The Ship Model Forum

Any thing new? Im still interested. I just razzed Vic for some Marlborough post so I cant leave you out. :lol_1:

TommyL.

Naturally balsa wood is not the material of choice here, even taking and skinning the balsa wood with styrene has ts problems as the two materials can delaminate with time, I have seen this with several models, I usually will laminate styrene over plexiglass or lexan but I use solvent type glues to make ure the two materials stay together.




There is nothing wrong with balsa wood in a model, its how you go about it. Most of my models use balsa wood but it is treated with resin and laminated with fiber matting added to that fiber paste ( car body filla) its like a fiber glass hull, the balsa only acts as a carrier for the resining and matting.

I have models in my garage that are 20 years old, no degrading, still like the day they were built, and these are all sailing models, a guy asked me once, are they strong, giving it a whack with a 2lb hammer , I said how strong do you want it. :lol_3: :wave_1: :wave_1: :big_grin: :lol_spit_1: :lol_spit_1:

One of the largest benifits of using fiberglass hulls for working models is the robustness of the hull which can be a very good thing when your model is in the water which equates into longevity of the model as well.

This is more of an issue with a museum model, as these models must last without any warping or especially cracking of the hull or joints in the superstructure for a minimum of 5 years and some museums require the fit and finish of the model to be guaranteed for longer periods then this.
Naturally balsa wood is not the material of choice here, even taking and skinning the balsa wood with styrene has ts problems as the two materials can delaminate with time, I have seen this with several models, I usually will laminate styrene over plexiglass or lexan but I use solvent type glues to make ure the two materials stay together.

The use of fiberglass hulls and plastics has only recently been accepted by museums and not all museums will accept it still.

The Museum at the US Naval Academy still requires old growth southern white pine for the hulls and structures, that stuff is getting as rare as Edsell Dealerships and very expensive. Newer plantation grown woods are just not as stable.

The fiberglass hulls that I make here at Scale Shipyard will be around long after we are all gone to dust, This is becoming a problem for fiberglass shops disposing of the waste from production as this stuff does not break down in landfills that well eiher, some larger manufactures grind this down to a powder for use as fillers needed in subsequent production.

Hi Kurt I agree with all your points and see no problem what so ever in building on a GRP hull accept perhaps one of cost. Having built up hulls from scratch and used /using GRP there are benefits in going down both avenues. I think scratch allows for a much wider choice assuming drawings are available but GRP is more durable. There is of course that great feeling of satisfaction in building a model from the keel up and seeing it sail well but that is a rather abstract description as satisfaction with a model is all relative. I think most modellers me included tend to include a degree of bought in fittings so even the description Scratch becomes blurred.
Dave Wooley

On the subject of cost of fiberglass vs. scratchbuilt hulls, a lot depends on the materials you build the hull from. Balsa / basswood over bulkhead, you will save a lot of money scratchbuilding. If you make the hull from lifts of mahogany or other high grade carving wood, the savings will be considerably less.

In operational enviorments (r/c) , glass hulls do better, as wood hulls tend to degrade over time, especially in warmer climates.

I have been building for a long time, and have done hulls using a variety of methods, but at this point in my life, if a nicely done commercial unit is available, I will use it without question. It lets me get to the more enjoyable aspects (for me) - outfitting with gear, detailing - that much sooner. Other guys really enjoy the process of building a hull, and so for them, it makes sense to go that route. That is the great thing about this hobby, you have a lot of choices.

Kurt

.... Above was me.... :Oops_1: :doh_1:

Heh, the Yamato is awesome...

One problem working above 1:150th on the thing..

It starts getting monstrously huge..... :heh:

Tell your Mom you need the use of the living room for a few months. :lol_pound:

ha, i'd love to work on the yamato..... unfortunately not only is my car too small.... but my workshop is in the basement....i dont think that beast will fit into the basement.

If Bill is buying a scale shipyard hull ( included with this hull) is a 4 piece fiberglass superstructure molding set which includes the main structure from main deck level to the 03 level, conning tower, forward director tower with stack & cap and the after director tower. Also included is a set of plans for BB-58 as she was in 1944.

How much would it be cheaper by if you bought only the hull and plans, and not the superstructure parts, Bill?

Gah! a 1/96 Yammy would be enough of a project. I cannot imagine doing it in any larger of a scale.

TommyL.

HMMMMMMM................................?????????? Too big. I really don't want it. Anybody else?? Too involved of a project for me. 1/96 is enough of a job to do accurately. Steves Yamato is 1/48. Only half of the hull is completed. Don't really know what else is done. I know he had some parts in the works. I'll check it out in due time. Anybody interested, please advise.

OMG.....do i dare suspect that canoe he called the yamato?

WOW!!! :thumbs_up_1: :eyebrows: This is great!! OK..... I am thinking about getting the hull from Scaleshipyards, AKA-- Lee Upshaw. I have checked around and I have found out his stuff is pretty good. You get, on an initial order,hull, main parts of the superstructure and plans for the ship. By the time I get it here it will cost almost $900.00 US. That's a lot of change. There is another $1,100.00 worth of stuff to go with it, should I decide to buy. That is $2,000.00 US. I can do alot with two grand. I still feel I need to build all from scratch, but on the other hand, I like the idea of doing the fiberglass hull version. Some of you have mentioned GRP. Here in the US, it is called fiberglass. My point is, material wise, I can scratchbuild the hull alot cheaper. Timewise, probably not. So I think I will go with the prefabbed hull, then concentrate on the rest from mostly scratch. Assuming the product is good. I assume it will be. This will be a learning experience for me, using someone else's hull for the build. As goes for some of you out there. We will explore this together. I will update you all as soon as things get started. I am still in the process of setting up the new shop. I am almost there. looks pretty good. I'll post some new photos soon of the new Jacksonville Drydock. In the meantime, I am gathering info on the ship. I await more stuff. Research is important, in any build you do. This next ship will be in memory of my good friend, Steve Nuttall. I still grieve is passing.I have things in the works to carry on where Steve left off. A lot of ifs in that statement. We will see how things develop. Rest assured, I am working on it. So, thanks to all for the input. Wish me luck................... I continue on :wave_1:
Best to all, Bill Waldorf
Waldorf Productions

Well, we have seen hulls being build from scratch, so why not a GRP-hull, might be interesting for people building their first GRP-hulled model.
A GRP-hull needs cleaning and preparing as well, so why not? :thumbs_up_1:

Good luck, Johan :wave_1: :wave_1:

[quote="Bill Waldorf"]Hello again! Working on the new shop still. Have plans for the BB-58. Would you guys hate me if I did a semi-scratchbuild?? Thinking about getting the hull from Scaleshipyard, AKA- Lee Upshaw. Sure would save alot of time. I can then concentrate on more details. Your thoughts??????? I have changed my profile. We are good to go!! Let me know!! :wave_1:[/quote]

No problem. It would be something different! Not everyone is into building a scratch hull so this should be a great reference for them. I want to see lots of plexiglass bracing and superstructure. Your the master of the synthetics (styrene/plastic). :thumbs_up_1:

TommyL.

as an unashamed kit builder...if there is an accurate and usable shortcut--why not?

It will allow you to complete theis commission and crack on with the Hiryu(?)

:thumbs_up_1:

I shall be watching!

JIM B

Hi Bill if a hull is available in GRP, to the right scale and quality then go for it.
Dave Wooley

It�s your model and I guess it will depend mostly on your timetable, but I am with Kenny on this. Since you are a master at modelshipbuilding, you can have the hull and concentrate on the decks, superstructures, guns and else.

Any way you take it will be a great thread to follow!.

Cheers.

Pachi.