by Timmy C » Tue Sep 15, 2009 12:03 am
Thanks for all the replies guys!
@Kostas: As I painted my deck with acrylics, I'm not sure if it'll be a good idea to use oils on it. It's too late to put on barrier coats, too, unfortunately. Maybe next time, hehe.
The rigging is almost finished! Only the two long foremast-bow runs need to be done.
As I have terrible luck with using incense to tighten rigging, I try to make sure they're taut before putting the glue on. In order to make the lines taut, you need to have a strong anchor point at at least one end of the line. Many of the lines terminate at a solid surface perpendicular to the line's direction. In order to not have the line's attachment point to be off-center, I make a small metal eyehook and pass the line through that. Thus, I can apply pressure to the line while maintaining an attachment point relatively close to where it's supposed to be and have a strong attachment point.
In the past two days, I've switched to Uni-Mono nylon monofilament line as my rigging material. It is roughly the same diameter as my medium-size stretched sprue. The main reason of this is due to my inability to reliably stretch sprue that is of consistent diameter.
Asides from constant diameter, an additional benefit of using fly-tying line is that you can tie it! Thus, an even stronger attachment can be done.
The clear property of the line is a mixed blessing - if not under direct light, it will appear dull and the transparentness means it can appear thinner than it actually is. However, if viewed from a different direction, the clearness may bend and focus light from different directions, making the line more obvious to the viewer (and thus appearing thicker than it actually is).
- Attachments
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- Circled are the small hoops that I pass the lines through.
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Thanks for all the replies guys!
@Kostas: As I painted my deck with acrylics, I'm not sure if it'll be a good idea to use oils on it. It's too late to put on barrier coats, too, unfortunately. Maybe next time, hehe.
The rigging is almost finished! Only the two long foremast-bow runs need to be done.
As I have terrible luck with using incense to tighten rigging, I try to make sure they're taut before putting the glue on. In order to make the lines taut, you need to have a strong anchor point at at least one end of the line. Many of the lines terminate at a solid surface perpendicular to the line's direction. In order to not have the line's attachment point to be off-center, I make a small metal eyehook and pass the line through that. Thus, I can apply pressure to the line while maintaining an attachment point relatively close to where it's supposed to be and have a strong attachment point.
In the past two days, I've switched to Uni-Mono nylon monofilament line as my rigging material. It is roughly the same diameter as my medium-size stretched sprue. The main reason of this is due to my inability to reliably stretch sprue that is of consistent diameter.
Asides from constant diameter, an additional benefit of using fly-tying line is that you can tie it! Thus, an even stronger attachment can be done.
The clear property of the line is a mixed blessing - if not under direct light, it will appear dull and the transparentness means it can appear thinner than it actually is. However, if viewed from a different direction, the clearness may bend and focus light from different directions, making the line more obvious to the viewer (and thus appearing thicker than it actually is).