The Ship Model Forum

I've used "worn effects" acrylic fluid from AK Interactive for paint chips on 1:700 liberty ship ( after a bit of practice ) I'm highly delighted wit the results.
Tony B.

I like what you're trying to do. I'm throwing together Tamiya's USS Fletcher in order to experiment in much the same way. I'm going to try to adapt the hairspray technique although as others have pointed out keeping it in scale for a 1/350 ship may be difficult. Mike Rinaldi's book [i]TankArt[/i] lays out the hairspray process in great detail - I have a copy at home and would be happy to summarize tonight if you think you'll find it helpful.

:doh_1: :good_one:

[quote="biggles2"]A note on the weathering techniques: the salt grain chipping simulates what happens to your brand new car when you drive it down a gravel road with lots of other fast traffic :Mad_6: - you gets lots of hard edged chipping. Except for accidents with other hard and solid objects, most weathering on ships' hulls is caused by wave action and erosion of the paint, especially seen on pics of WWll ships in the North Atlantic (although paint was poorer quality then, and applied more sparingly). I think the hairspray method represents better the removal of paint by wave action. :wave_1: But, whatever floats your boat! :big_grin:[/quote]

I've seen paint chip with hard edges from ships hulls just due to the flexing of the metal and corrosion from underneath eventually dislodging a solid piece of paint.

A note on the weathering techniques: the salt grain chipping simulates what happens to your brand new car when you drive it down a gravel road with lots of other fast traffic :Mad_6: - you gets lots of hard edged chipping. Except for accidents with other hard and solid objects, most weathering on ships' hulls is caused by wave action and erosion of the paint, especially seen on pics of WWll ships in the North Atlantic (although paint was poorer quality then, and applied more sparingly). I think the hairspray method represents better the removal of paint by wave action. :wave_1: But, whatever floats your boat! :big_grin:

Most of these weathering techniques have been developed with a much larger scale in mind (HO trains - 1/35 armor and larger) so it can be pretty tricky getting it to look real in 1/350 or smaller, although your results look good. On 1/35 armor, if you make a mistake, you can cover it with further weathering - snow, dirt, mud, etc. On ships you don't have such options. :Mad_6:

I am liking it too! :cool_2: Good thing you are not trying this on a 1/700 scale model......... :heh:



Bob Pink. :wave_1:

OK. Here's the "hairspray" stuff I tried. Note that I totally messed up the top of the hull in my haste, so, I've covered it up.

[img]http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/t561/Chris_Martens/null_zpsb82bb5e7.jpg[/img]

Pros: I have a little more control over WHERE I chip it.

Con: Well, control. One has to be REAL careful not to overdo it.

Again, I've added some light dulling and weathering for giggles.

Oh, and I also dulled out the original to see how I like it:

[img]http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/t561/Chris_Martens/null_zps011c4da9.jpg[/img]

Alright. Opinions are really, really appreciated. Tear it apart!

OK.

Salt Attempt #2:

Modifications: a) Smaller salt size
b) Paint thinned with Tamiya thinner

Woah. Difference makers. My chip size is in scale, and much more controlled. It looks a LITTLE more like my reference pictures, which makes me happy. I've used some washes and pastels to... rust it up a bit, but this is super rough and for proof of concept only. Also, I shot the hull with a lightened shade of the blue grey I'm using.... just for effect.

Opinions?



[img]http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/t561/Chris_Martens/null_zpsb1c203be.jpg[/img]

OK.

Salt Attempt #2:

Modifications: a) Smaller salt size
b) Paint thinned with Tamiya thinner

Woah. Difference makers. My chip size is in scale, and much more controlled. It looks a LITTLE more like my reference pictures, which makes me happy. I've used some washes and pastels to... rust it up a bit, but this is super rough and for proof of concept only. Also, I shot the hull with a lightened shade of the blue grey I'm using.... just for effect.

Opinions?



[img]http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/t561/Chris_Martens/null_zpsb1c203be.jpg[/img]

Another weathering technique. After primer 'paint' on small dots/spots and areas of liquid masker. Liquid latex also works very well. In either case the spots of masking should be quite thick - thicker than the average paint job. Paint on your surface color, and when dry, rub over the masked area with a rubber pencil eraser. The reason for making the masking spots thick is so you can see where they are under the paint job and don't miss any, and they are easier for the eraser to remove. The pencil eraser will remove and lift off the masking spots and leave areas of exposed primer. If you go to armor and model RR sites you can find these and other weathering techniques in more detail with pics. :wave_1:

Okay. Frustrated. Please note that the base coat blow looks like crap. I pretty much didn't care if I touched it. This is a test model, and nothing more.

