The Ship Model Forum

Biggles2
Can you elaborate on the brand of scissors you have? How much did you pay for them? Are they considerably better than a sharp pair of high quality cuticle scissors?
C

I use a pair of these Castoviejo scissors. http://www.micromark.com/RS/SR/Product/84440_R.jpg The better quality ones are used in delicate surgery. But they still leave 1/2 - 1 mm of stub left. I also try pulling the end of the line and slicing with a very sharp razor, but 1/700 is usually too delicate for that kind of handling. More and more, I'm using stretched sprue, very fine, and measuring it so that it's only slightly longer than I need (just a mm or so, so that I have a bit of slack) and CA the end in place. Then using the burning incense trick as a heat source, shrink the stretched sprue just until it's taught. In retrospect, this has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with the original posting, and you can't tie stretched sprue! :big_grin:

I use very expensive, sharp embroidery scissors. It IS tough to make a super flush trim of the free ends. Pulling the thread taught and slicing with a sharp xacto blade might be better. In the context of the finished model, a couple of nearly invisible trim ends is no biggie.
I call them 'sutures' lol. I hate the look of ends sticking up on yardarm rigging!

Thanks Chris, I must try this as I already use caenis.
How do you get rid of the loose ends as I usually end up leaving an end sticking up even when I use small scissors.
George

I find that sometimes when you pull a length of Caenis over a sharp edge of PE, it will snap - which could be a good thing as it gives you a very flush cut, if you happen to want it there! :wave_1:

Again, awesome! Vote this should be stickied :cool_2:

Grab some ultra fine fishing line as well. It's a little thicker, but is clear. It's a lot stronger too. It's case by case. Like I said, the caenis breaks sometimes, so be prepared for it; but it's certainly strong enough for this application. It's best to bend the PE so that it naturally holds roughly where you want, then use the caenis to pull that last 1/16" flush.

Need Caenis now.... You're awesome dude :thumbs_up_1:

For this as well as all the other wonderful tips you've provided us, your place in heaven is assured...

for the round rail, I just tied it through the middle section...just bundling the two stanchions together.
Depending on the situation, the caenis can break as you are pulling the objects together. You might have to try a couple of times.

Sometimes, I'll pull the ends so the object closes, then tape one end to the table to free my other hand up to apply a tiny dot of CA to secure the first half of the knot. I can then complete the granny knot without the first tie slipping. LIke asking your friend to put their finger on a bow so you can tie it.
For certain applications, you could use ultra fine fishing line. Just make the knot on the inside of the object. This will give you the most permanent and toughest bond.
After figuring this out, I will never glue a crane again!

Caenis is finer than my hair! I can't even see it! :Mad_6: :big_grin:

I agree. Interesting tip. I'm going to have to give that a shot. Question. Where you tied the two rails together to form a circle, did you tie a lead to each end of the rail? Or did you secure it on one side and use that same piece to tie the other end of the rail? Did that make sense??? Thanks Chris! :thumbs_up_1:
Dave

Another brilliant tip! Thanks Chris!

never thought of doing that! Thanks man!

On my last couple of builds, I've been using Caenis fly-tying thread or ultra fine fishing line to tie my PE whenever possible instead of gluing.
I'm finding this to be very clean and neat in appearance with the added advantage of being able to flex and manipulate the parts once tied for perfect shape. You'll find that tying naturally pulls edges together in perfect mate and the objects often won't need to be filled. It's great for cranes and long box structures.
Often you'll only need a single knot to hold two sides of a crane or similar object together.

Another good example of where this is useful is a perfectly circular railing.
First shape it as usual. It doesn't have to be perfect.
[attachment=7]knots01.jpg[/attachment]
Tying the ends with caenis thread pulls them together. I usually use a surgeon's knot that has 3 or 4 turns for the first tie to help the initial overhand to bind to itself until I do the second overhand. You could touch this knot with a tiny amount of CA. The first half of the knot tends to want to slacken as you're doing the second. It's a small irritation that isn't impossible to deal with. Another possibility would be to tie the first half of the knot, secure one of the free ends to the table with tape, pulling the other end with your hand while the other hand secures it with a bit of CA.
[attachment=6]knots02.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=0]Surgeon's_knot_(tying).jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=5]knots03.jpg[/attachment]
It is now easy to shape the circle so that it is perfect by whatever means necessary.
[attachment=4]knots04.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=3]knots05.jpg[/attachment]

Objects like this crane can easily done with 3 or even 2 knots. I build even the most complex cranes of any type only with knots. It's a lot more fun and easy. After it is painted, it is easy to fill the crack (if there is one) with white glue or even more paint. The nature of tying naturally pulls the structure together flush and evenly. After the structure is tied, again, it is easy to flex and shape the thing without a glue joint snapping.
[attachment=2]KNOTS06.jpg[/attachment]
Certain mast structures like these drape-rigging pieces are easy to attach. They are flush across because they are tied. Gluing these are a pain and they never seem to sit flush...especially across a curved yardarm. Tying them naturally pulls them flush.
[attachment=1]KNOTS07.jpg[/attachment]
There are so many opportunities to tie instead of gluing. It won't work for all things, but when there's an opportunity, it can work really well.