The Ship Model Forum

This is a newbie question, so please pardon the ignorance. I have never worked on these and I am also intimidated. Question is, do wooden decks still need to be painted or stained? Or just leave them as they are (provided I can install them successfully)? I'm wondering about painting them because, wouldn't these wooden decks look too brand new?

Thanks very much,

Joseph

I used a spray adhesive similar to 3M 77 spray works well if you can get a good even coat, not to easy on smaller pieces where I brushed it on after spraying the adhesive in the the plastic top.

Norman

Went to the garage tonight and tried a test. Cut out some scrap self-adhesive deck, removed the plastic backing, and brushed artists matte medium onto the glue side. It dried beautifully without any tack remaining or other complications. This killed the sticker nicely. I then Used the same artists matte medium to affix it to a junker model deck that was primed. I didn't bother putting matte medium on the 'show' side. I glued the dedking down by brushing some onto the deck and onto the the wood sheet then pressing them together while wet. I left it for a few hours and it holds beautifully and will remain so for years without lifting or problems/discolouration etc. The process was very clean and neat with lots of room for endless repositioning and adjusting.
I'm currently building the 1/72nd Snowberry Corvette and have been scared to use the decking for fear of not being able to fiddle with the fit etc. once down. The high tack glue scares me too much! I'm confident now that this other way will work great.

Here's a thought:
1. peel the deck piece off the sheet and place it face up on a table (sticky side up).
2.Brush matte acrylic artists medium over the adhesive to kill the glue. Let it dry, then flip the piece over and brush more matte medium over the planks. It goes on smooth, clear, and soaks into the sheet. The purpose of doing this might be to give the sheet greater integrity and protection before cutting out small details and holes in the piece. It would also allow for lots of dry fitting and protection from accidental paint spills etc.
3. come glue down time, there's no panic about the crazy strong, instant tack of the deck 'sticker'. Instead, brush clear GEL artist's medium on the deck and the sheet. Gel medium is an excellent adhesive when used in this way and has reduced potential for warping the wood through excess moisture. You can position the deck and move it around until you're happy. Wipe away the excess and let it dry.

There might be a few advantages to doing it this way. Moulded deck lines might actually be beneficial as a tooth for the gel medium, so wouldn't need to be sanded off. You have an open time to position the sheet before it dries in place, the wood is protected from dirt/damage and has been stiffened. Any integrity issues with the laser printing that could cause plank separation are mitigated by the matte medium that has soaked in and effectively glued things together invisibly.
Possibly issues could be: If the decks are not glued down to the hull before attachment, the wood might shrink and curve the piece downwards without possibility of correction....maybe. I don't know.
I really like the idea of killing the sticky deck glue and using something more friendly and workable. Also more archival potentially. I would only glue decking to a well primed surface. I don't trust water based glues/mediums and plastic. They just don't stick.

Have one myself and I'm too afraid to do it Got a tip from a fellow Dutch modeller:

- Frisk masking film:



- first put your deck onto this film.
- then position your deck and peel of the back of the film. In positioning first take a point and line up the deck, after that give it is definitive place.

This way it would leave more time to position the deck in the correct place. I didn't try it myself but it looks a good method to me.

This stuff is also used by the commercial guys who make the car lettering etc.

sargentx wrote:Good luck with the decking. I ruined my 1/400 Titanic attempting the self-adhering deck. I sanded off all the detail, which effectively forced the use of the self-adhering deck. To my horror, whenever I attempted to peel the backing off the stuff, all the thousands of little "planks" started tearing away from each other. I probably did it wrong, but once you peel the clear plastic backing off, there seems to be little to no integrity to the deck pattern. Has anyone else experienced this? And be extra sure that when you touch that decking to the model, you get it right. The glue is so sticky it can't be removed without ruining the deck sheet. I honestly don't know how people get it to work. I'd love to know some thoughts.

Wow, I've not done a wooden deck yet, but I do have three future projects with them. Even though I've not done one, it seems to me you had a faulty product. The plank cutting was too deep. I'd contact the manufacturer.

Would also like to hear how others have done it.

I would have thought that if the planks are coming away as separate items then the deck itself has been 'over' laser cut as it should have just had them burnt into the surface.
I have only ever used Pontos models decks and having just fitted the 1/200 Bismarck with its main deck can vouch that they are no trouble. As Pontos advised l whetted the sticky side first (just put water on with a brush) and then positioned and moved as required then pushed down and allowed it to dry out in its own time - any slight bubbles were just flattened down with no problem.
Very pleased in their use and finish.

Alan

Good luck with the decking. I ruined my 1/400 Titanic attempting the self-adhering deck. I sanded off all the detail, which effectively forced the use of the self-adhering deck. To my horror, whenever I attempted to peel the backing off the stuff, all the thousands of little "planks" started tearing away from each other. I probably did it wrong, but once you peel the clear plastic backing off, there seems to be little to no integrity to the deck pattern. Has anyone else experienced this? And be extra sure that when you touch that decking to the model, you get it right. The glue is so sticky it can't be removed without ruining the deck sheet. I honestly don't know how people get it to work. I'd love to know some thoughts.

En-TACT wrote:...to adhere full contact to the hull, I reasoned to scrape off all deck surface details and paint where the wooden deck will make contact.

Interesting thought. I've always been a proponent though that if I worry that much about my paint adhering to the model, then I need a better paint job.

...you can guess which side of the primer vs no primer argument I fall on.

I too bought a KA Models Wooden Deck for 1/700 Yamato, and yes no instructions. I read somewhere here the adhesive is strong once applied. However, to adhere full contact to the hull, I reasoned to scrape off all deck surface details and paint where the wooden deck will make contact.

I'm going to try a wooden deck for the first time on my 1/200 Arizona. It is the one that comes with KA Models DX Pack for the ship and it does have a self adhesive back. However, it does not come with any instructions on how it is intended to be applied. Any tips?

I know the Pontos Models decks recommend spray a bit of water on the two surfaces to aid in small adjustments in position and then wiping all the excess water away. Is a similar method recommended on the KA Models stuff? Or is it a matter of being very careful with the positioning while sticking it on? I must admit I'm a little apprehensive about spraying such a thin wood deck with water for fears of warping.