Also, I'm just not too fond with the size of the salt particles. The individual grains tends to congregate in areas I do NOT want them. Either I'll need more practice on my "canvas hull" or I'm going to abandon this method.

My steps:

Prime with Mr Surfacer 1200 ---> Future ---> Use small dabs of water to place salt ---> Sprinkle salt on the hull ---> Allow to dry ---> Spray on Base Coat ---> NOTE ANNOYING DARK RINGS ---> Spray again. ---> Rings ---> Spray a lighter shade along hull ---> Let Dry ---> Remove Salt ---> Dark wash to try to blend in the dark rings. ---> Give up ---> Dull coat to see if that'll help.

Definitely do not profit. I'm using Tamiya acrylic paints. Perhaps the salt is entering solution and changing the shade? Should I dilute with Tamiya thinner instead?

Any help would be wonderful. I fear I'll run into the same issue with hair spray. Assuming I TOTALLY coat the hull with hairspray, I fear I'll end up with a hull a darker shade than the superstructure, assuming a similar reaction and contamination takes place.

....of course, this could ALL be due to using distilled water for my thinner. Who knows.

Picture:

[img]http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/t561/Chris_Martens/null_zpscbc038d2.jpg[/img]

Some guys are telling me to try using small grains of salt to try to keep the damage in scale. I'll have to investigate the hair spray thing. Tape'll be good for some more widespread damage... not sure I trust myself to cut pieces that small.

That link didn't work well at all! Briefly, paint your model in the primer color of choice; cover with a coat of Future (or Pledge), when dry thoroughly spray with cheapo hairspray (dollar store brand - no scent). When dry cover with your camo color (masking for patterns if neccessary). Immediately when dry use a stiff brush, or old toothbrush, and warm water to lightly scrub away the paint and hairspray down to the Future barrier exposing the primer color. Be selective in your paint removal - you can always take off a little more, but you can't replace if you take off too much! The hairspray under the final paint coats will dissolve and take the paint with it. Like any technique this will take practice first on a scrap model. :wave_1:

For that chipped effect I have 2 suggestions:

1- Spray a very thinned coat of your hull color (acrylics for this technique,as I rarely paint enamels) then almost immediately after spraying it on, take a strip of masking tape and blot the areas you want chipped. Random chips of paint will pull off and show the primer underneath.

2- Cut random chip shapes of masking tape, and place them in the areas of the model that you want the chipping. then spray your hull color, and when it is dry, remove your masking tape chips to show the primer underneath.

Both of these techniques are easy and easily painted over if you don't like the results. Both will give you the hard edges of the chips you are talking about vs. the rubbed out look you don't want.

Here are some Q's and A's and tips on "Hairspray Technique" used by armor modelers but adaptable to any kind of model. http://adserver.kitseller.net/index.php?section=click&action=102 :wave_1:

I need some weathering advice. I'm working on a ship (surprise!) that I want to display in a less than new condition.

Note the Laffey:

[img]http://navyphotos.togetherweserved.com/2199659.jpg[/img]

5-N had a tendency to wear down, dull out, and show primer pretty quickly. Based on colorized images, I'm 90% sure this is the primer showing through.

Now, I've brainstormed a few ways to do this and would appreciate any feedback:

1) Primer (Vallejo or 1200 Mr Surfacer. I also have a ModelMaster Lacquer that I did not realize I owned) Hit it with Future to seal in the primer, then paint. Once the paint cures, use differing shades of 5-N mixed with grey and/or white to dull with my airbrush. Particular attention will be paid to the waterline. Again, see the reference photo.

Now, here's where I deviate:

2a) Use a pencil eraser to wipe away the 5-N in spots where the forward wake would have chipped away the paint. My issue here is that the 5-N in the picture appears chipped off, not wiped.
2b) Use a cotton swab/Q-tip/etc with some Tamiya thinner (won't eat plastic) to do the same. Only issue here is damaging TOO Much of the paint and looking like I made a mistake with a clean up, not weathering.
2c) Scratch it off with a hobby knife in SMALL areas. This is time consuming, but handled with skill, would simulate the effects of wave action VERY well. I'm leery of cutting into paint.
2d) Utilize a wash and white paint. Old Fashioned and probably not as convincing.

Opinions? Ideas?