The Ship Model Forum

You can also 'neutralize' just about any paint for recoating with a primer called BIN by Zinser(sp?). Its like KILN primer that can paint over oil(not just paint but oil!), tree sap, stains, etc. You need to look for the BIN primer that is laquer based(its in Home Deopt with the huge gallons of primer in the paint department) in a normal rust-oleum size spray can, white with the red label(not the blue one) and black cap. It has INCREDIBLE covering capeability but can get thick quick with recoats, it does not take much. It is easilly sandable. You can paint right over it with any other type of paint. It can be done thin with care, dont get it on your nails though its almost impossible to get off wear gloves or grocery store bags on your 'hold' hand

Hello Robbo

"Easy Off" is the ONLY oven cleaner that is safe. If you use another brand you are taking chances that could destroy your model. I tried some other brands just to save a couple of bucks. It ended up melting my model. Ended up loosing money, not saving money.

Thanks for your help guys. i called round a few diy stores locally to see if they sold paint stripper that wouldnt damage the plastic, but they al stocked stuff that would be too strong. After testing oven cleaner, i found it damaged the plastic.
I ended up just getting some very fine sandpaper and sanding the worst of it away. It has been repainted by brush and now you wouldnt know the difference. It was awkward tosand tho...the whole model practically is made up of I beams. Getting into the corners was tricky.
If anyone is interested i could post photos on website...its a bit of topic tho, its the North Cormorant Revell oil rig in 1/200. I tell you, its a real challenge, very different to warship modelling. So much painting and weathering is needed before construction, more so than ship modelling. Soo many hard to reach areas when finshed.
Anyways, thanks again guys for your help.

Ron Smith wrote:What we have here is a failure to understand exactly what you're spraying. It is not acrylic like the water based model paints, it is an acrylic lacquer.

That's what it sounds like to me as well. Other than a few Krylon clear products in a spray can, I can't think of any true acrylic paints packaged that way.

-Devin

...

had the same thing happen to me on my Augusta. Only mines balsa wood and silkspan sheeting. The odd thing is ive used this combo fo the EXACT cans before without problem. I primed the hull, then went over it with gray or red spray paint nad it keeps wrinking, blistering, and cracking. Drives me insane! when i go to sand it out it tears up my Silkspan.

have done the same thing as you except, on a resin kit. As soon as the Acrylic paint hit the enamel it bubbled up and formed wrinkles. I managed to get everything off with Easy Off Oven Cleaner. This stuff is gentle on plastic, not like other oven cleaners that can melt the plastic. Use a old tooth brush or any kind of medium hard brush to get in the models corners to remove paint.

Hi all. Doing a slightly diffeerent project for a local shop window...Revells 1/200 oil rig. I painted most of the framework with oil based Revell paint, before deciding to try to get a spray paint in the same colour, as it was so tedious. I found an car paint spray, its acrylic, so when i used it, it instantly went all wrinkly and blistered. unfortunately, i never realised spraying acrylic over oil based had that effect. How do i remove the wrinkly paint? I really need to remove it witouht damageing the plastic. Is there any way to use acrylic paint over oil based without the wrinkles? It is the perfect colour, and i really need a spray. If anyone can help, i would be very grateful.