The Ship Model Forum

I prefer cutting on a piece of Polycast II, less ping factor and kinder to the blade than glass. For sharp bends I have a 4" Hold & Fold that works great. For rounding I just a drill blank and roll with a few sheets of paper under the part or my fingertip under it depending on the bend.

For sharp bends in a superstructure (not curves, corners) I mount seperate bits of railing. It's sharper and more realistic.

Thank you. I am not far off the PE part of the Oriol build so I will be giving it a go for the first time in a day or so (the Markgraf I am taking my time with). PVA I never thought of useing and I got a few of those mouse pads round here some place I will keep you all posted on how I get on. Thank you all for the advice and tips etc had no real Idea how to work with PE but love the look on a finished ship and its time to lift my game so to speak.

Dear Dave,

A sheet of glass is great for cutting photoetch railings, but for bending them I'd suggest you get a mouse mat. Don't get a thick, luxurious one; a thin one like the freebies given out by sales reps are better. Turn it upside down so that the neoprene backing is uppermost. If you put the railing on this and press down on it with a straight blade, you will get a lovely sharp bend without the risk of distorting the railing that would come with too much handling.

If you take a drill or a piece or metal rod and roll it along the railing you can get curves or even complete circles. Simple!!

I'd also suggest using diluted PVA glue to fix the railings to the ship, having first put a number of tiny strips of masking tape on the side of the ship, sticking up like enormous stanchions. This will enable you to get the railing precisely positioned before applying any glue. Diluted PVA can be applied precisely with a brush, dries inconspicuously and fills any tiny gaps.

That's what I do and it always works a treat for me.

Kind regards,

David Griffith

Dave Stone wrote:Funny thing is I appear to be getting them faster than I can make them. I expect thats normal lol

Tell Jim Baumann!!

Thank you all for the help. I went and got myself a nice sheet of glass and it makes a lot of sense to me to paint the PE on the fret to start with (I have taken to doing that with all model parts as well and touch up after its all together). Still got a lot to learn but you got to start some place and I hope to post some photos of these builds. The standard of work here is extreamly high but will do my best.
Time to start these kits then . Funny thing is I appear to be getting them faster than I can make them. I expect thats normal lol

I've found that spray-painting the PE fret with matt or semi-matt black before use helps a lot. It provides a good undercoat for later painting, and ensures that any small areas you miss painting don't show up as shiny brass.
This is particularly useful with railings; I normally spray railings overall black whilst on the fret, then brush-paint the individual stanchions with the hull colour once they're on the model, leaving the rails/chains black - minimising the paint buildup and unpainted spots that I usually get when brush-painting the whole railing.

When working with PE, I tend to do the following:

If the PE is going to be a different colour to the part it's going to be glued to (for example deck edge railings) then I paint them on the fret and touch up after applying them to the model. However, if the PE is going to be the same colour as the parts it is attached to, such as ladders, then I'll attach them to the parts prior to painting.

Like Pachi, I find it much easier to bend the PE prior to attaching it to the model.

John

thank you that is a real help. best find a nice pice of glass then and I can get started.

The more knowledgeable people will chime in, but from a novice like me, a couple tips:

Cut it over a piece of glass, since this is the best way to get the cut exactly where you want it, being the glass completely flat and rigid. To bend parts like railing, I take the part over the glass, apply pressure with a blade flat over it on the spot where it is to be bent, and slide another blade beneath the part turning it upwards, pressing against the first one while turning. I particularly prefer bending it before installation, but others like the other way round better. It�s a wonder for me how they get those clean, straight bends without a flat surface to work with. Same applies to paint. Some paint the parts before cutting them,while others paint after they are glued in place. In all, PE needs just a little push forward to yourself, turning out an easy and very rewarding experience.

Hope this helps.
Pachi.

Finally the bits I have order have arrived and a new kit (Still waiting for the Yamato but It will be a while before I start it anyway). My question is On Photoetech as it will be the first time I have used it and want to get it right. The two kits I am starting or have started are the Markgraf (ICM 1:350) and the Oriol (Zevzda 1:350). I have phototech for both but as I said do not want to start working with it until I have gone through the pit falls of working with it so I can get the best result. Advice would be most appreciated but till then I will keep working at my T2 Tanker lol.