The Ship Model Forum

Thanks everyone for the responces. It has helped me tremendously. I ended up using a little bit from multiple posts. I tested this on a spare piece I had from my last build and it worked great. Looking forward to doing this on my Hornet!

I will weigh in here....this is my personal biased opinion...

I do not prime any PE- ever...

I would never add an additional non-colour-contributory layer of paint to soften up the sharpness of PE and give round edges ...

( unless this is desired!)- sometimes PE is used for sytructires that have round edges...!


Airbrushing should probably work best- for most people!!-

again-I would not prime--and certainty not from a rattlecan

due to unpredictable spray pattern and too much paint for a given volume of air
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


Were it me....?

........ if the part is not attached to the model....


I brush paint that type of thing with thinned (enamel) paint with the PE parts sitting on good quality- ie non fuzzy- kitchen towel.

The kitchen towel wicks thru any excess paint

I would then follow up using my airbrush--with air only-- to blast any excess paint away

Sounds odd?-- I like the solidity of coverage that I get from a brush

old fashioned but effective.

Did I already mention that paint device with built-in hole-blow-through-technology: the airbrush Doesn't clog up holes < 0.1 mm /0.004" (about the smallest size of PE perforations). The humbrol enamels gave better coverage and bite that some of the modeling primers I used (i.e., not the automotive primers).

The downside of this could be that at a farther distance the paint particles dried up before hitting the PE part.

I normally use a handbrush and just blow through the holes (with my super-breath abilities) ... works fine for me ... the drinking-straw is something to consider, thanks for that!


Happy modelling ~ Olaf!

A tidbit that may help, put the primer can in a pan of hot water before spraying-- though not boiling and NOT while on the stove-- for about 5 minutes, that may help atomize the contents for finer spraying.

Thanks for all the replies. These got me thinking that maybe if I use the primer from a farther distance it would work out better for things like this. Especially if I hold it up and not have the sprue laying down on it's back. I usually prime outside due to the smell. My wife can smell it across the house even with windows open and fans going. But airbrushing the paint could solve the issue as long as the primer does not start the issue. If not, you guys have given me plenty to try for fixing the paint.

Timmy C wrote:It's crude, but you can use the tip of your brush to try to clear the clogs (the hairs being much finer than any needle), though I'm not sure if the primer will have dried by the time you attempt this.

Well, I may have one that is even cruder .......

Let the paint start to set a little (not dry). Then go in with one of those aerosol dust blasters that have the straw attachment, using a linear motion to open the holes back up. You will need to experiment with your "trigger finger" and the distance from the PE part so you don't blow the paint off.

I actually use this to clean out 1/700 bridge windows (ladder stock) when CA fills them up. Careful with the direction you are shooting, the excess is going to end up somewhere.

First let me say that I use enamels so I don't usually prime my PE. I've never had a paint adherence issue. You might try multiple very fine coats, slowly building up until you have the coverage you want. I've found that multiple fine coats of paint have less of a tendency to plug up things like the perforations you are talking about.

I hope this is of some help to you.

Bob

It's crude, but you can use the tip of your brush to try to clear the clogs (the hairs being much finer than any needle), though I'm not sure if the primer will have dried by the time you attempt this.

Areosole can for the primer. Hand brushed the paint. The primer still clogged that way. Maybe it is something in my technique?

Do you use a brush or airbrush? The later usually doesn't clog up any detail.

I have stumbled on an issue and I am looking for a few ways to solve this from any of you guys.

Painting photo etch perforated catwalks and anything like them I seem to run into issues with the holes getting clogged up by either the primer or the paint (or both). Yet the holes are typically so fine that using a needle to punch them out does not usually work out too well.

I have been using Mr Surfacer 1000 to prime. I paint in acrylics. I found that if I don't prime, the paint barely sticks to the photo etch. Anything you guys can throw me to solve this I would REALLY appreciate.

Gabriel