The Ship Model Forum

Just to answer Z - historically, single 25mm AA really were not added to IJN ships until very late 1943 onward and truthfully, mid 1944 is the real start of their proliferation.

You really would not see it on a Kagero Class (Yukikaze) without the removal of X turret.

OTOH, you wuld see them on a Yugumo class, as those did not have X turret removed. Unfortunately, the PitRoad 1/350 Yugumo is terribly inaccurate; they had planned to issue the kit as a Kagero but were beaten to the punch so, they retoooled some parts to make it a Yugumo but it's a really poor effort. Lots of correcting needed.

Beside the fact that i really like your model, please allow me some remarks and suggestions for your next project.
I have to confess that i can not agree with every post regarding the weathering stated above.
But i would not go so far like the chinese guy and call it a lack of skill. I rather would prefer to say there is more potential.

The construction of the "canvas", the model itself, seems to be quite clean and neat. My respect for that!
Also the paint job it self aint bad.
The weathering however is not as good as the model actually is.
You know what the funny thing is? You can correct that spread easy.

Filter it.
Take some of the base colour grey and thin it down to 60/70Thinner 40/30Colour.
Apply a mist of that mixture very careful over all of that, way to prominent, rust streaks.
Start it near the waterline and work you way towards the deck.
The reason for doing it that way is to shorten the sheer lenght of the sreaks.
Reduce the effect of the streaks, blend them into the hull colour.

Ad more tones/shades.
After reducing the effect dramtically with the grey acrylic filter, go for more variation.
Consider about buff, bright grey, off white, white, blue, dark blue,dark grey and black oil colors.
Orange, green and sometimes yellow can be great to, but the use of these is a little advanced, maybe.
So you better focus on the first few colors.
Slightly wet the hull with a turpentinoide thinner. Paint some small dots of each color random over the entire hull.
At the deck/hull joint, put some more dots and focus on brown, black and buff at this particular point.
Take a slightly dampened (turpentinoide) chisel brush (upright) and move from up to down, and spread the oil colours until you
get a upright streaky pattern. Dont be shy because:

Blend everything into each other
Apply a final mist of the basecolor (or some variation of it). consistent or random, over the now filtered areas until
you have a result you like.
If you like, you can ad some upright streaks with the gun as well.
If you dislike, apply the belnding coat until everything almost vanished.


Now you should have a decent weathered hull with a certain amount of depth in the colour coat.
Feel free to ad some rusty streaks again using brownish tones onto the appropriate areas (and only there) such
as anchor-zones near the bow and similar.

Take your time, and always consider:
The less sometimes is more!

That would be my approach.

IMPORTANT NOTE:
Please note that all the things mentioned are only valid with acrylic colours (Gunze, Tamiya)
in combination with Oil colors and turpentinoide thinners.

Need some inspiration?
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html
Andrew Ayling´s 350th scale Leander class cruiser "HMS Ajax", scratchbuilt.
Andrew is using this style quite balanced. Kostas Katseas is also very inspiring.
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html


BR

LX

Hey, that's a mean-looking boat you have there Hj1945;0) A thing of beauty and fascination; a ship like that-just one; would be the defining feature on any wall. Not everyone looks at a tank/car/plane...but EVERYONE looks at a nice ship model. Maybe it has something to do with them being survival cell, or allowing the imagination free-play, as you can imagine yourself clambering all over them...who knows. Nice work on the footrails too. To my mind...the latter reason [imaginative freeplay]; is why I consider footrails to be the single most important detail on a 1/350 ship. They really go such a long way to expressing the true scale of a ship. They make it look bigger.

Forgive my tangents [I'm a waffler], I have a question, which perhaps Dan, or someone knows...I'm just starting a ship collection (having previously mainly done 1/35th armour, I now have; 2 1/350 type vii u-boats [an a, and c-41-Hobbyboss, and AFV club, respectively], and a type B Jap sub [AFV club] up to airbrush stage-I want to set these in a rectangle of resin like a scorpion), a Dragon Buchannon on the slips [awesome kit, maybe even a little better than their Panther D and Abrams D-which I've built]-done 70% of the footrails...reckon it'll only get easier from then on, and a Trumpeter Udaloy Severomorsk [nice kit too, fit as good as Tamiya, a couple of details a little soft]...at the same building stage as Buchannon, only...let's just say; it was my experimental test piece for footrails). I may have even glued them to the cat.
Did you get that? Terrible grammer. Anyway.

My question is this; would it be possible to have [at least some of] the type 96 singles on Yukikaze...without having to remove X-turret?
I thought of just doing it anyway, as a fantasy ship...but some part of me just cringed. As I'll put the others in a sea, but not this one [as I love the lines of the Kagero below the waterline]; perhaps it could be displayed, as she would have been in drydock: with the 25mm singles in place...whilst still with X turret??

P.s, what I have planned for the build, are; Tamiyas Yukikaze [sounds like it's the nicest basic plastic kit, plus two weapons sprues], Lionroars set, and ModelMaster 25mm barrels [combined with LR pe, and kit gun bodys/stands-should be nice, and cheaper than spending another $90 on Veteren AA]. Oh yeah, and just a wee bit of plumbing [probably random; I don't mind if some of the details are inaccurate...just to increase that cluttered, exposed DD look].
I realised, looking through the gallery...that before 2006; 1/350 basically didn't exist in injected plastic-just a Tamiya Fletcher. Now I've narrowed the choice down between [totally spoilt]; Dragons Chevalier [will need a little scratchbuilding in the masts, i.e mesh platforms, nothing major], FineMoulds Ayanami [no specific pe], Trump/Monochrome Akizuki [STILL no pe, that I can find], A Z type...and a Kagero. Being so thus spoilt, is it wrong of me to wonder [not complain]...who's going to be the first to make a Shimakaze?? Wouldn't that be neat?
O.k, NOW I'm waffling, time to go...b

Z

Excellent work! I agree the weathering looks great!!

An excellent model overall! I love everything about it!






Bob Pink.

i love the extra detail that you put into the constuction, it really adds to the finished model.
The weathering is just fine so ignore the idiot.

The number of times i have nearly bought this kit are too many to mention, but i now find my local hobby shop have it reduced in price by 20% so i might find it hard to say no.


Roy

I take some extra photoes by my new camera, please see page 1

en~~I would probably choose Yahagi as my next project.

Wll GMM-Gold Metal Models has just released an IJN railings et. It's all I use in 1/700, and the same pattern as used on their 1/350 Takao sets. I think those are the best.


OTOH, if you want a complete kit, the new Hasegawa Yahagi with all the Hasegawa PE is magnificent.

yup, probably IJN again

Do you mean IJN?

My next project would be an destroyer or light cruiser. any suggestion on after-market products which can add more details?

Yes, your weathering looks pretty good to me. I'd like to see an example of your critic's work.

thx guys

I agree with Jose! Dirk

It's not up to the guy to like your model is up to you, ofcourse we all have different tastes but for what is worth i think it looks great!!


Jose

Hi, Dirk

Not, not you,

There is a guy in a Chinese model forum saying the weathering is lack of contrast and transition in colour, the shade is too simple and lack of skills generally

Hi hj1985,


Do you refer to my comment I have given above?

If yes, this is an misunderstanding. I really like your weathering.
Dirk

Not good enough? How so?

Someone saying the weathering is not good enough, any more comments?