In response to a question in my WIP thread for Cruiser Zhemchug in 1/700; I thought it may be pertinent to show what I am using for specific purposes.
As I am now 48 yrs old-(!!) -and my close-up eyesight has deteriorated somewhat ( until 4 years ago I did everything with the naked eye--supplemented with an Optivisor
I now wear the Optivisor in conjunction with my reading glasses.
I find the Optivisor indispensable!!! I use a DA-3 and DA-05 lens--it has really sharpened up my modelling.
Attachment:
optivisor.jpg [ 23.43 KiB | Viewed 1720 times ]
Cutting PE.
------------
I do not like blades for cutting PE-- bits fly everywhere and the cut is not always perfect.
I much prefer using high quality scissors with a really good edge--
==> one can 'feel' any protrusions--however slight -- and tune them away-- works best with brass--stainless steel will wear the blades ( albeit I do replace the scissors every 3 months or so--the old ones get demoted to such functions as cutting brass or Nickel silver rod - even stainless steel wire for making masts and yards
The best so far that I have found --cost to blade ratio are the Fiskars embroidery
Attachment:
Fiskars_embroidery.jpg [ 56.41 KiB | Viewed 1720 times ]
For longer runs or cutting railing I use Fiskars needlework
Attachment:
fiskars-needlework-scissors.jpg [ 47.85 KiB | Viewed 1720 times ]
Apropos cutting...
I have always found modelmaking knives and scalpels just too flexible for my liking.-- not enough precision when paring or scoring
I use Stanley blades- hand held in my fingers--rigid and have a good edge--excellent for paring and scraping
Attachment:
stanley-3-11-921-knife-blades-10--943-p.jpg [ 50.57 KiB | Viewed 1720 times ]
- I frequently change to a new blade ( 3-6 blades per session )
as a result I buy them in packs of 100
Attachment:
stanley blades 100 pack.jpg [ 329.6 KiB | Viewed 1720 times ]
No seeing or cutting is any use if one cannot hold the tiny parts
My favourite tweezers are the Swiss made RUBIS-- not cheap at all-(!!) -but oh so precise and sharp!-- no twist and no slipping on the points--alas like their cheaper sisters they also do not like being dropped point down...
Attachment:
Tweezers-Rubis 2.jpg [ 36.93 KiB | Viewed 1720 times ]
Attachment:
Tweezers-Rubis -1.jpg [ 28.92 KiB | Viewed 1720 times ]
Attachment:
precision-tweezers-zoom.jpg [ 15.71 KiB | Viewed 1720 times ]
I have also recently ordered some low stress -to-hold tweezers
Attachment:
Automatic_Tweezer_ATW-5117.jpg [ 49.46 KiB | Viewed 1720 times ]
For handling very soft and delicate GMM Gold-Plus or WEM ultra-fine 1/700 railing I use stamp collectors' tweezers-- this has no sharp contact points and this results in kink and dent free hand-railings
Attachment:
Tweezers stamp collector.jpg [ 6 KiB | Viewed 1720 times ]
For clamping masts or sub-assemblies which are having more bits added I use sprung cross action tweezers...
Attachment:
cross-action tweezres.jpg [ 15.08 KiB | Viewed 1720 times ]
So as to be able to match drill bits to metal rods accurately--or indeed different mast materials etc I find a digital caliper simply indispensable-- they are not expensive now--mine was £ 14.75
Attachment:
digital caliper.jpg [ 108.01 KiB | Viewed 1720 times ]
Apropos masts-- I like using tube wherever possible ( also good for making funnels)I prefer cutting the tubing with a tube cutter--( also useful for creating indents--ie plates on funnels
Attachment:
kstubingcutter.jpg [ 22.62 KiB | Viewed 1720 times ]
I de-burr these with a set of Rifler files
Attachment:
rifler files .jpg [ 37.78 KiB | Viewed 1720 times ]
I use a pushpin to start all portholes--and also mast and vent locations .
