Timothyo wrote:
Looks like a big project! I wouldn't worry about posting your build- I'm impressed by anyone who just owns, and even more, uses, calipers! Also, I would be very interested in your bitt technique. I'm looking forward to following your builds.
I spent the whole morning engaged in the utter monotony and tedium of trying to fill the gaps on my fore deck of my CV-17. The fit was awful; much worse than my Tico fore deck that I had to modify so much. I used my favorite “gap-filler” stretched sprue glued into the gaps. I sanded flush and gave it a coat of Tamiya putty, should be ready so sand tomorrow morning. I also got the aft 40mm gun tubs modified so they will fit flish with the deck rather that up on top of it.
Attachment:
TICO_HILL_010.JPG [ 105.39 KiB | Viewed 2233 times ]
As promised: I have no more Mooring Bitts t add to my Essex builds so I grabbed a deck from Trumpeters 1/350 Massachusetts if that's OK.
1.) First; punch-out a mass-amount of .010” disks using the 1/16” punch (1/32” for 1/700) what you don’t use today can be used for an infinite number of things tomorrow. My punch is from Micro-Mark, Waldron also makes; these are preposterously expensive…but, they are invaluable once you have them (I also could not imagine scratch building without calipers either).
Attachment:
BITTS_000.JPG [ 132.11 KiB | Viewed 2233 times ]
2.) I use 3/64” Rod (.025” for 1/700), I cut a piece about 6” long. I use a drill bit with a .001” interference so that the plastic rod is just snug as it is pushed in and pulled through in the hole, this is important because it makes it a lot easier.
3.) After I carefully cut off the molded “nipples”, I file them flat but NOT flush, leaving them just visible as shown makes it very easy to layout and center your drill bit as opposed to guessing the location. Try and drill as straight as possible. AFTER the holes are drilled hit them w/ the sanding stick.
Attachment:
BITTS_001.JPG [ 140.85 KiB | Viewed 2233 times ]
4.) I take a piece of strip plastic approx .100” and using the same bit drill a hole as strait as possible trough it. This is what I use to “square-up” my rod for each Bitt. Push the plastic rod up through the hole until it just sticks out and file the end flush with the surface and remove. This should make your rod end reasonably perpendicular with little effort as you proceed.
5.) Brush some cement on the end of the rod and then use it to pluck up one of the disks, a pester it a bit with my fingers until it looks about right then I gently tap it against the table to make sure its seated well.
Attachment:
BITTS_002.JPG [ 126.33 KiB | Viewed 2233 times ]
6.) Now push it into one of the holes and pull it through until it’s sitting about .100” high. I use another strip of .080” strip with a hole bored through it and the end sanded fairly close to the hole for clearance as my height setter. I place this over the bit and then gently press the rod with the end of my x-acto knife until it’s flush, then I carefully remove the jig. Just a note: .080” = 28” in scale height, I looked up some specs and found the larger Bitts to be 24”-27” high, so if you think they look too high you could use a .060-070”
Attachment:
BITTS_003.JPG [ 66.77 KiB | Viewed 2233 times ]
7.) Cut the end under the deck with your sprue cutters. Double check the height in case you pulled or pushed it a little (this is where snug comes in good) and the add cement to both sides.
8.) Repeat:
9.) I usually do only one and move to the next, that way when I’ve gotten one done on each Bitt pair, the glue on first one will be dry making it less likely that I’ll disturb it.
Attachment:
BITTS_004.JPG [ 107.84 KiB | Viewed 2233 times ]
I think it is very easy and you can see the difference, I think it is definitely worth the time.
That's all I have for now; I have a lot of fitting and filling to do before I can do anything "interesting".
Thank you so much for your interest in my builds.
[quote="Timothyo"]Looks like a big project! I wouldn't worry about posting your build- I'm impressed by anyone who just owns, and even more, uses, calipers! Also, I would be very interested in your bitt technique. I'm looking forward to following your builds.[/quote]
I spent the whole morning engaged in the utter monotony and tedium of trying to fill the gaps on my fore deck of my CV-17. The fit was awful; much worse than my Tico fore deck that I had to modify so much. I used my favorite “gap-filler” stretched sprue glued into the gaps. I sanded flush and gave it a coat of Tamiya putty, should be ready so sand tomorrow morning. I also got the aft 40mm gun tubs modified so they will fit flish with the deck rather that up on top of it.
[attachment=5]TICO_HILL_010.JPG[/attachment]
As promised: I have no more Mooring Bitts t add to my Essex builds so I grabbed a deck from Trumpeters 1/350 Massachusetts if that's OK.
1.) First; punch-out a mass-amount of .010” disks using the 1/16” punch (1/32” for 1/700) what you don’t use today can be used for an infinite number of things tomorrow. My punch is from Micro-Mark, Waldron also makes; these are preposterously expensive…but, they are invaluable once you have them (I also could not imagine scratch building without calipers either).
[attachment=4]BITTS_000.JPG[/attachment]
2.) I use 3/64” Rod (.025” for 1/700), I cut a piece about 6” long. I use a drill bit with a .001” interference so that the plastic rod is just snug as it is pushed in and pulled through in the hole, this is important because it makes it a lot easier.
3.) After I carefully cut off the molded “nipples”, I file them flat but NOT flush, leaving them just visible as shown makes it very easy to layout and center your drill bit as opposed to guessing the location. Try and drill as straight as possible. AFTER the holes are drilled hit them w/ the sanding stick.
[attachment=3]BITTS_001.JPG[/attachment]
4.) I take a piece of strip plastic approx .100” and using the same bit drill a hole as strait as possible trough it. This is what I use to “square-up” my rod for each Bitt. Push the plastic rod up through the hole until it just sticks out and file the end flush with the surface and remove. This should make your rod end reasonably perpendicular with little effort as you proceed.
5.) Brush some cement on the end of the rod and then use it to pluck up one of the disks, a pester it a bit with my fingers until it looks about right then I gently tap it against the table to make sure its seated well.
[attachment=2]BITTS_002.JPG[/attachment]
6.) Now push it into one of the holes and pull it through until it’s sitting about .100” high. I use another strip of .080” strip with a hole bored through it and the end sanded fairly close to the hole for clearance as my height setter. I place this over the bit and then gently press the rod with the end of my x-acto knife until it’s flush, then I carefully remove the jig. Just a note: .080” = 28” in scale height, I looked up some specs and found the larger Bitts to be 24”-27” high, so if you think they look too high you could use a .060-070”
[attachment=1]BITTS_003.JPG[/attachment]
7.) Cut the end under the deck with your sprue cutters. Double check the height in case you pulled or pushed it a little (this is where snug comes in good) and the add cement to both sides.
8.) Repeat:
9.) I usually do only one and move to the next, that way when I’ve gotten one done on each Bitt pair, the glue on first one will be dry making it less likely that I’ll disturb it.
[attachment=0]BITTS_004.JPG[/attachment]
I think it is very easy and you can see the difference, I think it is definitely worth the time.
That's all I have for now; I have a lot of fitting and filling to do before I can do anything "interesting".
Thank you so much for your interest in my builds.
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and I will like to see that build.
That was what I was trying to show; I guess I didn't convey very well. the waterlines line up fine between the two hulls. They match at the waterline which calls into question the Fore Hanger Deck piece length. Oh well I think it came out OK though.