The Ship Model Forum

by **MikeCampbell** » Mon May 06, 2024 2:12 pm

Lastly the Hangar Deck:

In place and nearly ready to go:

Or at least on stand(by)

Now I just have a ton of small detail to add and more painting to go.

by **MikeCampbell** » Sun May 05, 2024 6:49 pm

Forward superstructure gets the same treatment:

Then can be attached to the hull (I am leaving it separate at the moment as it makes addition of extra detail and painting easier):

by **MikeCampbell** » Sun May 05, 2024 6:41 pm

On to the rear control deck.

This is a mix of filament and resin print parts. Decks are printed in gray filament with 2 layers of wood filament for the planking levels which involves 2 filament swaps during the print. (start in gray, swap to wood, swap to gray)

Cyanoacetate fixes all the parts together really well.

And slowly add extra pieces to give it a bit more oompf:

Then it can be added to the hull along with other bits of detail:

by **MikeCampbell** » Sun May 05, 2024 6:24 pm

Now I start adding the deck prints:

Part 1:

The attachment First Deck.jpg is no longer available

Part 2:

And so on until all in place:

Which sort of completes the hull. One or 2 smaller bits of detail to be added.

The ship is basically 4 parts:

Hull

Forward control deck superstructureHull

Hangar deck superstructure

Rear control deck superstructure

by **MikeCampbell** » Sun May 05, 2024 6:24 pm

Now I start adding the deck prints:

Part 1:

Part 2:

And so on until all in place:

Which sort of completes the hull. One or 2 smaller bits of detail to be added.

The ship is basically 4 parts:

Hull

Forward control deck superstructureHull

Hangar deck superstructure

Rear control deck superstructure

by **MikeCampbell** » Sat May 04, 2024 9:49 am

Shoot the first tone of Hull Grey:

Then mask of the first tone grey that we want to keep:

Shoot the second tone of grey:

Then mask the bits of that we want to keep:

Spray the third tone of grey:

Let it dry and finally we can remove the masking to see what we have:

by **MikeCampbell** » Sat May 04, 2024 9:36 am

I have actually still been working on this. I better provide some updates

So the hull got stuck together , cleaned up and looks like this:

With cross sections and deck supports:

So the first thing to do is to apply the black waterline band. Just a rough shot of black will do:

Then some careful masking:

Shoot the hull red:

Then mask of the red paint:

by **MikeCampbell** » Fri Dec 01, 2023 7:01 am

Thanks David,

I have gone through these plans a bit and the level of detail is amazing. Thanks so much for your input!

Am I right in assuming that the cross-section drawings are internal? They seem to be missing details on armour/torpedo belt details etc.

Regards,

Mike

by **MikeCampbell** » Mon Nov 27, 2023 5:14 pm

Thanks David,

A little bit of light reading for me to do on the weekend (my Germans a bit rusty as well, but the level of detail is amazing).

by **MikeCampbell** » Sun Nov 26, 2023 12:11 am

Hi Dave,

The cross sections came from a relatively low-res version I got some time ago from FreeShipPlans. I also have a set of the ShipArchive ones but these were not to hand when I was doing the hull design.

I was also not completely across converting hull line drawings to 3D models and struggled a bit with simple lofting between cross sections. The bulge on the nose was really beyond that.

If I was doing it again the results might be a bit closer.

by **DrPR** » Sat Nov 25, 2023 10:42 pm

Mike,

I had the same problem in my USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model (US Cleveland class hull). The bulbous bow was something new in the 1930s.

I couldn't get the CAD system to generate the correct sharply curved surface that faired into the smoother surfaces aft. So I drew the bulbous part as a separate entity, and then created the other hull surfaces using the edges of the bulbous part as templates for the other surfaces.

I actually created the hull with about a dozen separate surfaces. I did the tricky parts first and then filled in the gaps with simpler surfaces.

Phil

by **MikeCampbell** » Sat Nov 25, 2023 8:56 pm

Thanks Tom

Hi David,

The bows, the bows...

The hull was one of my first attempts at 3D design of this type. Promise I have improved and I should go back and fix this, but...

This is what it's supposed to look like (Source Wikipedia ) ):

: Reality

This is what the 3D design looks like:

: According to design file

I dislike it intensely, and have remodelled it slightly to look like this using plastic putty and whatever was lying around:

: As is

Its sort of there, but still needs some work I think.

by **Fliger747** » Fri Nov 24, 2023 3:46 pm

Those look great!

Tom

by **MikeCampbell** » Fri Nov 24, 2023 2:22 pm

Hi all,

I re-worked the main turrets and mast with hollowing and am very pleased with the results.

Love the great ideas that come up in this forum and appreciate your assistance.

by **Fliger747** » Wed Nov 15, 2023 3:19 pm

Had very good luck printing hollow masts, in a vertical orientation, hollow. In some cases printing in several sections. The wire makes it very easy to locate the sections and retain strength. The biggest issue is keeping the central hole open during washing and curing. I would run a wire up and down while washing to prevent bubbles forming and blocking the passage. A way to do the yards is to have the cross piece stubbed with a hole to run the wire through both yards which are printed separately. Solid yards will bend and droop, especially under tension of rigging.

Keep up the great work! I can appreciate the work on the sea planes! Tom

by **Fliger747** » Tue Nov 14, 2023 12:37 pm

I did some printed ladder rungs and expedited the process by having just one line of holes, the rungs were just inserted into the hull on one side and the other side just adhered with a spot of adhesive to the surface. Only half as many holes, easier alignment etc.

by **MikeCampbell** » Tue Nov 14, 2023 6:55 am

Iceman 29 wrote:Nice turrets, better then the Trumpeter one's !

Yes, the piano wire is compulsory on the inside, otherwise it bends irreparably, idem for cannons.
That's what I started to do for periscopes.

Picture: viewtopic.php?f=13&t=346058&start=20

Thanks pascal,

Maybe better than the stock Tamiya turrets, but then I saw a video of some dude gluing the individual ladder rungs on the back of the turret from PE one rung at a time from the Upgrade kit. They are better, but I simply don't have that much time..

by **Iceman 29** » Fri Nov 10, 2023 5:41 pm

Nice turrets, better then the Trumpeter one's !

Yes, the piano wire is compulsory on the inside, otherwise it bends irreparably, idem for cannons.
That's what I started to do for periscopes.

Picture: viewtopic.php?f=13&t=346058&start=20

by **Fliger747** » Fri Nov 10, 2023 3:40 pm

For my ARL and DE masts I printed them in halves as you describe. It also worked better to make the yards hollow and each end printed separately and also joined with a wire. For the DE the mast protruded through several decks and it worked well to print each section secretly and run a wire to locate all the sections. I'm sure whatever solutions you work out will be satisfactory. An advantage of 3D is if doesn't work one can make modifications.

Regards: Tom

by **MikeCampbell** » Thu Nov 09, 2023 6:52 pm

Thanks Tom and Pascal,

Maybe print the masts in halves and glue them around the wire :/

More stuff to clean up and paint...

: 34cm Turret Bruno

: 34cm Bruno Turret 1

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