The Ship Model Forum

does anyone know where you can get realistic signal flags and nation flags at 1/200 scale for this ship project?

Wilhelm I have to ask did your photo etch arrive from http://www.modellschlachtschiffe.de at all. I ordered stuff from Florian and have not seen any it of almost a year later.......... I have no goods he doesn't reply to emails and he is richer 165 euro........... I wouldn't be recommending this guy to NO ONE

Thank you for the help!! :wave_1:

As far as I know, the only set with all or most of the colors for the Bismarck is the Lifecolor set #1 (CS-09) and they are acrylic. If you don't mind enamels, White Ensign makes the colors in their Colourcoats brand of paints. This line of paints as far as I can tell are the most accurate. I am not aware of any other brands that have the Kriegsmarine colors but I may be wrong.They have a page on their website that list all of the Colourcoats colors you would need to paint the Bismarck and other famous warships like Arizona, Yamato etc... Below is the color call outs for Bismarck that I copied and pasted from W.E.M. website. HTH, Jon

BISMARCK



Wood decks—Teak (C 01);



Prior to final sortie



Hull—Dunkelgrau 51 (KM 02), with dark panels Dunkelgrau 2 (KM 06) at bow and stern;

Superstructure—Hellgrau 50 (KM 01);

Turret roofs & other horizontal surfaces except steel decks—Dunkelgrau 2 (KM 06);

Steel decks, and boot-topping—Schiffsbodenfarbe III Grau 1 (KM 05);

Wood decks—Teak (C 01);

Funnel cap—Aluminiumbronze (C 04);

Underwater hull—Schiffsbodenfarbe III Rot 5 (KM 04);

Stripes on the hull and superstructure—Black (C 02) & White (C 03);

False bow and stern waves—White (C 03);

Mahogany on ship’s boats—Mahogany ( US 15);

Underwater hulls on ship’s boats—Schiffsbodenfarbe III Grau 1 (KM 05) or possibly Black (C 02).



Sortie



As above, but no dark panels (KM 06) at bow & stern, no false stern wave, no black & white stripes.



As sunk



Turret roofs had been repainted yellow Deckfarbe Gelb—use (ACJ 19).





Arado Ar-196

Upper surfaces—RLM 72 Grün (ACLW 04), RLM 73 Grün (ACLW 05);
Lower surfaces—RLM 65 Hellblau (ACLW 03)

:smallsmile: I have read the previous posts and, while the welding topic is interesting I have a couple of questions for you experienced modelers. Where would be a good source of color photos for someone just starting to collect information and documents to start this model? Also, does anyone sell a complete paint set for it or do you have to buy the paint based on the instructions in the kit?

Looks great1 :-)

Due to insane professional demands, my build creeps slowly forward. As an attorney-friend once said I'm "moving at the speed of lice!"

I set my Bismarck hull aside while I await arrival of the "Kuhlenwassereinlaesse" gratings for the lower hull.

There are a lot of components to build in this kit, so I bought several compartmentalized storage boxes from Hobby Lobby in which I can store the various assembled components...and hopefully locate them again when needed.

I started building the 38 cm turrets. It's pretty straightforward, but my eyesight is not as good as it once was and my hands not quite as steady as they once were when handling tiny photoetch parts. This is going to demand some time and willpower to get through! Anyway, here are some photos of my progressing turret builds.

"Anton" has completed photoetching and is wearing Tamiya Fine Gray Primer.

thanks - my DX pack turned up today, will work through the instructions with care !

ta
neil

CAUTION: SERIOUS ERROR ON KA-MODELS Mk 1-DX PACK PHOTOETCH INSTRUCTIONS

The Mk 1-DX Pack would have benefitted from better packaging to protect contents, and better instructions (a booklet, perhaps). As it is, the instructions are a series of small color photos on four pages with international "symbol" type instructions.

I've now posted a photo of the instruction error. Looking at your Mk-1 instructions and patts Z1 and Z2 of the Trumpeter kit and you'll understand!

DANGER! WRONG INSTRUCTION! In the Mk-1 Dx Pack instructions, there is a small photo showing two of the kit's major superstructure parts labeled "Z-1" and "Z-2" in the same photo. This little photo/instruction suggests that you should cut away four (4) AA platforms on Z-1 and four (4) more AA platforms on Z-2. Both parts are labeled with their kit number and a symbol indicates "repeat on both sides."

THE ERROR IS THAT BOTH MAJOR KIT SUPERSTRUCTURE PARTS IN THE PHOTO SHOULD BE LABELED "Z-2" ONLY! "Z-1" SHOULD NOT BE CUT AT ALL!!!

In other words, you only want to remove part of the four AFT AA PLATFORMS (Z-2), and replace the trimmed away portions with photoetch from Mk-1 Fret F. The AFT platforms will then end up having an applied wood deck, with a "steel rim" around the four AFT AA platforms.

The FORWARD AA platforms are Trumpeter kit styrene "steel treadplate," and apparently Mk-1 did not intend to alter those. Various Mk-1 instruction photos show the FORWARD AA guns sitting on the Trumpeter PLASTIC "steel treadplate" deck. THERE ARE NO PHOTOETCH PARTS INCLUDED FOR THESE FORWARD CIRCULAR AA DECKS!

