The Ship Model Forum

Tom,

I think I mentioned in one of my posts, but here again - I'd recommend the Byrnes Saw - yes, a bit on the high side, but I've bought cheap tools before and always regretted it.

This is one of the best (if not THE best) mini table saws on the market for modelers. I would recommend purchasing a variety of saw blades with it as well as a spare belt (although I've had my saw over 5 years or more and am still on the original belt).

It doesn't offer a tilting blade but he does offer an add-on angled table if you're needing that (I haven't purchased that accessory).

Hope this helps,

Hank

Have had really good luck cutting thin stock with my monster (150 kg) cabinet makers table saw. Joint the outside and then cut such that the bulk of the wood is inside toward the fence. What might be more practical would be to get a hardwood supplier or cabinet shop make the cuts for you for a nominal fee. I have had my supplier do a few cuts of large pieces that I could have done but would have been a PItA.

Good luck! T

Chris

I'm curious what type of hardwood? Some of the very fine grained "hardwoods" are not actually that hard, particularly the ones used by modellers.

I have a great little circular saw (a Bohler) which will cut the finest of planking and strip wood. I think the German company that made these has gone bust though. A shame. Also these machines were not cheap but you get what you pay for.

Good modelling

Those Byrnes tools are beauties.... but as you say, expensive, particularly to ship to UK! Thanks for the advice re the bandsaw, I'll give it a go.

Chris

You asked for the "best", expect to pay!
Even better would be the Byrnes... you probably just missed this one:
http://members.boardhost.com/Warship/msg/1374176695.html


Alternative: Learn to cut straight with your bandsaw, and then possibly follow up with a thickness sander or planer:
1. Mark a cut on your board;
2. With no guide, cut as straight as you can (wood will likely be at some angle to the blade);
3. Stop halfway through, stop the saw, and clamp down your board;
4. Set a fence against your board, clamp it down.

Now you can use this fence for nice straight cuts with no wandering (as long as the blade doesn't wear appreciably, or have the tension reset, etc). Of course, your saw should be adjusted as well as possible (good blade, tension, rollers, guide head set as low as possible).

Chaps,

Can you recommend the best way to cut thin planks, accurately STRAIGHT, please. Band saws drift too much, and I must admit to feeling a little nervous about using a table saw with such small cuts required.... am talking about 5mm+ planks.

The proxxon ones look great, but are very expensive, particularly as I don't think they will cope with hardwood very well at a depth of 8mm (keel strips).

Any suggestions most gratefully received.

Thanks
Chris