The Ship Model Forum

Actually its both my first model and first time using the fast set glues. Thanks for the response. Thats exactly the info i was looking for. Didnt think to do it in sections. I'll give that a shot.

I hope I don't sound like a smart ass, but is this your first model? Or first time using a thin solvent glue?

The first thing to do is make sure the deck fits into the hull properly. Trim off sprue nubs, clean any flash, sand where needed. make note of where contact points are. If there are large gaps, can they be held closed with tape or clamps? Or filled with plastic strips?

Then, decide how to apply. I think the tamiya glue comes with a brush. Is it the right size? Is it long enough? I use generic solvents, MEK or Methylene Chloride. They can be purchased in bulk at hardware stores or plastic wholesalers for much less than the hobby brands. I put some into a small bottle and use it like the tamiya and other brand stuff. I use regular paint brushes to apply. Medium size to tiny so I can regulate the amount of glue applied. Because of their length, I can also get deep into hidden areas.

One of the things I like about the solvents is the speed. I can align one end of the two parts and touch the brush to the joint. After holding it for a few seconds, I can move a little farther along and add more solvent and hold that spot for a few seconds. I can bend one piece a little to open the crack between them to get more solvent into the joint area and keep working along until I reach the end. As I move along, I can gently squeeze the parts to close the gap, reducing the amount of filling and sanding to make it smooth.

If the parts aren't able to be held and worked bit by bit, then I'll secure with clamps, tape or both and draw the brush along the crack, adding more glue as I go. For a large deck like the battleship, you need to let a fairly sizeable amount of glue flow down into the crack. It also helps to give a little squeeze to make sure you see some soft plastic come up. This ensures good contact between the pieces. Also, don't feel like you have to glue the whole thing in one session, do a few inches and set aside until the next day, then inspect and see if it is holding together. If so, do some more until you're happy.

That's a fair concern. It may help to get some of the thicker variants of the cement, like the orange or white cap versions of the Tamiya. Their thickness helps fill those voids better.

That is how I am applying it, but since there is so much surface area and I can't be for sure it is all in contact I don't know how I would get this glue in place all the way around. I was under the impression this was more for smaller parts. I want to make sure I have complete coverage but I won't really know where the thin glue flows and where I have voids because they are underneath the deck. Maybe I am over thinking it. Thanks for the reply.

How are you applying your Tamiya extra thin? It's meant to flow into the joint AFTER the two parts are physically in place. This means the short working time doesn't matter. This does mean, however, either ensuring the deck fits perfectly into the hull so that all contact points are in actual contact, or that the deck is held down into place with rubber hands and such before applying the glue.

Hey Gang;

New to the forum, new to the hobby. I am starting out my first ship (Tamiya 1/350 USS Missouri) and I am trying to find my way. One issue I am struggling with is what to use to attach the deck to the hull. I have been testing various things on pieces of sprue, but so far nothing seems to be the right answer. I have tried the Tamiya thin cements but the working time is very short. I tried white glue but it does not seem to have a suitable bond. Epoxy has the working time but I am not too sure about the Bond. Apologize if this is a basic question. Any help would be appreciated.