The Ship Model Forum

Great work on the photo-etch!

Excellent work, now I am starting to understand the differences vs the one I will assemble, the 1939 version.

marco

I finished working on allmost all pe and subassemblies that i can do before starting painting.
The upper deck of the superstructure railing has some complex shapes but all not rounded bend locations are etched which makes it quite easy to work with. My only remark is that you have to be very carefull and glue it to the very edge of the plastic part, otherwise the railing will be too long and and it won't match the bends and curves of the deck.
The only real challenge here requiring some thinking and preplanning is the fact that the deck interlock with superstructure part in a way where some of the railing rests on the big superstructure part on not on the deck itself. In the front i just glue it to the deck because it has enough contact area in the middle and on the sides to make it secure and maintain the shape of the railing.
With the back section i decided to cut the railing in place where superstrucutre and deck meet, when the parts are put togeather it's almost impossible to notice and can be tweaked with gentle bending if nescessery.

Next time i will come back with all the funnels, military masts and superstructure sub assemblies which are done already.

Thanks I actually noticed that the torpedo tube door was actually included in the kit and i must have missed it but the piece of i used has more pronounced hinge compared to the kit part which is compleatly flat and more simplified.

Looking great! love small details like the rudder and bow torpedo door. Superstructure and those 88 are flawless. Excellent work so far, i'll be following this thread.
Regards,
SG

I am cutting and cleaning various small parts and ship boats so there is nothing to show now,btw sprue gates on some tiny parts are enormous. After that i wil start working on pe and sub assemblies.
So in meanwhile let's talk about colors. I am thinking about tamiya light blue with maby some medium blue (if i need to darken it a bit) for the hull and tamiya sky mixed with JN Grey (sky seems too intense but JN grey is greenish light grey so it should give a nice balance) + maby some white to lighten it. For turret roofs and some other horizontal surfaces i am going to use dark grey i think. For linoleum decks i tend to use nato (god forgive me for uttering this cursed name) brown, official linoleum brown i find to be too dark.

Excellent start!

Bow torpedo tube flap, it was hard to get the camera to focus for some reason.
I also finished all the 88mm guns, testfit on the ship in the photo.

Thanks!
Yeah, it's shockingly bare in terms of detail in some places compared to previous Trumpeter pre drednoughts like Tsesarevich (this one has detailed hull/armor plating etc.) or Lord Nelson which has lower hull plating fully depicted, Danton was kinda bare too actually comparable to Schleswig, maby bit better.
As far as their other recen kits go, drednought in this case Virivus Unitis is a very detailed kit.

However adding detail is pretty satisfying, this was my first time adding plasticard armor and scribing or adding pe portholes but it actually went much better than i expected considering my experience which is not that great yet.

I am adding the bow torpedo tube hatch now (as shown in the photos), i found suitable pe part in my leftovers box that should do the part.

Kind of interesting that this is new kit, yet needs a fair amount of super detailing in plastic on the hull!

Nice job!

Thanks!
I ve added the portholes to the superstructure. I ve sanded the back of pe fret and used tamiya extra thin to glue them after placing them on the model. First time i used this technique but the bond seems quite strong especially if you gently push the pe into the plastic and there is alot of time to correct the placement if needed.

Going very well! The changes and additions you made seem to be very relevant and turn the kit into a next level model.

I ve filled the 2 holes on each turret roof which are there for a part that shouldn't exist in 1908 and isntalled all the metal barrels.
This is a dry fit of all major parts. I have also feathered the end of the bow armor belt.
As you can see the portholes are just plain holes without any details so i am going to use this pe set.
Lastly this is the WoodHunter deck i mentioned earlier.

Scratchbuild compleate!
The armor and rudder are done.

Thanks!

I added ribs to the rudder based on this photo. I used 0.5 mm hexagonal rod.

I have also remade the fore and aft belts to be a bit longer, made a pair of each for both sides. I still have to to the other main belt piece and i am thinking about redoing the first one also to make the main belt part a bit wider, it's about 0.5 mm narrower than the strips i use for aft and fore belts.

Thanks.
The sides have no detail, they are just smooth and boring. Portholes are just a holes too. Pretty disapointing compared to Tsesarevich or Lord Nelson by Trump/HB which have very detailed hulls.

Now that i am looking back at the photos i made i think i will make the forward belt a litle bit longer but still shorter than the bow becasue it curves a bit at the end so it may be hard to get the plastic strip fit flush. Also the main belt in the middle section came out a bit narrower than the strips fore and aft, i didnt include enough extra width to make up for the scribing lines but i think i will just have to live with it.

Nice start. Is the armor wrong for both versions of the kit?

Hello
I begun working on this ship a while ago.

Aftermarket parts i got for it:
Master barrels
Woodhunter deck
Shipyard portholes

Scratch built some armor using 0.5mm plastic plate and 0.5 x 4mm strips and Tamiya Scriber II and Mig scribing tape. Dry fitted as can be seen in the pictures.
Next step will be replicating it for the other side and adding detail to the rudder which i will probably do next and show in the fallow up post.