WORST CASE SCENARIO: Blindly following the mislabeled Mk-1 photo, the builder will trim EIGHT AA platforms total, wrongly including the four forward ones on Trumpeter 1/200 Bismarck kit part Z-1 !!! THIS WILL CREATE A MAJOR, UNNECESSARY, AND DISAPPOINTING ERROR IN YOUR BUILD!

Thankfully, I was spared from making this error...but I want to share the discovered problem with everyone who is using the misprinted Mk-1 Dx pack instruction before it is too late for you!

DON'T CUT THE AA PLATFORMS ON FORWARD PART "Z-1" AT ALL....or you'll be sorreeeeeeeeeeeey!!!

"It's stain."

Thanks, Herr Nillson!

[quote="Wilhelm"][quote="109"]Hi Bill,

I know the picture and to me it seems to be misleading due to the soft edged stains around the stern. The MES was very sharp and crisp in appearance, while the stains are very softedged. The MES should be parallel to the lower edge of the stern armour belt and ends at frame 10.5. That´s my knowledge ...

Bye! :wave_1:[/quote]

Hallo Bernd:

Thanks again for your input about the MES. Interestingly, your description of the MES layout beginning at frame 10.5 and ending aft of the cluses is perfect for Prinz Eugen, although the MES on Prinz Eugen was well above the waterline where it is easily seen, not on the lower boot top as with Bismarck. I believe Prinz Eugen was completed about two weeks before Bismarck, and obviously, the two ships had much in common.

Regarding the photo, I enlarged it 300 % and looked along those controversial "stain lines." There does appear to be a cable-like structure beginning just under the first drain hole, and running forward. Might be frame 10.5 and might be the MES. What do you think?

Bill :wave_1:[/quote]


It's stain.

[img]http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l503/Herr_Nilsson/Stain_zps76c458a5.jpg[/img]

[quote="Wilhelm"]Sometimes speaking German is helpful...as when building a model of a German warship!

I found this GREAT German website for 1/200 German Navy builders. There is a lot available here, including those 1/200 photoetch gratings you need for the cooling water inlets in the Bismarck hull!

http://www.modellschlachtschiffe.de

As you navigate around the site, you can't help learning some rudimentary German. For example "Rumpf" means "hull" and "Rumpfzubehor" means "hull accessories." The 1/200 Bismarck photoetch "Kühlwassereinlässe" (cooling water inlets) are listed under "Rumpfzubehor."

The owner, Florian Hafemann, states emphatically "No PayPal." He requests "Bankueberweisung" (Bank Transfer) as payment which is commonplace in the EU, but horribly expensive (prohibitive) from the USA.

I wrote a VERY respectful E-mail letter to his "Contact" page in formal German, pleading my case for a PayPal purchase, and he agreed. I'd suggest a similar, very respectful approach, if you can only write English.

He cites 4-6 weeks for delivery (Herr Hafemann explains things are painstakingly produced in small production runs) and shipping cost is EU 15,00 (about USD $20.00) for a small package of several items. Postage to and from Europe IS expensive. :wave_1:[/quote]


Or.. just hit the english language button on his site. I ordered some stuff from him on Friday, am currently waiting for the payment request.

The cost of postage in Europe is rediculous. I recently bought my 1/200 Arizona from China, it cost £28 P+P. It would probably cost over £100 to send the kit out of the UK!! the most frustrating part is... the same Royal mail/Parcel Force people deal with it either way!!

Sometimes speaking German is helpful...as when building a model of a German warship!

I found this GREAT German website for 1/200 German Navy builders. There is a lot available here, including those 1/200 photoetch gratings you need for the cooling water inlets in the Bismarck hull!

http://www.modellschlachtschiffe.de

As you navigate around the site, you can't help learning some rudimentary German. For example "Rumpf" means "hull" and "Rumpfzubehor" means "hull accessories." The 1/200 Bismarck photoetch "Kühlwassereinlässe" (cooling water inlets) are listed under "Rumpfzubehor."

The owner, Florian Hafemann, states emphatically "No PayPal." He requests "Bankueberweisung" (Bank Transfer) as payment which is commonplace in the EU, but horribly expensive (prohibitive) from the USA.

I wrote a VERY respectful E-mail letter to his "Contact" page in formal German, pleading my case for a PayPal purchase, and he agreed. I'd suggest a similar, very respectful approach, if you can only write English.

He cites 4-6 weeks for delivery (Herr Hafemann explains things are painstakingly produced in small production runs) and shipping cost is EU 15,00 (about USD $20.00) for a small package of several items. Postage to and from Europe IS expensive. :wave_1:

[quote="Channell"]Good idea for the base, I might have to use that idea in the future!

