The Ship Model Forum

Magellan has published a new high-resolution 3D view of images of the Titanic.

Fascinating to see the retaining bolts and keel number 401 visible on the starboard propeller.

2 Samples:
Click 2 times for HD.
[url=https://postimg.cc/Dm5SDLYQ][img]https://i.postimg.cc/dtcGh92f/409-FECFA-79-CB-4-A64-8-D2-D-D7661999-FCAF.png[/img][/url]

[url=https://postimg.cc/Wq41jYfG][img]https://i.postimg.cc/kGQ6QkQp/IMG-2588.jpg[/img][/url]

The shade of red in the antifouling?

[url=https://postimg.cc/w3NWQxfd][img]https://i.postimg.cc/ZY71ZC60/Capture-d-e-cran-2024-12-03-a-15-38-00.jpg[/img][/url]

[img]https://markchirnside.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/Article-3bladeDossier-large.jpg[/img]

[url=https://postimg.cc/wRtcM21N][img]https://i.postimg.cc/5ygPPk1s/Capture-d-e-cran-2024-12-03-a-15-53-46.jpg[/img][/url]

[url=https://postimg.cc/vg2tGkZM][img]https://i.postimg.cc/d3wHjKM7/Capture-d-e-cran-2024-12-03-a-15-54-33.jpg[/img][/url]



Titanic Magellan - TT24 High resolution 3D scan of the ship (700,000 photos):

https://www.youtube.com/@Magellan-gg/videos

The first life-size digital scan of the Titanic, which lies 3,800 m deep in the Atlantic, has been creat

Yup, but since your post was a four-year bump I figured it was worth mentioning. :big_grin:

[quote="Tracy White"]There is also a 1/200th Olympic in the wings....[/quote]
IIRC that's been in the works for quite some time.

There is also a 1/200th Olympic in the wings....

HobbyBoss has a 1/700 HMT Olympic, and October will see the release of a 1/700 HMHS Britannic kit!

http://www.hobbyboss.com/index.php?g=home&m=product&a=show&id=1806&l=en

http://www.hobbyboss.com/index.php?g=home&m=article&a=show&id=263&l=en

[quote="chuck"]Is anyone interested in doing the trumpeter 1/200 kit as the Olympic instead of the Titanic?

I always thought Olympic was a better looking ship with even rectangular windows on the B deck, and uniform open sides for the promenade on A deck. Titanic and Olympic’s uneven windows on the B deck and half enclosed A deck looks too fussy.[/quote]

Hi Chuck and everyone else;

I [i]absolutely[/i] plan on doing this big model as Olympic, as much as I admire and appreciate Titanic and her tragic story, equally compelling to me is the great success RMS Olympic enjoyed over her career. So my plan is to indeed use the amazing Trumpeter 1/200 Titanic kit as a basis for conversion to Olympic, in her civilian dress, I just haven’t settled on what year to represent yet. Definitely post 1912, with the full complement of lifeboats, as that is the most visually distinguishing characteristic IMHO. My plan is to laser-cut new A- and B-deck walls from acrylic, which will help with the flush glazing, but I haven’t started drawing them out yet. Soon, though, for sure.

I’ve only just joined here, so may I add my appreciation to you all for your collective expertise and commitment to accuracy and detail, and above all for sharing your amazing work and knowledge. I look forward to taking part in these hearty discussions. Thanks very much;

James

If it's Britannic as sunk I might even be willing to accept having an extra Titanic model again!

This is awesome news that Minicraft is FINALLY releasing their [i]Olympic[/i] kit! Here's hoping [i]Britannic[/i] will follow in the next couple years!

[quote="Dan K"]I certainly understand the desire to adhere closely to accuracy. Yet, in this particular instance, it would seem to be self-defeating, no?[/quote]

Well, a lot depends on "intent" for me, a lot of the enjoyment of a build and researching is learning about the ship. I had read tons on Titanic in the past, but this is giving me a new frame work to base studies on. Chuck's question is also of interest to me because I'd seen plenty of MODERN cruise ships, but how did an ocean liner look at night 110 years ago?

I'm less concerned with the problem of lights being to dim during the day because I plan on using a microcontroller (Arduino and maybe a Raspberry Pi with....) anyway and I can control brightness with it. I plan on having certain rooms turn on and off, but also having a "day mode" and a "night mode" for light brightness so that I can display it during the day and people can see the lights and perhaps benefit from having them on the promenade deck, etc., but then have it on in a room at night and have a display that isn't blinding....

Seeking photos or authoritative drawings of the tops of funnels # 1, 2 or 3, view downwards from above, into the funnel interior, showing interior structure and funnel top grills. Have photos of funnel 4.

Any help is hugely appreciated.

This is for a project to be offered in 1/350 and 1/400 scales. Here is one of four parts of that project, the design for funnel # 2 at 50% complete.

[quote="Dan K"]I certainly understand the desire to adhere closely to accuracy. Yet, in this particular instance, it would seem to be self-defeating, no?[/quote]


nonetheless, I am inclined to make it accurate so it looks good in a darkened room. just have to look at the unlit version if one wish to look it during daylight

I certainly understand the desire to adhere closely to accuracy. Yet, in this particular instance, it would seem to be self-defeating, no?

Another thing I am struggling to decide is whether to represent the lights in the titanic with scale appropriate brightness. Early 20th century lighting is not nearly as intense as we are accustomed to. Even well lit spaces For that era may be regarded as somewhat dimly lit by our standard. Certainly if you light the ship to appropriate brightness, you ought not to be able to even see the portholes as being lit if you look at in during daylight in a well lit room.

With scale appropriate brightness, the lighting on the ship ought to really only be clearly visible in a darkened room.

I am tore between making the ship look good at times when it is likely to be seen, and being accurate.

I haven't fully decided yet. There's a part of me that wants to do a couple of different modes - one being "all lights" but what most appeals is something based on the above but with some that turn on and off somewhat randomly just for variety. I have yet to sit down and see how many different "circuits" I would need to do that effectively without having a bunch close enough together that they were seen changing at the same time. I figure 4-5 circuits at least with each one controlling one light with fiber optics to multiple sides.

But final determination is on hold until I learn more about the actual "full" lighting rig on the ship and how much work it's going to be to wire and fiber everything up. I was happy to discover earlier today that [url=http://www.titanic-cad-plans.com/]Titanic-CAD-Plans.com[/url] had answers for two of my questions in PDF format [url=http://www.titanic-cad-plans.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/A-Deck-Underside-2.pdf]here[/url] and [url=http://www.titanic-cad-plans.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Boat-Deck-Beams.pdf]here[/url] (regarding the lights on the promenade decks and what they might actually look like).

Lots of really esoteric research left to do - surprisingly more involved than anticipated.

Are you going to keep some portholes dark,permanently?


I plan to use a set of slider DIP switches to control 8 LEDs. Each of these 8 LEDs will be fed into A different collection of portholes via fiber optic bundle attached to it. Buy turning on different combinations of these 8 LEDs, basically and unlimited pattern of which windows gets lit can be reproduced.

Here's something I've been pecking away at for the last month - a map / plan of portholes and windows that would have been "active" at various times in order to potentially have a decent, accurate rendition of what Titanic looked like at the time of the collision as well as during her sinking.

I started with the [url=https://www.encyclopedia-titanica.org/titanic-deckplans/]deck plans[/url] available from [url=https://www.encyclopedia-titanica.org/]Encyclopedia-Titanica.org[/url] for £5 and then their [url=https://www.encyclopedia-titanica.org/cabins.html]Cabin Allocations list[/url]. This contains very little for Third class so the lower decks are certainly inaccurate/under represented, but it does also show that significant portions of the upper deck levels would not have had lit up windows or portholes after the sun went down.

Next step is to add to this with the large rooms (dining, smoking, etc.) that would have created large blocks of lit or dark portholes as well as one-off hallways and other random items.

I suspect most people who buys an 1/350 Olympic intends to build the dazzle camo troop transport version. Olympic the liner was just not that well known compared to Normandie, Queen Mary, or Titanic.

AFAIK the only change from Olympic the liner to Olympic the troop transport with dazzle camo is the addition of several 6” guns. But Olympic the liner in 1914 had full row of life boats along her boat deck, unlike her comfiguration in 1911-12. What is more, the New boats added in the middle between the forward And rear groupS of Original boats she carried before sinking of titanic were shorter and smaller than the oriGinal lifeboats she still carried. Also new electric winches were added to work the lifeboats davits.

The most obvious difference between titanic 1912 and Olympic 1911 is promenade deck on the Olympic was open along its whole length, but closed off in the front 40% on the titanic, Academy seems to have captured that. But the arrangement of open rear portion and side windows on the B deck is totally different. Titanic had cabins And small private Enclosed promenades behind these windows, the Olympic had wide enclosed Full length promenade. Also the shape of the bridge and deck houses on the boat deck are different. Wonder if academy captured that.

If they'd done WWI Dazzle I would have thought about it.

1913 guise would have required more changes from the original titanic molds.

Nice catch, Dan - someone had noted earlier Minicraft removed the Olympic from their website that I had linked to in the Upcoming Releases thread, and I was about to delete the entry. Glad I didn't, and that the project is moving forward (albeit for a 1911 guise instead of the original 1913).