The Ship Model Forum

Ted wrote:Continuing along with this theme, how much would you reduce the bow and stern on a sharply pointed hull? The same as on the hull sides, or slightly more to account for the point?

You would have to reduce the length of the model by the same amount, bow and stern.

Continuing along with this theme, how much would you reduce the bow and stern on a sharply pointed hull? The same as on the hull sides, or slightly more to account for the point?

I would say so Brett, good luck with your build.

Hi Admiral

Thanks for that Ron; what I just wasn't clear on (having never done it) was after seeing you guys doing the fibre mat and epoxy coats was how thick is that process? So i take it a 1/4" would be sufficient for a hull skin of ply and glass over the top.

Cheers
Brett

Hi You have more or less answered your own question, if you are useing 1/8 ply + a thin matting and a coat of fibra glass 1/8 inch, added together 1/4 each side.

Hi Guys

I have a two pronged question relating to hull skin thickness. It is generally accepted that as a scratch builder you need to reduce your hull line drawings so hull frames, when cut, are of a reduced size to allow for hull skin thickness? To me, this is logical; if you are only using ply (sheet of plank) for the skin then it should be relatively easy to work out what frame reduction you need to accommodate the desired thickness of ply you want for the hull skin?

However, if my intention is to ply first and then fibreglass over the top, for added strength, how does one determine an "average" thickness to allow for, for an "average" glass coat to ensure scale beam is not under or over. I appreciate we are probably only talking about millimetres here but would appreciate any advice you much more learned modellers might be able to offer me?

Cheers Brett