visible does match photos making this a very important drawing for the design.

Careful study of photos indicates that Pennsylvania's flag bridge deckhouse is a compound structure, with an inner six-sided deckhouse enveloped forward by two dog-leg-shaped bulkheads forming an outer, expanded deckhouse that abuts the rear of the armored conning tower. It is similar, but not identical to, Arizona's. The plan-view drawings of this deck I have had access to show a simple, big room, much wider and simply shaped than what appears in photos.

The two photos below (thanks navsource) show how the rear-most part of the flag bridge deckhouse recedes under the platform above which is supported by several stanchions. It is the exact location of the footprint of this deckhouse that I am after. I [i]think[/i] that the inner six-sided deckhouse footprint matches Arizona's. Please confirm or deny.

[quote="aptivaboy"]Any chance of a 1941/42 Pennsy bridge for those of us wanting to convert the 1/350th Arizona into her sister?
Bob[/quote]
[b][color=#0000FF]Thanks to David for good 1935 references![/color][/b]
The 1935 and 1941 [i]Pennsy[/i] designs are done.

I have purchased Model Monkey's 1/700 scale parts for Howe, Duke of York and Anson as well as MK V and VI HACS for those ships and I am very pleased with them. Highly recommended.

:woo_hoo:

[quote="SeanF"]Actually, aptivaboy asked about an early war Pennsylvania bridge - something I too would be interested in, as I mean to build BB-38 in Pearl Harbor fit. The most obvious difference from Arizona is that she has an extra level on her armored conning tower, and whatever deck variations that would necessitate. Plans shouldn't be too hard to find for pre-war Pennsylvania's superstructure.

- Sean F.[/quote]
So he did! I should be more careful in reading. Done. And, I'd still like to design a late-war conversion, too.
[quote="DavidP"]the reason for 14 turrets is 10 is for the new York class & 4 for the Nevada class. the new york class turrets 1,3 & 5 appear to be good for Nevada's turrets 2 & 3 with the range finders scratch built.[/quote]
David, I'll be designing Nevada class twins probably beginning this weekend after I finish an unrelated design I'm now working on. As you know, the Nevada twin 14-inch/45 gunhouse is similar dimensionally to the New Yorks' but most noticeably has a flat glacis rather than slightly curved. I'll have the Nevada twins ready soon, if you would prefer those.
[quote="amiers"]I don't suppose there would ever be a chance of a dragon 1/350 Scharnhorst to Gneisenau conversion set? just a always wanted wish![/quote]
Of course! In the words of the Terminator, "I have detailed files." Before the dragon kit was released, I began a [i]Gneisenau[/i] scratch-built model in 1/350. It's been on hold since the Dragon kit's release.

I don't suppose there would ever be a chance of a dragon 1/350 Scharnhorst to Gneisenau conversion set? just a always wanted wish!

The Floating Drydock has late war (6/45) plans of Pennsy in their TFW plan series. While I've never seen them, I have to think that if they're equivalent to the other plans in their TFW series, that they'll be fairly accurate. No early war plans, though.

http://floatingdrydock.com/TFW2.htm

Bob

Actually, aptivaboy asked about an early war Pennsylvania bridge - something I too would be interested in, as I mean to build BB-38 in Pearl Harbor fit. The most obvious difference from Arizona is that she has an extra level on her armored conning tower, and whatever deck variations that would necessitate. Plans shouldn't be too hard to find for pre-war Pennsylvania's superstructure.

- Sean F.

[quote="DavidP"]how much would 14 new York turrets cost in 1/426 scale with & without the barrels? what plans of the late war Pennsylvania have you found as I have some?[/quote]
Hi David!
[edit] [color=#0000FF][b]I've rescaled the New York turrets for 1/426 scale with barrels.[/b][/color] They are ready now:

http://www.shapeways.com/shops/model_monkey?section=1%2F426+Ships&s=0

I'll rescale them [b]without[/b] barrels for you no latter than tomorrow morning.[edit]

What mix of New York turrets do you need (lower turrets/superfiring turrets)? Presently, they are grouped to equip one ship (two superfiring turrets with rangefinders and three main deck turrets without rangefinders).

The late-war BB-38 drawings I have are all dubious at best, artists' interpretations, nothing authoritative. None of it agrees. Hope you have much better!

[quote="biggles2"]Do any of your products require sanding surfaces of the edges of the printing layers? How much for a set (4) of 1/700 Arizona turrets? :wave_1:[/quote]

No customer yet has reported that any sanding was necessary. The material option available with the thinnest layers is called "Frosted Extreme Detail". Each layer is just 16 microns thin.

1/700 is ready to go.

Frosted Ultra Detail costs $12.60 for a set of four turrets.
Frosted Extreme Detail costs $14.75 for a set of four turrets.

Do any of your products require sanding surfaces of the edges of the printing layers? How much for a set (4) of 1/700 Arizona turrets? :wave_1:

Thanks!

1941 [i]Pennsy[/i] is done. I would be delighted to design a late-war Pennsy bridge! Like you, I have found no good plans. Maybe Tracy White has found some or could point us to them.

Years ago, Mike Ashey converted a Banner kit to a late-war Pennsy that was featured in FineScale Modeler.

I have Mk.28 Twin Mounts all ready to go, suitable for that conversion. They have been successfully printed. The similar Mk.32 mounts I designed have been printed in 1/192 scale and installed on Fliger747's USS [i]Alaska[/i]:
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=4697&start=280

Any chance of a 1941/42 Pennsy bridge for those of us wanting to convert the 1/350th Arizona into her sister? I had dreams of printing up my own, but I've looked for plans in all of the usual places but found none for that time period.

The turrets look super.


Bob

The design for [color=#0000FF][b]3D-printed USS [i]Arizona[/i] and USS [i]Pennsylvania[/i] turrets[/b][/color] available in several popular scales is complete today. They are available from Shapeways.com. Just go to the Model Monkey store (link follows) and select the scale you are interested in from the left side of the page.

http://www.shapeways.com/shops/Model_Monkey

The turrets can be printed in any scale supported by the printer. If you don't see them in the scale you need, just let me know.

These should be a big help to the 1/700 kits, 1/350 Banner and 1/426 Revell kits as well as the 1/200 Trumpeter kit. They include barrels.

For some scales, it is available in both "Frosted Ultra Detail" and "Frosted Extreme Detail" acrylic plastics. Both are printed in the same acrylic plastic using the same $70k printer but at a different resolution. Ultra is the more economical option of the two and is printed in layers 29 microns thick. Extreme is printed in layers just 16 microns thick producing the best detail possible but is more costly because it takes nearly twice as long to print nearly twice as many layers (time = money).