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Re: Making stretched sprue and Rigging with stretched sprue |
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Hello all, I have experimented with the Modelkasten 0.047 mm wire ( Nitinol-- memory wire) on my 1/350 Tugboat Maanzee... the results were quite pleasing-- but I still happily used Stretched Sprue for the halyards etc ! http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... /index.htmon my latest 1/700 model ( the Liner Normandie) http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/sh ... /index.htmI found the ( pretty thin wire! ) OK for the thick shrouds ( even on the real thing!) but all antenna and halyards etc were all done using stretched sprue I illustrate the difference of the sprue versus the 0.047 mm wire below! Attachment:
thin and thinner .jpg [ 806.6 KiB | Viewed 1990 times ]
Hello all,
I have experimented with the Modelkasten 0.047 mm wire ( Nitinol-- memory wire)
on my [size=150]1/350 [/size]Tugboat Maanzee...
the results were quite pleasing-- but I still happily used Stretched Sprue for the halyards etc !
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/misc/tugs/Maanzee-350-jb/index.htm
on my latest [size=150]1/700 [/size]model ( the Liner Normandie)
http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/ships/misc/liners/Normandy-700-jb/index.htm
I found the ( pretty thin wire! ) OK for the thick shrouds ( even on the real thing!) but all antenna and halyards etc were all done using stretched sprue
I illustrate the difference of the sprue versus the 0.047 mm wire below!
[attachment=0]thin and thinner .jpg[/attachment]
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Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2021 1:55 pm |
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Re: Making stretched sprue and Rigging with stretched sprue |
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sargentx wrote: JIm, The whole incense thing is really THE perfect solution for tightening rigging. It's dreamy how you can see the smoke stream and selectively tighten things up. Great great contribution to the art.! Thanks! I prefer sandlewood - very aromatic! Also covers the smell of glue and paint.
[quote="sargentx"]JIm, The whole incense thing is really THE perfect solution for tightening rigging. It's dreamy how you can see the smoke stream and selectively tighten things up. Great great contribution to the art.! Thanks![/quote] I prefer sandlewood - very aromatic! Also covers the smell of glue and paint. :big_grin: :wave_1:
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Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2021 7:55 pm |
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Re: Making stretched sprue and Rigging with stretched sprue |
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Great tutorial Jim, thank!
Great tutorial Jim, thank! :thumbs_up_1:
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Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2021 5:38 pm |
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Re: Making stretched sprue and Rigging with stretched sprue |
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Timmy C wrote: That was me who posted on your Reddit thread, actually - Jim's much better at this! Thanks.
[quote="Timmy C"]That was me who posted on your Reddit thread, actually - Jim's much better at this![/quote]
Thanks.
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Posted: Sun Jun 14, 2020 1:14 am |
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Re: Making stretched sprue and Rigging with stretched sprue |
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That was me who posted on your Reddit thread, actually - Jim's much better at this!
That was me who posted on your Reddit thread, actually - Jim's much better at this!
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Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2020 5:36 pm |
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Re: Making stretched sprue and Rigging with stretched sprue |
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Hi Jim I followed you here from Reddit lol, Thanks for posting in my sprue stretching post now Im here.
Hi Jim I followed you here from Reddit lol, Thanks for posting in my sprue stretching post now Im here. :thumbs_up_1:
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Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2020 4:32 pm |
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Re: Making stretched sprue and Rigging with stretched sprue |
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Will do Thks Kevin
Will do Thks Kevin
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Posted: Fri Jul 05, 2019 6:01 am |
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Re: Making stretched sprue and Rigging with stretched sprue |
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I use Humbrol ' Matt Cote ' ( the one in the glass jar ) ( image below )
thinned with white spirit ( less aggressive than Humbrol Thinners )
==> high grab, quick dry
allows a little bit of adjustment as well.
Best wishes JB
Attachments: |
ac5601.jpg [ 36.44 KiB | Viewed 4649 times ]
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I use Humbrol ' Matt Cote ' ( the one in the glass jar ) ( image below )
thinned with [u]white spirit[/u] ( less aggressive than Humbrol Thinners )
==> high grab, quick dry
allows a little bit of adjustment as well.
Best wishes JB
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Posted: Fri Jul 05, 2019 1:51 am |
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Re: Making stretched sprue and Rigging with stretched sprue |
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Attaching vertical lines to horizontal antennas should only be done using Matt varnish as an adhesive-otherwise the longitudinal will melt and snap if poly cement is used..
Jim when you say a Matt Varnish are you referring to a type that would be used for wood or matt clear for plastic? Thks kevin
Attaching vertical lines to horizontal antennas should only be done using Matt varnish as an adhesive-otherwise the longitudinal will melt and snap if poly cement is used..
Jim when you say a Matt Varnish are you referring to a type that would be used for wood or matt clear for plastic? Thks kevin
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Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2019 8:07 pm |
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Re: Making stretched sprue and Rigging with stretched sprue |
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Very helpful.
I have been wondering what to do about rigging.
I have access to very fine surgical threads (used to sew capillaries and tiny veins), which I was thinking of using.
But I have used stretched sprue before on model tanks for aerials/antennae.
This looks like "It" to do the rigging on my 1/700 ships.
MB
Very helpful.
I have been wondering what to do about rigging.
I have access to very fine surgical threads (used to sew capillaries and tiny veins), which I was thinking of using.
But I have used stretched sprue before on model tanks for aerials/antennae.
This looks like "It" to do the rigging on my 1/700 ships.
MB
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Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 11:21 pm |
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Re: Making stretched sprue and Rigging with stretched sprue |
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JIm, The whole incense thing is really THE perfect solution for tightening rigging. It's dreamy how you can see the smoke stream and selectively tighten things up. Great great contribution to the art.! Thanks!
JIm, The whole incense thing is really THE perfect solution for tightening rigging. It's dreamy how you can see the smoke stream and selectively tighten things up. Great great contribution to the art.! Thanks!
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Posted: Fri Jun 06, 2014 12:21 pm |
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Re: Making stretched sprue and Rigging with stretched sprue |
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For heat tightening rigging on large models, I have found that the best way to hold it above my head is to drill a hole in the bottom of the model, and hang it off of a screw that is very securely drilled into one of the high shelves in my workshop. The shelf is anchored into the wall of course.
For heat tightening rigging on large models, I have found that the best way to hold it above my head is to drill a hole in the bottom of the model, and hang it off of a screw that is very securely drilled into one of the high shelves in my workshop. The shelf is anchored into the wall of course.
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Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 11:25 am |
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Re: Making stretched sprue and Rigging with stretched sprue |
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Hello David M--apologies for late response--I have been away and terribly busy at work also.... holding model above you not much help there 1/200 is pretty big... i would try and test your marriage and get your wife/partner to hold the model whilst you apply heat/ smoke Katrin does it for me upon occasions... ( Mauretania http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/sh ... eview.html had a huge stainless steel plate attached to the bottom of the case-- and was too heavy for me also..
Hello David M--apologies for late response--I have been away and terribly busy at work also....
holding model above you
not much help there 1/200 is pretty big...
i would try and test your marriage and get your wife/partner to hold the model whilst you apply heat/ smoke
Katrin does it for me upon occasions...
( Mauretania
http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/ships/misc/liners/600-Mauretania-jb/jb-review.html
had a huge stainless steel plate attached to the bottom of the case-- and was too heavy for me also..
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Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 5:02 am |
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Re: Making stretched sprue and Rigging with stretched sprue |
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Jim, Thank you so much for this great tutorial, I was able to successfully make the stretch spruce rigging and install it on my 1/200 Arizona after reading this thread.
The one question I have is: do you know of any good ways to tighten the rigging lines without having to hold a model over your head?
I am a little worried if I try to hold my 1/200 Arizona over my head with one hand I may drop it ...
