Now this is a topic I have LOTS of experience in! (Thanks to Kenny for the heads up!)
The bare contacts thing as a sensor never works (might kinda work with salt/brackish water).
I have a diagram for wiring your own up, which I have tried. It works- sorta. Usually, by the time the water is deep enough to engage the pump, it's too late. Plus, there's almost always a priming issue- it takes to pump so long to prime, and force the air bubble up and out, the usually wins.
However, here's an old article from the old MBG site I archived on how to make your own;
http://www.modelwarships.com//features/ ... topump.htm
I've also tried float switches, using a magnet and a reed switch- didn't really work either.
So, I've become a firm believer in the KISS principle of bilge pump activation;
1) A dedicated channel on my radio so I can periodically turn the pump on and off-
2) Letting the pump run all the time.
Option 2 virtually requires a dedicated pump battery.
Here's another article I archived that shows how to make your own pump. I've made numerous pumps this way, and they all work GREAT.
http://www.modelwarships.com/features/h ... n_pump.htm
When I make a water channel, I also like to build my battery boxes between the hull and the channel. I fill any empty spaces with foam, then epoxy the heck out of everything to make it watertight.
Water channeling is good- and remember, water is going to want to travel aft when the ship is in motion, and fwd when you slow and stop. Lots of water in the hull can build up a bunch of inertia, and can really cause your ship to swing and oscillate wildly in turns.
Now this is a topic I have LOTS of experience in! (Thanks to Kenny for the heads up!)
The bare contacts thing as a sensor never works (might kinda work with salt/brackish water).
I have a diagram for wiring your own up, which I have tried. It works- sorta. Usually, by the time the water is deep enough to engage the pump, it's too late. Plus, there's almost always a priming issue- it takes to pump so long to prime, and force the air bubble up and out, the usually wins.
However, here's an old article from the old MBG site I archived on how to make your own;
http://www.modelwarships.com//features/how-to/pumps/autopump.htm
I've also tried float switches, using a magnet and a reed switch- didn't really work either.
So, I've become a firm believer in the KISS principle of bilge pump activation;
1) A dedicated channel on my radio so I can periodically turn the pump on and off-
2) Letting the pump run all the time.
Option 2 virtually requires a dedicated pump battery.
Here's another article I archived that shows how to make your own pump. I've made numerous pumps this way, and they all work GREAT.
http://www.modelwarships.com/features/how-to/pumps/smallgun_pump.htm
When I make a water channel, I also like to build my battery boxes between the hull and the channel. I fill any empty spaces with foam, then epoxy the heck out of everything to make it watertight.
Water channeling is good- and remember, water is going to want to travel aft when the ship is in motion, and fwd when you slow and stop. Lots of water in the hull can build up a bunch of inertia, and can really cause your ship to swing and oscillate wildly in turns.