by BillThePill123 » Fri Jun 06, 2014 12:46 pm
The glue works fine; it's not old stock. It's funny you post this question - I haven't used the glue yet for rigging, but I did use it yesterday to glue a very problematic area, and the results were excellent.
The problem: while working on my Frank Knox, part of the deck pulled up from where it had been glued to some little crossbeams inside the hull, that apparently are there as gluing points. I needed to re-glue the deck, but there was only a very narrow gap between the deck and the top of the hull to give me access to where the glue had to be applied. I think there is a hypodermic needle-type glue applicator for such situations, but I don't have one. I knew that if I tried to daub glue inside there I ran the risk of accidentally getting styrene glue or CA on the outside of the hull or on the deck, ruining the model. The only other option was to pull up the whole deck, and risk ruining it that way, if any of the other glued points stuck too much.
I decided to test the mucilage. I was able to swab a large amount inside the gap, using a brush, and then simply use a brush and water to wash off the excess glue on the deck and hull. The mucilage takes a while to dry but the joint feels very solid now, and the excess mucilage washed off without leaving any residue at all, sparing the camouflage paint job that I just spent a week on.
I'm thinking of using mucilage again to glue other delicate plastic or PE parts, where excess glue can be a problem. The joints seem strong enough for modeling purposes, and the fact that the excess can be completely removed with water means this may be the easiest way I've found to make invisible glue joints.
The glue works fine; it's not old stock. It's funny you post this question - I haven't used the glue yet for rigging, but I did use it yesterday to glue a very problematic area, and the results were excellent.
The problem: while working on my Frank Knox, part of the deck pulled up from where it had been glued to some little crossbeams inside the hull, that apparently are there as gluing points. I needed to re-glue the deck, but there was only a very narrow gap between the deck and the top of the hull to give me access to where the glue had to be applied. I think there is a hypodermic needle-type glue applicator for such situations, but I don't have one. I knew that if I tried to daub glue inside there I ran the risk of accidentally getting styrene glue or CA on the outside of the hull or on the deck, ruining the model. The only other option was to pull up the whole deck, and risk ruining it that way, if any of the other glued points stuck too much.
I decided to test the mucilage. I was able to swab a large amount inside the gap, using a brush, and then simply use a brush and water to wash off the excess glue on the deck and hull. The mucilage takes a while to dry but the joint feels very solid now, and the excess mucilage washed off without leaving any residue at all, sparing the camouflage paint job that I just spent a week on.
I'm thinking of using mucilage again to glue other delicate plastic or PE parts, where excess glue can be a problem. The joints seem strong enough for modeling purposes, and the fact that the excess can be completely removed with water means this may be the easiest way I've found to make invisible glue joints.