Attachment:
Pushpin.jpg [ 157.16 KiB | Viewed 1720 times ]
Having a small indent also means that gluing is made easier--as there is more glue top form a 'plug'.
I often attach non structural parts with wood glue--high grab and dries clear.
Attachment:
white glue wood adhesive.jpg [ 10.03 KiB | Viewed 1720 times ]
In response to a question in my WIP thread for Cruiser Zhemchug in 1/700; I thought it may be pertinent to show what I am using for specific purposes.
As I am now 48 yrs old-(!!) -and my close-up eyesight has deteriorated somewhat ( until 4 years ago I did everything with the naked eye--supplemented with an Optivisor
I now wear the Optivisor in conjunction with my reading glasses.
I find the Optivisor indispensable!!! I use a DA-3 and DA-05 lens--it has really sharpened up my modelling.
[attachment=11]optivisor.jpg[/attachment]
Cutting PE.
------------
I do not like blades for cutting PE-- bits fly everywhere and the cut is not always perfect.
I much prefer using high quality scissors with a really good edge--
==> one can 'feel' any protrusions--however slight -- and tune them away-- works best with brass--stainless steel will wear the blades ( albeit I do replace the scissors every 3 months or so--the old ones get demoted to such functions as cutting brass or Nickel silver rod - even stainless steel wire for making masts and yards
The best so far that I have found --cost to blade ratio are the Fiskars embroidery
[attachment=15]Fiskars_embroidery.jpg[/attachment]
For longer runs or cutting railing I use Fiskars needlework
[attachment=14]fiskars-needlework-scissors.jpg[/attachment]
Apropos cutting...
I have always found modelmaking knives and scalpels just too flexible for my liking.-- not enough precision when paring or scoring
I use Stanley blades- hand held in my fingers--rigid and have a good edge--excellent for paring and scraping
[attachment=7]stanley-3-11-921-knife-blades-10--943-p.jpg[/attachment]
- I frequently change to a new blade ( 3-6 blades per session )
as a result I buy them in packs of 100
[attachment=6]stanley blades 100 pack.jpg[/attachment]
No seeing or cutting is any use if one cannot hold the tiny parts
My favourite tweezers are the Swiss made RUBIS-- not cheap at all-(!!) -but oh so precise and sharp!-- no twist and no slipping on the points--alas like their cheaper sisters they also do not like being dropped point down... :mad_1: :Mad_6:
[attachment=8]Tweezers-Rubis 2.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=9]Tweezers-Rubis -1.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=10]precision-tweezers-zoom.jpg[/attachment]
I have also recently ordered some low stress -to-hold tweezers
[attachment=1]Automatic_Tweezer_ATW-5117.jpg[/attachment]
For handling very soft and delicate GMM Gold-Plus or WEM ultra-fine 1/700 railing I use stamp collectors' tweezers-- this has no sharp contact points and this results in kink and dent free hand-railings
[attachment=4]Tweezers stamp collector.jpg[/attachment]
For clamping masts or sub-assemblies which are having more bits added I use sprung cross action tweezers...
[attachment=0]cross-action tweezres.jpg[/attachment]
So as to be able to match drill bits to metal rods accurately--or indeed different mast materials etc I find a digital caliper simply indispensable-- they are not expensive now--mine was £ 14.75
[attachment=13]digital caliper.jpg[/attachment]
Apropos masts-- I like using tube wherever possible ( also good for making funnels)I prefer cutting the tubing with a tube cutter--( also useful for creating indents--ie plates on funnels
[attachment=12]kstubingcutter.jpg[/attachment]
I de-burr these with a set of Rifler files
[attachment=3]rifler files .jpg[/attachment]
I use a pushpin to start all portholes--and also mast and vent locations .
[attachment=5]Pushpin.jpg[/attachment]
Having a small indent also means that gluing is made easier--as there is more glue top form a 'plug'.
I often attach non structural parts with wood glue--high grab and dries clear.
[attachment=2]white glue wood adhesive.jpg[/attachment]
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