The Ship Model Forum

Les, thank you for taking time to answer and your tips

Yevgeniy

CA seems to work just fine. Again, I groove the mast with a round file to give it a good contact area. I also use fish line for rigging. It stays straight and doesn't have to have much pressure to make it straight.

Les,

Thank you very much for taking time to answer this. I will use your tip - making grooves sounds a great idea.

How do you handle metal joints with 1/72 and 1/125? Soldering? I think about making some Revell Uboots and hopefully their Fletcher.

Yevgeniy

I would consider it small. I work in 1/125 to 1/72. If you're doing a cross pieice on a mast you might try to fill a small grove in the mast to give you more mating surface.

Thank you Les and Rob,

I am working with 1:350. Syringe needles are of 0,6 milimeters in diameter. Is it small?

Yevgeniy

If you are working to a small scale then superglue will do fine.

Cheers,

Rob

If you're working in a small scale, CA would probably do the job. But, if you're doing a larger scale I would think it would be better to soldering would be better. You might PM ARH as he does quite a bit of that kind of work.

Hi all!

Would you share your experience of making "metal to metal" joints? For example when you make masts from metal tubing.

Sometime ago I saw a suggestion on MW to make mast cross-pieces (beams, anthenna and the like) not from plastic but from syringe needles. To me it is a most satisfactory suggestion since it allows to have firm parts and also to tighten rigging stronger.

I have WEM metal mast and want to use needles for other parts on the mast. Super Glue does not seam a perfect solution for this. I plan to try soldering - but so far I am not an expert with this.

How do you handle this questions? Thank you in advance

Yevgeniy
P.S. On the one hand it is a good thing that old topics are deleted from forum to make free space - but on the other hand it requires asking same questions after some time.