The Ship Model Forum

by **Sauragnmon** » Tue May 13, 2008 12:30 am

I agree with Reigels, I use a chisel-style Xacto blade, backside, for applying my own putty, it works quite nicely, that and you can use it to shape quite nicely when working in straight edges. The Bondo spot/glazing putty is quite nice stuff, granted it smells a little heavy when applying, but not completely horrible, and my main room is pretty well ventilated so it doesn't linger too long as long as I don't do something stupid like shove my nose in it. I've used it on both of my latest projects.It dries pretty quickly unless you use heavy gobs, but still you can put it down and go do something like take your wife to the chiropractor, and it's done when you get back.

by **Jrunco83** » Mon May 12, 2008 7:00 pm

lol i tried the search button for this topic before i posted one and it can up nothing

but this thread has helped me out more than you would know

by **reigels** » Sat Apr 12, 2008 1:07 pm

Karsten wrote:Try Bondo Brand Glazing/Spot Putty available at Auto Parts stores. It is around $3.00 for a 4.5 ounce tube.

Karsten

It's the only tube putty I'll use. Be sure to squeeze a blob onto a non-absorbant surface and mix if needed. I don't recommend applying any putty directly from the tube since the solvents will seperate over time. My applicator of choice is a large handled chissle X-acto blade used like a putty knife. Bits of sheet styrene are ok applicators as well, especially over curved surfaces.

Also, while you're in the auto parts store, be sure to pick up some 1500 grit micro-fine wet/dry paper (and 600 and 400 grit if you don't have any). Sand paper is cheap and (like #11 knife blades) should be treated as a readily consumable item.

by **Jeffcsr** » Sat Apr 12, 2008 12:13 pm

Karsten wrote:Try Bondo Brand Glazing/Spot Putty available at Auto Parts stores. It is around $3.00 for a 4.5 ounce tube.

Karsten

Gotta Highly Recommend this stuff!!! I finally got tired of the Squadron green/white putties and tried this stuff after seeing & reading of it's use here. I tried the 3M brand Glazing Putty many years ago and didn't like it cuz it took the longest to dry.

This Bondo brand is Awesome!! It bonds, covers, and dries quickly... I can putty, sand, and repeat in shorter time than most putties I've used in the past. I was sure it had to have some draw backs but after I primered one ship hull using Testors Model Masters Enamel (yes I'm still in the stone age) it came out Great!

by **MartinL** » Thu Feb 14, 2008 8:31 pm

thanx for the ideas,i will try some and hopfully find one that works for me.
on a side note,how on earth did somebody discover that baking soda and ca work together,i hope that one works for me becouse its got that mad scientist tilt to it

by **les** » Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:13 am

I think you can also use baking soda for the filler with CA.

by **finnfan** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 1:56 pm

Something I have used occasionally is CA glue with a "filler". In my case this has been a product called Roket Powder from a UK supplier called De Luxe Materials. I believe that sodium bicarbonate can be used to similar effect but I have never used it myself. The advantage of using the Roket Powder is that as well as gap filling you can build up damaged edges as once the powder is added to the CA , it sets hard in seconds and can be filed or sanded. Unlike other filler it adheres well to most surfaces. The only disadvantage is that when it has set, the compound may be harder than the surface it has been applied to leading to over sanding of the original.

by **Yevgeniy** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 12:53 pm

Thank you for the feedback - this was my idea.

Yevgeniy

by **Karsten** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 11:53 am

Yevgeniy wrote:I am glad that this question is raised as I wanted to hear comments on my idea as to filling gaps/building-up.

My question is whether anybody tried to use Acrylic Gel (sold in baumarkets/construction shops as hermetic substance) for filling gaps. I used it (to learn making water instead of Acrylic Gel Medium sold normally in artist shops) and found that it dries rock-hard, is not sandy and can be chopped.

I am especially interested in results for RC models as I believe that shall correspond to higher requirements as to absence of seams.

Yevgeniy

I have used the Heavy Bodied Gel to fill seams and voids in resin where I didn't want to sand. Just let it get tacky and wipe smooth with a damp cloth, reapply as needed and re wipe.

Karsten

by **Yevgeniy** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 10:35 am

I am glad that this question is raised as I wanted to hear comments on my idea as to filling gaps/building-up.

My question is whether anybody tried to use Acrylic Gel (sold in baumarkets/construction shops as hermetic substance) for filling gaps. I used it (to learn making water instead of Acrylic Gel Medium sold normally in artist shops) and found that it dries rock-hard, is not sandy and can be chopped.

I am especially interested in results for RC models as I believe that shall correspond to higher requirements as to absence of seams.

Yevgeniy

by **Sean Hert** » Sat Feb 09, 2008 12:38 pm

You can try

Bondo-type Polyester putty
epoxy putty
layering styrene
melting styrene in model glue

by **Karsten** » Sat Feb 09, 2008 11:42 am

Try Bondo Brand Glazing/Spot Putty available at Auto Parts stores. It is around $3.00 for a 4.5 ounce tube.

Karsten

by **Gerarddm** » Sat Feb 09, 2008 11:33 am

You can dissolve styrene in MEK to a gooey paste and use that as filler. When it dries of course it IS plastic. I tried it once, with lousy results, but hey, that was me and I was impatient.

by **MartinL** » Sat Feb 09, 2008 11:15 am

at present i'm using sqadron green and white putty (white usless) but am finding it not very good when used to build up sufaces, its too powdery. What i'm after is something which when dries becomes more like the plastic its being aplied too,so it can be sanded and cut like the plastic.

any ideas anyone???

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