The Ship Model Forum

On this ship most of the pipe rail is on the superstructure, so working my way down from the top. Current technique (evolving) is using .020 brass for the verticals and .010 piano wire for the horizontals, attached with CA. I'm rather amazed by what Song does using split bamboo etc on his scratch built ships.

Funny that 1:120 is an unusual scale for us inch mavens, ten feet to the inch, get out the calipers and the conversion to feet and fractions of a foot quite easy. Seems a decent scale for scratch building without the ship getting too huge.

I know a lot of carpenters that never quite finish their houses, I'm a photographer and never quite get around to model photos..

Next challenge is to build the long vertical ladders that go up the king posts!

Cheers: Tom

TY Tom,..good luck on the project. Pics soon maybe?

Thanks, your Sweeper looks quite nice! I am fortunate that the APA doesn't have a lot of main deck pipe rail!

Cheers: Tom

Fliger,..check out the stanchions and rails in my build of the AM238 Lindbergh Minesweeper...1/125 scale. shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=43881&start=20

What I used was from "Great Little Ships" Products over at the model-dockyard site http://www.model-dockyard.com/acatalog/ ... Ships.html The 2 rail stanchions look to be about 4ft tall in 1/125 scale. And the 3 rail at about 5 ft.

Maybe those will work for you ?

The 0.015" wire that I used is from Detail Associates (model railroading detail maker). I've never been able to get good consistent diameters when stretching sprue. Maybe it is all the noxious fumes that I am inhaling when I catch the sprue on fire for the hundredth time! I can make tapered antennas, but that is about it.

Maybe Paul Budzick can make a You-Tube video on that for us!

Using thin brass wire (Can't find .015 locally) and glueing the top rail on top and using stretched sprue for the lower rails seems to work OK so far. The thinner material doesn't appear to ride outside the verticals so much, especially after some paint.

No problem Tom. Happy to help. I learned the height spacer trick from one of Mike Ashey's books printed by Kalmbach.

David

Thank you for the detailed reply!

Tom

I've used different products on my builds. On my 1/125 USS Pirate from the Lindberg minesweeper kit, I used 3/8" photo etch stanchions from Bluejacket Shipcrafters and flyfishing tippett line. The stanchions are flat, so it is a trade off.

On my 1/160 LCI(G)-449 (also from the old Lindberg LCI kit), I used photoetch stanchions from Saemann in Germany (purchased through Ralf from NNT -I think) a vendor on our forums. I used fine brass wire for the rails (don't recall the diameter). I liked how these turned out since the stanchions are flat, but vary narrow and look more like posts and rails.

On my current project, a 1/125 LCT Mk 6 (converted from the Lindberg-LCU/LCT kit), i used 0.015" brass wire for the posts and 0.010" brass wire for the rails. Drill your holes for the posts, insert a length of wire longer than the finish height, and make a jig to cut the posts off at the right height above the deck with a flush cutter. I used a 1/8" square piece of plastic rod cut to the right height and attached another piece of styrene rod for a handle to hold it down against the deck while I clip the top of the post off. I then mount the top rail using super glue and accelerator. I made a spacing gauge from strip stock the right width for the gap between the deck and the middle rail of the railing (my build only has two rails) and mark the location on the posts with a ultrafine tip Sharpie. Then glue another horizontal rail in place with the brass wire. Finally, I trim the ends of the railings off with the outside posts or openings with the flush cutters again.

Method 1: Cons-stanchions are wider than a normal posts. Posts can bend when tensioning the line, so make sure that you add some angled braces before running the line. Pros-fastest method. Easy to run the lines and trim them and consistent spacing between horizontal runs of rails.
Method 2: Cons-had to search all over to find the stanchions and sizes available could be a little undersized for your scale. Pros-stanchions looked much closer to scale. Wire runs for the horizontals ensure good straight runs.
Method 3: Cons - railings mount on front of posts, so it doesn't look just like the prototype installations and have to be mindful of not leaving gaps between the rails and posts. Making sure all of the posts are even and the same height is a challenge as well. Watch out for accumulating too much glue at joints (particularly the ones that are frustrating you). Just when you get one in place and move to the next, one of the earlier ones might pop off on you. Also, make sure that you have a good sharp set of flush cutters. I use two-one for rough cutting wire to length and topping the posts, another one for trimming up the railing runs. Pros-cheaper material wise.

If you search the completed builds forum, I have some photos of my YMS minesweeper that used method 1. I just posted posted photos of my LCI(G)-449 on the Picture Post section of the forum that used Method 2 with the Saemann posts.

Good luck with your build!

David

I am building an APA in 1:120, suggestions on building pipe rail, probably fro brass wire.

Thanks: T