Thanks so much
David.
Jim, Thank you so much for this great tutorial, I was able to successfully make the stretch spruce rigging and install it on my 1/200 Arizona after reading this thread.
The one question I have is: do you know of any good ways to tighten the rigging lines without having to hold a model over your head?
I am a little worried if I try to hold my 1/200 Arizona over my head with one hand I may drop it ...
Thanks so much
David.
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Posted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 2:31 pm |
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Re: Making stretched sprue and Rigging with stretched sprue |
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thankyou from this newbie this howto helped me with my 1/700 rigging on my bismarck(my first ship) i just finished adding rigging to a sinking freighter it's sooooo easy with this method many thanks this is a great group to be in
glenn
thankyou from this newbie this howto helped me with my 1/700 rigging on my bismarck(my first ship) i just finished adding rigging to a sinking freighter it's sooooo easy with this method many thanks this is a great group to be in
glenn
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Posted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 5:05 pm |
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Re: Making stretched sprue and Rigging with stretched sprue |
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JIM BAUMANN wrote: Thank you 'wefalck' It about sums up why I use sprue.... Fishing line --even the very finest --as mentioned in 1/700 is too thick fro my liking ==> and also does not allow reliable consistent sag to be created. Copper wire does a good job of this- but can be very prone to kinking and dislodging when working on it ( especially in 1/700 scale).... Here are a couple of masters of copper rigging -both of whom generally work in in scales of 1/384 upwards ie 2 x as large or bigger as my teeny models... have a look here: JB viewtopic.php?f=12&t=38508and here viewtopic.php?f=12&t=39219Good morning, Jim, Thank You very much for the two very awesome links. Until now, I didn't know the works of Mr. Robert Wilson and Mr. John Prothero-Thomas existed. I can only sit down pout and cry at the level of artistic talent showcased by both gentlemen. Including you, I now have three role models. Sometime ago in this forum I said "Bah" about sail ship models but after viewing both gentlemen's absolutely sublime works of art, I have come to appreciate the beauty of sail ships Alot more, I mean it. Scratchbuilt, no PE sets and all that intricate and lovely rigging are sights to behold. Truly inspiring.
[quote="JIM BAUMANN"]Thank you 'wefalck' :thumbs_up_1:
It about sums up why I use sprue....
Fishing line --even the very finest --as mentioned in 1/700 is too thick fro my liking ==> and also does not allow reliable consistent sag to be created. Copper wire does a good job of this- but can be very prone to kinking and dislodging when working on it
( especially in 1/700 scale)....
Here are a couple of masters of copper rigging -both of whom generally work in in scales of 1/384 upwards
ie 2 x as large or bigger as my teeny models...
have a look here:
JB :wave_1:
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=38508
and here
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=39219[/quote]
Good morning, Jim,
Thank You very much for the two very awesome links. Until now, I didn't know the works of Mr. Robert Wilson and Mr. John Prothero-Thomas existed. I can only sit down pout and cry at the level of artistic talent showcased by both gentlemen. Including you, I now have three role models. :)
Sometime ago in this forum I said "Bah" about sail ship models but after viewing both gentlemen's absolutely sublime works of art, I have come to appreciate the beauty of sail ships [b]Alot[/b] more, I mean it. Scratchbuilt, no PE sets and all that intricate and lovely rigging are sights to behold. Truly inspiring.
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Posted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 9:55 am |
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Re: Making stretched sprue and Rigging with stretched sprue |
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First of all thank you for all the replys. I will definetly re-consider doing it with fishing lines.
So I guess I need to make lots of practice to have good results (In other words, for lines which have equal thicknesses)
First of all thank you for all the replys. I will definetly re-consider doing it with fishing lines.
