The Ship Model Forum

I also use the method of settting the boat on a flat surface and marking with a pencil moved along the length of the hull then checking the height at the bow and stern. Some of the hobby tool mail order houses actually have a tool for this - in the United Stataes Micromark comes to mind. To paint it I use a bit different method. First I paint the hull black (or a wide black stripe along the hull over the previously marked out boot topping. Then I use drafting tape to cover the line of boot topping. Drafting tape can be found in any store that sells art and drafting supplies and it comes in small roles and in various widths. The only place this gives trouble is if there is a step curve such as a very rounded stern. In that situation I sometimes have to use a couple over lapping layers. Then I tape an "apron" over the lower hull and spray the upper hull colors and when dry move the apron up top and spray the lower hull (or vice versa if you wish). When all is dry peel off tgh drafting tape and the line is straight and regular.
Mike

Tamiya masking tape is really good stuff, if a bit pricy.

One comment about using tape: the edges of the tape roll should be protected so that the edge of the tape is
perfectly straight. Tamiya tape comes in a dispenser which protects the edges.

[b]Here are some photos of [i]HMS Duke of York[/i] being built from Tamiya's 1/350 [i]KGV[/i].[/b] The boot stripe was
masked using Tamiya tape.

[i]Click on the thumbnail to view larger pictures.[/i]

[url=http://www.warshipmodels.com/~users/SteveLarsen/IM001562.jpg][img]http://www.warshipmodels.com/~users/SteveLarsen/IM001562small.jpg[/img][/url]

[url=http://www.warshipmodels.com/~users/SteveLarsen/IM001563.jpg][img]http://www.warshipmodels.com/~users/SteveLarsen/IM001563small.jpg[/img][/url]

[url=http://www.warshipmodels.com/~users/SteveLarsen/IM003348.jpg][img]http://www.warshipmodels.com/~users/SteveLarsen/IM003348small.jpg[/img][/url]

[url=http://www.warshipmodels.com/~users/SteveLarsen/IM003349.jpg][img]http://www.warshipmodels.com/~users/SteveLarsen/IM003349small.jpg[/img][/url]

Since I only do 1/700 waterline kits I just paint the red bottom plate black around the edge and glue it on after painting the hull its very neat then.

You might consider purchasing the "Boot Topping Decals" set from L'arsenal.

http://www.larsenal.com/Source/catalogue/larsenal/AC_400_22.jpg

Here you can read the review of this decal set :

http://www.steelnavy.com/LArsenalDecalsBootTopping.htm

Very handy, especially working with smaller ships.

Srul :wave_1:

I had issues before with this, and thankfully most of the painful mistakes have faded away ever since me joining this forum :thumbs_up_1:

Here is what I do for my ships. If you have an Autozone or some specialty car store, I would recommend visiting. They will usually have automotive tape for painting cars, I use Scotch's automotive tape. It is not very tacky, sticks on very well, and allows very little seepage. A note on seepage:

To combat seepage, I learned an amazing trick from a few of the builders here on the forums. Tape up the hull line as carefully as possible, then double check it (it's what I do). I then begin to mask the upper portions of the hull to make sure I dont accidentally spray up there. From here, a can of clear coat can be sprayed onto the boot line. Let it dry for the recommended time (4 hours I'd say, but properly give it a full 24 hours). This seals the tape undereath. Another way is to spray the clear coat first, then mask off the boot stripe, then spray again. This further seals the tape and will minimize seepage.

Still get seepage? I do from time to time. You can use an x-acto knife and scrape, but you MUST be careful not to scratch or pit the plastic; if you do it will take quite a bit of patch up work. Automotive stores will also have fine grit sandpaper; I have been using 1000 grit and have never had any real problems. You can wet sand (top coat the "good" paint job first!) the problem areas and usually get away with it.

Good luck :thumbs_up_1:

I do it like this

first, mark the line: (case it's not marked on the hull)
place the hull on your table (or its stand) stably, so the distance table-waterline is equal on the bow and stern. Take a good (preferrably automatic) pencil which leaves a thin but well-visible mark on your surface. Do a stander for the pencil, using pieces of scrap wood and plastic, so the pencil's tip is the same height as a waterline. move the pencil assembly around the hull, leaving a marking for the lower end of the boot topping. Now, add another wedge to raise the pencil by an appropriate height, and mark the upper end. Now mask and paint. I use tamiya masking tape for small details, vynil electronic isolation tape, and wallpaper cover tape for larger ones.

I paint a wide black stripe about where the boot top is then mask what will be the lower edge of the boot and shoot the lower hull, demask, repeat for the top edge of the boot. Normally I try to work from photos or drawings that show the boot top, some ships have a tapered boot and some, like commissioned Liberties have extremely wide boots.

I just use regular painters tape its much cheaper and you get a lot if pushed into place well enough it should have little to no seaping of paint its very thick too allowing you to cover more should you want to. But if any does spill under a quicktouch up with a brush never hurts...

thanks everyone for the help and advice, its much appreciated!!!!!!!!!!! :jump_1:

You can always cut a boot stripe from black decal paper. I've used it with good results.

One method ive heard of but never tried is to but a piece of masking tape to the size of the stripe and lay it on the model where you cant it to go. Then just mask the top and bottom and peel of the masking tape stripe and paint.

Working a lot with resin, I find that black electrical tape works best. Doesn't buckle or pull, keeps paint out and doesn't pull it off when removed. On this side of the pond, 3M makes a black artist's/hobby tape that works as good or better than electrical tape.

Hi guest, were you also asking how to establish the waterline in the first place? If the hull is not already marked with a line from the mold (some models are not) you can get a good line with a simple drafters compass (the kind for making pencil circles on paper) place the hull on a smooth flat surface, if the hull is not flat bottomed make sure the main deck is level to the surface of the table. you may have to devise some way to hold it from shifting, usually tape will work. establish your waterline height in one spot on the ship. take your compass and set so that one side rests on the table and the pencil point is resting on your waterline mark and holding it at that angle trace all the way around the hull. Do it a couple times so that you are reasonably sure that your trace angle is consistent if you have never done anything like this before.
The most critical thing there is to hold the compass at the same angle to the table all the way around the ship. This method is called "scribing" by finish carpenters.

thanks guys thats a big help!!! if anyone else has other methods they could add it would be appreciated!! :smallsmile:

An easy and very effective method is to use vinyl tape, you can get this in the UK from Cammetts - http://www.cammett.co.uk. Comes in a variety of thicknesses including some about 1mm.

Mike

Masking tape. I would recommend using the Tamiya brand masking tape. I used that to mask out a splinter camouflage on a 1:350 Tirpitz and then the black stripe and it was almost flawless. Of course, practice makes perfect. :big_grin: happy modelling

hello everyone from Australia :wave_1: i was wondering what is the best method for painting the boot stripe on a ships hull? how does one mark it out and get it straight? is there any tried and true methods and or "easy" methods? any help and guides would be really appreciated! i would also like to say this is a great site with some great info etc :thumbs_up_1: