The Ship Model Forum

Steve, I usually cut relatively short and easy to work with lengths of railing, then shape and dry fit as you suggest. Once I'm satisfied, I tack both ends to the ship with dots of CA glue. Once that has set up and sufficient to hold the railing in place, I, like you, take a clean brush and dip it in water, then in a small dot of wood glue, then using that finish gluing the railing to the ship. I then use small amounts of CA glue to glue the sections of railing together. I'm generally well satisfied with the results.
Thanks for your input.

Bob M.

I usually cut and bend a length of rail to shape and dry fit first, then attach one end using either CA or neat PVA small dots at various points along the length. Once the rail is in place and the glue has dried, I dip a very small brush in clean water and dip it in a small drop of PVA and run that along the bottom of the rail -don't use too big a brush or you will get PVA in the railings and all over the side of the ship.

cheers

Steve

Cost you about $1.49 for a small one. Try a craft shop or fabric shop: my hardware store carries it. Jim Baumann has a railing post on Tips and Tricks and he uses the Euro equivalent of Aleene's - again you can put a couple of small dabs of CA if you want it to hold solid quicker.
Eric

Eric, thanks for the tip. I've seen Aleene's but never tried it. Next time I'm where I can pick up a bottle I'll give it a try. My usual technique for PE railings is simply to cut the railings into manageable lengths and then apply some medium drying time CA glue to the bottom railing, put it in place and hold it until the glue sets. Works alright, but I'm always on the hunt for better ways to do things that my brother modelers like you may be discovered.

Thanks again,

Bob M.

White glue is terrific for railings and a lot of PE attaching - but you need to use the right kind. A reliable brand available everywhere is Aleene's tacky glue. (Get the smallest bottle - it wears out in about a year.) It comes in a zillion types - super tacky, clear tacky, quick dry tacky - try them out if you want. Regular Tacky in the brown bottle is fine. The key is tacky - if you've never used it, it's almost startling how quickly it grabs anything. What works pretty well with railings is to put a very small thin coat of Aleene's on the bottom of the rail and put a few little blobs on the hull - place them together and Aleene's grabs the rail like a magnet. Try to use as little as possible - doesn't take much. If you want you can put a couple of dabs of CA that dries fast. (Aleene's is usually set within an hour - and begins to set much sooner.) Less is more here. (I'm assuming you're using lengths of railing around 1")

The best CA applicator I know of is either a needle with the top of the "eye" snipped off - holds a small dab of CA and it's easy to apply. (Ram the sharp end into a thin piece of round wood about 6" long - I use medical Q-tips - which leave almost no cotton residue and have a ton of these neat sticks for stirring etc.) I have about 6 hobby knives and use slightly dull #11 blades on one to apply CA with. Works great. Any metal CA applicator will get covered with CA - keep a cigarette lighter handy and run the thing through the fire and the CA burns off.
Toothpicks work nicely for Tacky glue.

Eric

Cliffy, you are right, I did mean PVA glue. Sorry for the confusion.
So you just wet the brush and dip it in the white glue, is that correct? And as far as attaching small pieces of PE to the model, say like hatches? Still wet the brush first or just use the PVA glue "full strength", say applied with a small piece of wire as you would CA glue?

Thanks in advance.

Bob Melvin

Think you guys mean PVA not PVC unless you're talking about the can of cement with the brush in the cap for PVC piping.

I only ever wet the brush I was using to apply the PVA glue. It takes a long time to dry so you'll need to tack it in place with low tack tape or CA glue first.

DO NOT apply it in excess as after it dries you'll have to sand it and it flakes off in large chunks in my experience. Do all your clean up of it while its wet and you'll be fine. Use another brush or a q-tip to clean up excess.

Is PVC glue the same as "White Glue" or "School Glue"? Haven't had much luck with either.

I'm sure this question has been asked and answered before here at least once, but here goes. Till now I've been exclusively using CA to attach my PE, including railings. But, I've read about a lot of modelers here who's work I respect using PVC glue for this. I have two questions, first, in simply attaching small PE parts to the model do you dilute your PVC glue, or use it full strength? Second, I know that diluted PVC is used to secure PE railings, maybe after first tacking them down with CA at various points. What is the dilution ratio of water to PVC glue for diluting the PVC down for this? I'm going to be using Gorilla wood glue, which I understand has good holding properties and dries clear.
Thanks in advance for taking time to read this and any help you can provide.

Bob Melvin