My only suggestion is that you permanently attach the butterfly nut on the inside of the hull somehow... someday you might need to take the Bissy off her stand. You never know when Murphy's law will decide to come into play. [img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn124/Coisox/Smiley/PNG%20-%20Nite%20Hax/thumbsup.png[/img][/quote]

Yes, Jason:

That's precisely what I'm suggesting. If the "toggle" or "butterfly nut" is precisely (AND PERMANENTLY) fixed above the mounting hole in the plastic hull, it can be found again anytime you might want to change stands. In my case, the initial, "work stand" will be a scrap plank with a couple of of 3 inch lengths of PVC supporting the hull.

When the model is complete, the work stand will be switched to the brass pedestals, finished display base, and matching case. This operation will only be possible if the "butterflies" are precisely and permanently fixed inside the hull. I plan to do that using some pieces of square styrene beam, reinforced with some liquid epoxy poured over the ends of the butterflies. :wave_1:

MES

Hi,

You could be right, but frame 10.5 is further to the left.

Bye.

Good idea for the base, I might have to use that idea in the future!

My only suggestion is that you permanently attach the butterfly nut on the inside of the hull somehow... someday you might need to take the Bissy off her stand. You never know when Murphy's law will decide to come into play. [img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn124/Coisox/Smiley/PNG%20-%20Nite%20Hax/thumbsup.png[/img]

BRASS PEDESTALS FOR MOUNTING BISMARCK

My strategic approach to the hull of this static 1/200 Trumpeter Bismarck build is:

1.) Do all of the "heavy handling," i.e. sanding, cutting, and filing, and more sanding and filling first. Unfortunately, there is a lot of handling involved with this big hull.
2.) Apply the photoetch, gluing photoetch to bare plastic for best adhesion...BUT, NOW HANDLING THE HULL BECOMES A DELICATE MATTER! Think of all the work you will have put into those scuttles and little brass foot and hand rungs on the stern!
3.) Prime and paint the hull. Even this requires thought, as you won't want to apply any tape over that photoetch!
4.) NOW, get your paws off the "finished" hull! That means fastening the hull either to a work-plank or to the finished display plank (which you would need to protect from paint and glue while working on the superstructure).

I'm still on Step 1. Am awaiting some photoetch parts from Germany before proceeding with some more hull cutting, filing, gluing, etc. In the meantime, I decided to approach Step 4...developing a stand for the model.

Most comercially available brass pedestals for ship models are too small for this big kit...so you have to be inventive! I thought it would be cool to mount the ship on some empty brass 30 mm cannon casings, but my local Army-Navy surplus store didn't have any. Besides, they would have required a ton of drilling, polishing, and finishing to look nice.

Instead, I purchased a brass finish towel bar at my local Home Depot. The bar holders, which are designed to mount on a wall are to become my brass pedestals. Using a hacksaw, I carefully cut the ball fitting off the top of the holder. Now, I have a pedestal in-the-rough, about 2 3/4 inches tall. Then I drilled 1/4 inch holes through the pedestal to accomodate my 3/8 inch X 4 inch bolts, which will pass through 3/8 inch holes in the keel to mate with "toggles" pre-mounted inside the hull. The "toggles" distribute the pull of the screws as they are tightened, so the plastic hull won't crack. I may reinforce the plastic where the toggles contact the hull interior with some sheet styrene. The 4 inch bolt length leaves plenty of room for a 1/2 inch work plank or finished display plank.

There will be a brass washer on top of the final mounted pedestal with a felt washer snugged against the exterior model.

For a work stand, I may use two 2 - 3 inch lengths of PVC as work "pedestals"

Note: You can easily switch from the work plank to the finished display plank, as long as the toggles are securely fixed inside the hull and properly aligned with the holes in the keel when you go looking for them at model mounting time. :wave_1:

[quote="109"]Hi Bill,

I know the picture and to me it seems to be misleading due to the soft edged stains around the stern. The MES was very sharp and crisp in appearance, while the stains are very softedged. The MES should be parallel to the lower edge of the stern armour belt and ends at frame 10.5. That´s my knowledge ...

Bye! :wave_1:[/quote]

Hallo Bernd:

Thanks again for your input about the MES. Interestingly, your description of the MES layout beginning at frame 10.5 and ending aft of the cluses is perfect for Prinz Eugen, although the MES on Prinz Eugen was well above the waterline where it is easily seen, not on the lower boot top as with Bismarck. I believe Prinz Eugen was completed about two weeks before Bismarck, and obviously, the two ships had much in common.

Regarding the photo, I enlarged it 300 % and looked along those controversial "stain lines." There does appear to be a cable-like structure beginning just under the first drain hole, and running forward. Might be frame 10.5 and might be the MES. What do you think?

Bill :wave_1:

Hi Bill,

I know the picture and to me it seems to be misleading due to the soft edged stains around the stern. The MES was very sharp and crisp in appearance, while the stains are very softedged. The MES should be parallel to the lower edge of the stern armour belt and ends at frame 10.5. That´s my knowledge ...

Bye! :wave_1:

Dear Bernd:

With respect to the bow, after reexamining the few photos available to me, I think you are correct. Should be an easy fix to trim the MES back to the rear of the cluses port and starboard. Thanks!

With respect to the stern, look at the attached photo. Isn't the lighter, bulging line curving around the stern the MES?