The Ship Model Forum

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I do not seal the bare wood shingles. I paint each one with thin washes of gray flat acrylic and let it soak in. Be sure to let some of the underlying wood grain show through.Finish with chalk pastels,brown, gray, black etc..The pastels will stick because of the rough surface but you could use a spray matte fixative if you want as a sealer.
Mine are going in glass cases so I don't bother with the final step,besides the acrylic gray paint acts as a sealer itself.

99% of my stuff is done with hand tools.On occasion I will use a belt sander or a rotary burr to save some time on hand sanding but even these tools are not really necessary.
Scratch building is easy and cheap to do once you get used to used to working with the materials.

Hi ! I am sure that there are lots of mistakes but to the ordinary modeler it looks OK.Thanks for the heads up ! just call it artistic license.

This pic is pretty much self-explanatory.I made my roof with tongue depressors although for the smaller scales coffee stir stiks would work just as well.

John, I have admired your picture stories for a long time, but you need to read up on brickwork, it may only stand out to some one like me, a time served bricklayer for 58 years.

Note:

I can see now that the way I started this thread can be confusing (damn it confuses me) It was meant to help me save time as I post my stuff to 26 different sites,aircraft,ships,cars,RR ,Art , etc..... I have finally learned how to post a pic and text together which helps a lot.
Instead, from now on I will now post pics and text together.Once in awhile I will post a thumbnail which will take you directly to other pics of interest on the that topic .
Sorry bout that ,ya gotta have patience with me as I am 71 now and not all that familiar with computers.

Wow, that looks very real!

I wanted something different for the garage panel so I thought that some old siding might do the trick.Another wall of bricks would be boring and besides I wanted to try something new.
There are a number of manufacturers of crackle paints out there and they are usually found in craft or art stores.Each has its own instructions and they do vary a bit.I am doing this in 1/16th scale so I want fairly large cracks,for the smaller scales I would recommend a bit of experimentation.My intention here was to make the garage look like an old converted horse stable.I tried to build a little history into the wall to reflect this.The upstairs window has been converted from a hay loft opening to what looks more like the other windows.
The siding in this case is tongue depressors laid one over the other starting at the bottom.I used already crackled boards for this and finished the wall with pastels after it all was in place.The texture on the boards is a little heavy and the shading not yet too subtle(it has been changed since this pic was taken)Sometimes you have to take a little artistic license when doing finishing on a piece for display.Do it too subtle and the viewer can't see it standing behind a glass case,do it rough and it looks overdone when viewed close up with a camera.

very interesting thread John!!


Jim Baumann

Here I have placed the panels in such a way as to catch the setting sun.The amount of relief on the brick depends upon the angle of the light shining on the brick.Just the brickwork on this diorama took 3 months working on it just about everyday

The sill is made with a square piece of wood to which glue was applied and then rolled in sand.The header was made in the fashion of the day.It is nice to work a bit of design and color into a wall this large.Check your references for ideas.

A good modeling bud of mine has done a great picture tutorial on window making.See my albums "KH pics".
Unfortunately I haven't had time to put the text and the proper pic to go with it in order however the pics themselves are pretty much self-explanitory.

These are old style hand made bricks that were made in molds but were not always the exact same size or shape.The gray blocks are limestone.
This is an early piece of work when I had lots yet to learn about bricks walls.I am happy with the amount of relief given by this thickness of watercolor paper.The color of the mortar between the bricks is another story.I would now suggest that you paint the foamboard nimbus gray before laying any bricks at all.The limestone blocks were done this way.
I incorrectly thought that I might save some time by putting on the first coat of paint after gluing on the bricks to the foamboard.Actually there is no simple way to do it .Each brick must be painted by hand one by one.Do not use an airbrush for this operation.The surface and all four edges must be covered and be super careful not to get any glue on the paper as it will stick out like a sore thumb.
I use a soft round brush for this and a paint called JoSonja gouache acrylic that dries absolutely flat ( no shine) .It is called gold oxide.This first coat of paint will become the lightest shade on your finished wall,unless of course you choose to darken it later.When applying your paint strive for even coats otherwise you will end up with blotches.Water color paper is not very forgiving of mistakes in this regard.
Try to think of each wall as you would a painting and make it interesting for the viewers eye and that means do not try to be too perfect.Vary the mortar thickness as well as the point where the edges of the bricks meet. etc....
Every wall has a history,so try to build some of that into your wall.They all weather differently,are modified over time ,as well as used for advertising.For dioramas they can be essential for helping tell your story.

Windows 1 : Window framing from outside.In this case the frame edge is level with the face of the foamboard.

Bricks 1 : Horizontal,level lines are now added on to the foamboard as a guide for keeping our bricks straight.

Bricks 2 : Watercolor paper can be picked up at any art store.Get a good quality paper,thick enough to give your bricks some relief.

Bricks 3 :A very handy tool for cutting out bricks.You could use a steel ruler and blade but this is so much quicker.

Cutouts: save all cutouts for patching if required.(We all change our mind on occasion) number each one and indicate the the inside or outside ,up or down for a perfect re-alignment.Glue in the patch or tape it over and start again.

Framing of windows and doors:as you can see I have made lots of adjustments to get the framing of this window to line up properly.The width of the board you use will depend on the finished overall thickness of your wall and whether or not you want it flush with the outside.I usually leave the board a little bit above surface level and finish up by fitting the bricks around the frame of the door or window.

This pic requires some text so I posted it here but it can also be found in my photobucket if required.


Sorry about the quality of the pic but it will give you an idea of what I am talking about.

Dimensions change a lot depending on the era that you are modeling.Doors,windows,ceiling heights,thickness of floors between each story will vary as well.All of this must be reflected in your facade for it to look correct.A little research on this may be in order.Be especially careful about sill and header heights above floor level.Victorian buildings had narrow doors and the windows, while in proportion, where very high.
Because in this particular case it represents row housing, kitchen windows with the bathrooms above placed side by side with the next unit were designed for easy plumbing and electricity routes.Shared chimneys for stoves were also quite common.
Here we are just providing for overall dimensions,styles of doors and windows will come later.

Once Upon a time.........Static facades for layouts and dioramas by JohnReid

My photobucket:

http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/



I quit drinking beer because the download was taking longer than the upload !