So I guess I need to make lots of practice to have good results (In other words, for lines which have equal thicknesses)
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Posted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:55 am |
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Re: Making stretched sprue and Rigging with stretched sprue |
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Uzun Elendil wrote: According to my opinion using fishing line is the best option. First of all, it have lots of different thicknesses, from 0.26 MM to 1,5mm. Secondly it is strong and also have an elastic form. It is also cheap (especially in Turkey) Hi, I once tried nylon fishing lines to build railings at scale 1:100 on one of my models. I discovered they are prone to shrinking after a while, I had to redo the whole railing once again, with PE stanchions & brass wire. working at scales 1/350 to 1:700 asks for stretched sprue, I see no other way to work properly. This is by the way why I don't work at those scales
[quote="Uzun Elendil"]According to my opinion using fishing line is the best option. First of all, it have lots of different thicknesses, from 0.26 MM to 1,5mm. Secondly it is strong and also have an elastic form. It is also cheap (especially in Turkey)[/quote]
Hi,
I once tried nylon fishing lines to build railings at scale 1:100 on one of my models. I discovered they are prone to shrinking after a while, I had to redo the whole railing once again, with PE stanchions & brass wire.
[img]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1EIAAyIL1FI/TITEn8BBd0I/AAAAAAAAD5o/bO7RInmL1mg/w788-h591/photo13.JPG[/img] [img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-90Wotz4tueE/SSGbkMreV8I/AAAAAAAABbI/mkJ482ZdrYg/w788-h591/IMGP0004.JPG[/img]
working at scales 1/350 to 1:700 asks for stretched sprue, I see no other way to work properly.
This is by the way why I don't work at those scales :big_grin:
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Posted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 2:57 am |
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Re: Making stretched sprue and Rigging with stretched sprue |
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Thank you 'wefalck' It about sums up why I use sprue.... Fishing line --even the very finest --as mentioned in 1/700 is too thick fro my liking ==> and also does not allow reliable consistent sag to be created. Copper wire does a good job of this- but can be very prone to kinking and dislodging when working on it ( especially in 1/700 scale).... Here are a couple of masters of copper rigging -both of whom generally work in in scales of 1/384 upwards ie 2 x as large or bigger as my teeny models... have a look here: JB viewtopic.php?f=12&t=38508and here viewtopic.php?f=12&t=39219
Thank you 'wefalck' :thumbs_up_1:
It about sums up why I use sprue....
Fishing line --even the very finest --as mentioned in 1/700 is too thick fro my liking ==> and also does not allow reliable consistent sag to be created. Copper wire does a good job of this- but can be very prone to kinking and dislodging when working on it
( especially in 1/700 scale)....
Here are a couple of masters of copper rigging -both of whom generally work in in scales of 1/384 upwards
ie 2 x as large or bigger as my teeny models...
have a look here:
JB :wave_1:
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=38508
and here
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=39219
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Posted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 1:24 am |
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Re: Making stretched sprue and Rigging with stretched sprue |
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Without speaking for others, I think that there are three main features that makes it attractive:
- for small scale models, say 1/350 and below, fishing line (nylon monofilament) is far too thick.
- there are special techniques for attaching the polystyrene filaments by partially dissolving them and thus welding them to the attachement point; the same technique is used for attaching them to each other.
- the polystyrene filaments can be tigthened by gently reheating them, which makes them shrink.
If you don't like these home-made polystyrene monofilaments, you can use copper wire (readily available down to 0.05 mm diameter) or fly-tying threads (that go down to similar diameters and are available in many colours).
wefalck
Without speaking for others, I think that there are three main features that makes it attractive:
- for small scale models, say 1/350 and below, fishing line (nylon monofilament) is far too thick.
- there are special techniques for attaching the polystyrene filaments by partially dissolving them and thus welding them to the attachement point; the same technique is used for attaching them to each other.
- the polystyrene filaments can be tigthened by gently reheating them, which makes them shrink.
If you don't like these home-made polystyrene monofilaments, you can use copper wire (readily available down to 0.05 mm diameter) or fly-tying threads (that go down to similar diameters and are available in many colours).
wefalck
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Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 3:43 am |
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