The Ship Model Forum

before you use solvaset you better try a decal that you dont need from the same sheet, it will make a decal conform to any surface but it can also melt some decals. when using solvaset or micro sol drip it on and dont touch it till its completly dry or you will have problems

Thanks a lot for the replies - most helpful!

Ditto what Timmy C said as far as they why. I'd also add that if you want to do any weathering, a clear coat will protect your paint from solvents like turpenoid, white spirits, etc, that you may use for a wash to weather the model. Future has a self leveling property and I find that it helps to reduce the demarcations between colors in multi color paint jobs.

As to the how, I do the whole model, not just the area where I am going to place decals. One reason is to generally protect the paint job as I usually do this in stages as I finish painting a section (hull, main deck, various sub assemblies, etc.) and it acts as a shield during the build process. Also, though I have no proof of this from anything I've tried myself, I suspect that applying gloss coat in splotches would effect the final finish after the last dull coat (or whatever your final coat is). I just personally prefer a dull final finish to my models, so I use a dull coat as my final coat.

I hope this has been helpful to you. If you have any other questions I might be able to help you with, feel free to PM me. You have come to the right place for great advice on how to improve your modeling skills and techniques.

Bob

The clear gloss provide a smooth uniform surface for the decals to lie on, minimizing/eliminating "silvering" (the clear film around the decals).

I've always been confused by the references to a clear gloss coat first. Why do this? And do you apply the clear gloss coat over the while model, or only in patches where the decals will go?

This is my method. Once your paint is cured out apply a clear gloss coat. Future floor polish shot uncut out of the airbrush works great for this, believe it or not. I think now they call it "Johnson's Floor Polish With Future Shine". It can also be brushed on. Its self leveling and makes a great surface to receive the decal. Once that is dry, and I usually let it sit for 12 to 24 hours to be fully cured, apply the decal. I soak the decal in water in the usual way, then apply a pool of Microscale Micro Set where the decal is to be placed. This lets the decal remain mobile after placement and also helps the bond and allows the decal to better conform to minor surface details/imperfections. Gently position the decal and then blot the excess water/Microset with a lint free tissue or paper towel.

If there are a lot of surface details or compound curves the decal has to conform to I then brush the decal with Microscale Micro Sol. This softens the decal to let it conform to the details or curves of the surface. I brush the Micro sol onto the decal and simply let it evaporate. The decal will settle into the details as it does. There is a hotter solvent product, Microscale Solvaset, but I've never used it, so I can't speak to it.

Finally, after the decaling is done, apply a final clear gloss or dull coat, depending on the final finish you want. I use a dull finish and usually finish off with Testor's Dullcote, cut 50/50 with lacquer thinner.

I hope this helps and I'm sure you'll get lots of other good tips here.

Bob

Without placing my head on the block, may I say this question has probably been asnwered before. However, there's no excuse in my book why someone should not offer some advice to your question.
Front deck of an aircraft carrier huge numbers/letters after applying decals shine and show off the outer edges of the decal, looks completely rubbish doesn't it ? Same place this time you'll use gloss varnish, normally paint on that once dry will look like a section rather then a section, once dry apply the decal, press very gently releasing any water, only once completely dry, apply a coat of ''MATT'' varnish this will hold the decal in place reduce the outer decal edge, but will also slightly reduce the surrounding colour, if done correctly you should be able to view the decal in any location as if it were painted on. Good luck.

Can anybody advise on the best way to apply the decals to the deck of 1/350 carrier[uss hancock]i have ruined the 2 that go over the elevators on the flight deck and am hoping i can get new ones somewhere[they look like giant xs]the two 19s were not that easy either[for me]so any help is greatly appreciated.I looked in the tips and tricks threads but couldn't find anything.thanks Anthony