The Ship Model Forum

Much appreciated!!!
:thumbs_up_1:

........>>> bringing this up the board for the benefit of recent members ....<<<

every 4-5 years or so anyhow! :wave_1:
JIM B

bringing this up the board for the benefit of recent members


JIM B :wave_1:

Great tip using the resin dust with CA as a filler. I would recommend going to a respirator instead of a dust mask.
Thanks Jim
Dave

>>>> If you do not have a bandsaw, a decent hadsaw could also do the job. <<<

main issue is being able to clamp it safely and securely without damaging the hull casting details...?

Certainly some resin hulls from manufacturers such as Kombrig are in two parts- and hollow ..
much easing the process.

Its never wrong to innovate further :thumbs_up_1: --the sanding merely works for me... :wave_1:


JB

I am not a waterline builder, but it seems to me that using a bandsaw to cut the hull in half would save a lot of sanding, and make a lot less mess.

If you do not have a bandsaw, a decent hadsaw could also do the job.

bump....!


Still a pertinent evergreen subject....

JB

With Kym Knight having done a most excellent sequence on waterlining 1/350 hulls


http://www.modelwarships.com/features/how-to/waterlining-350-kn/index.html



I thought it may be useful to bring this up the board again... :wave_1:


Jim Baumann

Interestingly... Kombrig are running a customer poll in the manufacturers forum.

http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=43121&start=0

waterline or not--maybe this will be of interest to them or any prospective 1/350 resin kit purchaser...

JIM B

Sorry to bump...

but I guessed it was still a pertinent post...!

:wave_1: :wave_1:

Jim Baumann

a couple more...

JB :wave_1:[attachment=1]22 august 2008 097.jpg[/attachment][attachment=0]22 august 2008 098.jpg[/attachment]

The Kombrig 1/350 kits are really very nice--I have the 1/350 Askold in build- (supended at the moment)

They represent quite good value--obscure and esoteric subjects in finely cast resin.

The weakest kit of the bunch is the first kit released -Retvisan-- overscale deck planking... can be replaced.. but...

3501 Retvizan Russian Battleship 1902
3502 Askold Russian Cruiser 1902
3503 Novik Russian Cruiser 1902
3504 Boyarin Russian Cruiser 1903
3505 Nisshin IJN Cruiser
3506 Kasuga IJN Cruiser

Here a a few quick snaps of my Kombrig 1/350 resin kit of the IJN Nisshin

The upper and lower hulls are cast separately--and both parts are hollow.[attachment=2]22 august 2008 094.jpg[/attachment][attachment=1]22 august 2008 095.jpg[/attachment][attachment=0]22 august 2008 096.jpg[/attachment]

[quote="JIM BAUMANN"]I have no photo of a kit on my PC-but can take pics tomorrow if anyone is interested ....[/quote]

I would like to see such. What have they done in 350th? There's still a big difference in mass between a 350 BB hull and a 350 DD.

Interestingly...

Kombrigs 1/350 resin kit range features very light, stable hollow hulls, upper and lower

the skin thickness of the hulls are akin to injection moulded hulls.

I have no photo of a kit on my PC-but can take pics tomorrow if anyone is interested ...

JIM B :wave_1:

Hi Ron,

A good point there. I imagine these large casts are made from pretty standard polyeurethanes which would certainly have an uneven shrink rate between the two halves, I aggree with you there. There is probably a resin that would fit the bill, but it may not be economical for a cottage industry as you said. I guess sanding is the only option for now :(.

[quote="Will J"]This makes no sense to me, why not make the hull two part with a hollow centre? It uses way less resin (resin varies between �8-15 per kilo, that's got to be at least 3 or 4) and gives modellers more options. Kudos for your initiative here, but IMHO you shouldn't have to do it. Everyone wins like that, yeh, it's a little extra work during master making but surely customer satisfaction is worth the extra time?[/quote]

The problem there is the way resin shrinks a little when curing, in 1/700 and 1/350 you risk distortion if the mass of resin around the cavity isn't the same on all sides. You might be able to do it on the center third of a BB in 1/350 with little risk but I don't think you could do it on most cruisers or DD's in that scale. Manufacturers *could* switch to a resin that doesn't have the differential shrinkage problem but that means a much slower cure time, like 16 hours per casting, not an efficient solution for cottage industry manufacturing.

This makes no sense to me, why not make the hull two part with a hollow centre? It uses way less resin (resin varies between �8-15 per kilo, that's got to be at least 3 or 4) and gives modellers more options. Kudos for your initiative here, but IMHO you shouldn't have to do it. Everyone wins like that, yeh, it's a little extra work during master making but surely customer satisfaction is worth the extra time?

I keep trying to convince people, use a jig on a 10" tablesaw with an 80 tooth carbide blade and just use the built in ripfence. Even better with a dust collector running, little muss, no fuss.

[quote="modelmanuk"]Jim,
have you ever tried a band saw to cut most of the hull off then the belt sander to finish as thats what i do as its quicker and less dust,

Peter :thumbs_up_1:[/quote]
That's what I did with my America cup racer "Endeavor". great big hunk of resin! See my gallery here. It was a beautifuly cast full hull but I wanted to show her under sail with the wind off her quarter, hull listing over... I attached a wood 2x4 to her lower hull with drywall screws..pre-drilled holes in the lower hull to acept these screws..We had already marked the hull with a waterline gauge where we wanted her to list.. Ive a good friend with a complete machine and woodworking shop..We set up his band saw to the correct angle with a fence in place...We could then slide her through in one pass with the 2x4 against the fence..scary as you dont know how the resin will react to being cut...She didnt melt and went through as pretty as you please.. My friend chuck Smith who also has a gallery here has also called on our friend to cut his plastic ships in the same manner.. takes a little work to set up but your hull is good to go in one pass... cheers BC

My god Jim, you better ensure that you have a large number of dust masks with all that dust - you may need to get a breathing mask. Take care.

Interesting article. I enjoy your work very much.

Bill :wave_1: