The Ship Model Forum

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Everything you need to know about using future in model building, including airbrushing. Just copy the link toyour browser, replace the two xx with tt and you are good to go.

Ric

Tom -

One the guys in our club regularly sprays Future unthinned but he uses low pressure.

I have thinned Future with rubbing alcohol (70% isopropyl) along with a drop of flow enhancer (you can use liquid dish detergent).

Another one of our club members always applies Future with a brush. He build airliners and his results are great.

I have taken to using the brush since I have never had much luck airbrushing the stuff and I am lazy. (Don't like cleaning airbrushes). I found that a key element is to be sure that your surface is very smooth to start with. I polish with 600, 800 and 1000 grit before using it. Otherwise, you end up with the dreaded orange peel effect.

HTH

- Grant
IPMS/Toronto

Gentlemen -

Thank you for the rapid responses. I'm seeing a pattern emerge here (although somewhat counter-intuitive):

A gravity feed airbrush does not necessarilly mean thinning ratios that are less than or equal to the siphon feed type. I didn't try thinning the paint more than usual and assumed that the gravity feed design actually required less thinning, if anything. It may simply be that the nozzles and needles on the Iwata's a are so fine compared to the Badger 150 that a high than normal thinnning ratio is required for proper and consistent atomization.

I'll try it again from scratch in a day or too and keep it simple by sticking with Future along with varying amounts of Windex thinner for the tests.

Appreciate the input.

Tom Naylor

The lower your pressure idea is def the one to go with, if your still having problems try adding extra thinner, add about 5% more than your using now then 10% and so on. I take it that your measuring out your paint etc,

Roy

I use a gravity feed Victor, and it works just perfect with acryls and enamels of different makes and with large variety of pressures. No dripple, no spatter. The only problem I had was with the Revell's bronze enamel, which had too large particles to go through the fine nozzle!

Dear Tom,

A demonstration I have seen of using an Iwata, from the dealers, and I assume it goes for other brands of airbrushes as well, have stressed the importance of using a low pressure from the compressor, no more than 15psi, combined with sufficient (and a surprising degree of) thinning of the paint with the appropriate thinners. I've always had terrible problems with my airbrushes in the past with clogging, splattering etc and had always assumed that putting up the pressure would be the best way to get over the clogging problem. But apparently not. I haven't had a chance to try this new way out yet.

Regards,

David Griffith

Thanks for the info Grant. I'll send you a p-mail. Really appreciate the help.

Best Regards,

Tom Naylor

Tom -

I personally do not own an Iwata (yet) and I am making do with a Paasche. However, one of my friends bought the same Iwata and he was having lots of problems. He was using ModelMaster enamels and not Future but his problems were the same as yours.

He took it into the art supply store where he bought it and the person there explained the problem. The solvent was drying too quickly when it went through the airbrush and this caused a build up of paint on the needle tip. Evidently, it is a know issue that is called "tip drying".

Initialliy, my friend started hating his Iwata but eventually he figured it out and now he loves it.

If you want, I can put you in touch with him so that you can discuss this off-board. My personal e-mail address is grant-dot-goodale -at - sympatico-dot-ca

HTH

- Grant

ShipMates,

I recently upgraded from my Badger 150 double-action, siphon feed airbrush to an Iwata HP-C Plus gravity feed dbl. action model and am trying to adapt and overcome some of the behavioral changes, most notably, a tendency for future floor wax (unthinned) to occasionally drip and spatter. I've experimented with a variety of air pressures as well as distance to the work to no avail. I assume it's related to understanding the gravity feed design vs. siphon (which worked beautifully). The spattering and dripping from the nozzle also occurs when using thinned Floquil enamels (along with glaze and dio-sol added). Has anyone else experienced this with the Iwata's or other gravity feed types and found a way to resolve it?

Best Regards,

Tom Naylor