by Mike Reading » Thu Mar 12, 2009 12:23 pm
Yes the rippling can look pretty pronounced on the actual ship but if overdone on the model it will look all wrong if you will pardon me so saying.
Bearing in mind that on the ship the plates have deflected inwards between the frames/background support structure. If you build the model with that structure replicated - quite easy to do, although a bit tedious, by fixing appropriately sized strips to the hull (after first of all reducing its length/width, etc to compensate for the thickness of the strips). Then to that add the plates to the correct scale size. Thin aluminium sheet (printers litho) is absolutely first rate for this. Best to put the ripple effect into each plate before fixing it in place. It's a slow process but achieves the effect you'll want at 1:72 scale.
As an added touch, using very, very fine wire run along each plate joint, you can replicate the raised bead of the welds.
All a labour of love, and good luck.
Mike Reading
Yes the rippling can look pretty pronounced on the actual ship but if overdone on the model it will look all wrong if you will pardon me so saying.
Bearing in mind that on the ship the plates have deflected inwards between the frames/background support structure. If you build the model with that structure replicated - quite easy to do, although a bit tedious, by fixing appropriately sized strips to the hull (after first of all reducing its length/width, etc to compensate for the thickness of the strips). Then to that add the plates to the correct scale size. Thin aluminium sheet (printers litho) is absolutely first rate for this. Best to put the ripple effect into each plate before fixing it in place. It's a slow process but achieves the effect you'll want at 1:72 scale.
As an added touch, using very, very fine wire run along each plate joint, you can replicate the raised bead of the welds.
All a labour of love, and good luck.
Mike Reading