by j leyland » Wed Dec 06, 2006 5:12 pm
I started using sprue railings in 1977 and continued until photoetch from GMM was available. Here is my method, although I cannot begin to duplicate GMM quality. If you have access to a copy of FSM for Mar. 1991 you can see some of my old models with sprue rails pp. 24-25.
The key is to use stanchions (vertical posts) which are somewhat thicker than the lines (horizontal wires). To make stanchions of equal length, stretch your sprue and then cut it into 4 in. long pieces, then line up 8 lengths parallel, so that each cut with your razor blade produces eight equal stanchions. I would use a photoetch man as a length reference. Once you have a supply of stanchions, use a sharp centerpunch or large pin to mark the location of each stanchion, then carefully glue then in place. Let them dry completely, then go back with a brush and liquid Testors cement and lightly (too much will dissolve the stanchion and cut it off) touch the base of each to make sure it is solid. Again let this dry fully while you stretch the finest possible sprue for the horizontal wires. Now VERY lightly touch the first 3 stantions with liquid cement trying NOT to let any run to the base of the stanchion. Place the beginning of a length of your superfine sprue at the level of the lowest rail and adjust its position carefully with the brush tip. The key is to use almost no cement, as excess will cut the fine strand (a useful tool as you will see). Continue along the row of stantions. If you come to a turn or the end of a row, put a LITTLE more cement on the last stanchion and it will cut cleanly off. This effect is an advantage in rigging with sprue also. You can now see why the stanchion has to be somewhat thicker than the wire, as you have to be able to cut the wire without also cutting the stanchion. You will be very suprised to find how quickly you can master this. If it is giving you too much problem, try a different brand of spure. Try to select a plastic which dissolves easily with Testors cement, especially for the wires. Hope this helps. I think that this method gives better appearance than photoetch in 1/350 and larger, but I can't match GMM fine rails in 1/700.
I started using sprue railings in 1977 and continued until photoetch from GMM was available. Here is my method, although I cannot begin to duplicate GMM quality. If you have access to a copy of FSM for Mar. 1991 you can see some of my old models with sprue rails pp. 24-25.
The key is to use stanchions (vertical posts) which are somewhat thicker than the lines (horizontal wires). To make stanchions of equal length, stretch your sprue and then cut it into 4 in. long pieces, then line up 8 lengths parallel, so that each cut with your razor blade produces eight equal stanchions. I would use a photoetch man as a length reference. Once you have a supply of stanchions, use a sharp centerpunch or large pin to mark the location of each stanchion, then carefully glue then in place. Let them dry completely, then go back with a brush and liquid Testors cement and lightly (too much will dissolve the stanchion and cut it off) touch the base of each to make sure it is solid. Again let this dry fully while you stretch the finest possible sprue for the horizontal wires. Now VERY lightly touch the first 3 stantions with liquid cement trying NOT to let any run to the base of the stanchion. Place the beginning of a length of your superfine sprue at the level of the lowest rail and adjust its position carefully with the brush tip. The key is to use almost no cement, as excess will cut the fine strand (a useful tool as you will see). Continue along the row of stantions. If you come to a turn or the end of a row, put a LITTLE more cement on the last stanchion and it will cut cleanly off. This effect is an advantage in rigging with sprue also. You can now see why the stanchion has to be somewhat thicker than the wire, as you have to be able to cut the wire without also cutting the stanchion. You will be very suprised to find how quickly you can master this. If it is giving you too much problem, try a different brand of spure. Try to select a plastic which dissolves easily with Testors cement, especially for the wires. Hope this helps. I think that this method gives better appearance than photoetch in 1/350 and larger, but I can't match GMM fine rails in 1/700.