The Ship Model Forum

by **Scale Shipyard / W.L.U.** » Mon Jul 13, 2009 1:55 am

Keep in mind that when you use the internal water ballast tanks, what ever crud is in the water your running in....it is coming home with you. It is far better to carry extra batteries and then large lead weights then have your model banished to the garage because your other half does not appreciate the gentle aroma of duck poop in the living room

by **ian sharpe** » Tue Jun 09, 2009 4:26 pm

hi i have been building this model on and off for a few years now
i have needed 26 kg of ballast, i have cast iron weights inside concrete shapes to sit in the various areas of the hull which are easilly removable for transport.
Ian

by **Dave Wooley** » Mon Feb 26, 2007 8:29 am

Irish Yamato wrote:Sealing off sections in the hull and allowing them to flood?

Its murderous to lift it empty in and out of the water as is..Its a thought...any pics of such a set up available?

=John John

Hi John The idea that's been adopted by a number of modellers is to construct internal tanks [ with baffles} using a pump which can be bought from "Motors Direct" and pump water in or out in just a few minutes. John Hollis used this sort of system for hid huge HMS Devastation. Then again you can free flood the tanks and use pumps to remove the water when finished. This way you are only lifting the hull not the ballast as well . Howie Baker constructed tanks for his 1:100 SMS Scharnhorst using this system .I'll dig out some pictures, I think ARH also has pictures of Paul Youds Gold Rover using flood tanks
Dave Wooley

by **marion** » Mon Feb 26, 2007 4:56 am

Have a look at lead flashing, as used in roofing.
It is available in various sized rolls from Builders Merchants, and some DIY shops.
This can simply be unrolled, and then folded into a 'brick', to suit the space you have available in the hull.
I have used this, it is effective, and simple to work with.

Peter

by **Greg W** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 5:40 pm

how about tire balance wieghts. many shops throw away the old ones when rebalancing tires.My dad would even melt them with a torch and allow the drops to go into a bucket of water to make small teardrop bb's of lead.

by **PetrOs** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 4:20 pm

Have you considered lead bars?
Picking the weights at a fishing shop, and melting them into form?
Alternatively, a usual brick?

by **Irish Yamato** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 3:47 pm

Sealing off sections in the hull and allowing them to flood?

Its murderous to lift it empty in and out of the water as is..Its a thought...any pics of such a set up available?

=John John

by **Dave Wooley** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 1:27 pm

Irish Yamato wrote:Hello gang Thanks for the kind words or encouagement.

I was very very happy with the results of her "Sea Trials" it went better than expected but I was very surprised that the ship sat so high in the water. Im looking into ballast but since anything that I would put in would have to come out for transport to and from the Pond Im kinda looking into some sort of sand bags, loosely packed they will be able to settle..

Anyone got an opinion

Thanks
John John

Hi John Have you given water ballast any more thoughts . Could be the answer?
Dave Wooley

by **Irish Yamato** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 12:19 pm

Hello gang Thanks for the kind words or encouagement.

I was very very happy with the results of her "Sea Trials" it went better than expected but I was very surprised that the ship sat so high in the water. Im looking into ballast but since anything that I would put in would have to come out for transport to and from the Pond Im kinda looking into some sort of sand bags, loosely packed they will be able to settle..

Anyone got an opinion

Thanks
John John

by **Dave Wooley** » Sun Feb 18, 2007 7:05 pm

Hi John Good to see you and the Yamato in fine form . I notice that the Swans are taking a real interest in your model. It seems to be a big problem around the ponds and lakes in our area. It's superb having a large model but there is always the thorny issue of ballast .
Dave Wooley

by **bismarck builder** » Sun Feb 18, 2007 5:19 pm

Hi John
first well done i am glad she worked well first time out
it is always good to get a ship wet
is it possible to have free flood chambers that way you wont need so much ballast and she wont weigh so much
where was everybody else your sailing alone fine weather sailers it was chilly
cheers
gary rowe

by **Irish Yamato** » Sun Feb 18, 2007 4:47 pm

Well I managed to paint most of the under hull with a primer and ran out of a 300ml can of the stuff before completing it...its got a lot of underside hull... but it went on clean and Im happy with it

Put it into the pond today too, worked very well, Tuned on the spot with port reversed and starboard ahead as well as opposite, and rudder performed surprisingly well when coasting with engines off.

But as maybe evidenced by the pics Im going to need a tremendous amount of ballast to get this down.

THese two signets seemed to be acting as escorts, the didnt strike it but Im not happy with that proximity..

The props were decently submerged but still kicked up a mess when at full power..

Piece by piece people...

by **Irish Yamato** » Sun Nov 26, 2006 8:43 am

Hello Gents

I am using a fair bit of wood inside the hull and to prevent further damage that an accidental sinking/water logging might cause what should I be using to seal the wood..like varnish or wood sealer?

Rgrds
John John

by **ARH** » Fri Nov 10, 2006 6:50 am

This is how I fit my shafts, the outer cassing is fitted in to the hull and fibra glassed in place, the shaft is then lubed and slid in place, the nuts are wound in place at either end, I get them as hand tight as possible so the shaft does not move, then I put on the prop a fraction short of the nut, then I back off the nut from the shaft, locking it on to the prop, this gives you some clearance for the shaft to move.
Now we come to the coupling, turn the nut so again it locks the shaft, put on the coupling, again bring it just short of the nut, back off the nut from the shaftand tighten it onto the coupling, the shaft should now turn and you have your coupling and your prop on very tight, I hope you can under stand all that . ARH

by **Irish Yamato** » Fri Nov 10, 2006 3:52 am

Yeah thats how they look,I just didnt think it wa sa good idea to glue the parts together as I am sure that I will be removing theshafts to lube up the shaft tube...

Thanks again gents

John John

by **ARH** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 7:07 pm

Hi, Have a look at page 71 on my IRON DUKE build , do your couplings fit like mine.

by **Dave Wooley** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 6:54 pm

Hi John Same thing , try loc-tight to the nut on the coupling. That should do the trick.
Dave Wooley

by **Irish Yamato** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 3:06 pm

Thanks for getting back to me

I may have not said it correctly. THe nuts are staying very very attached to the shaft but the nut & shaft is pulling out of the red plastic coupling that is attached to the motor shaft ...

John John

by **Dave Wooley** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 11:58 am

Hi John nice to see you back on the board. Regarding your problem with the shafts suggest you try loc-tight on each of the nuts but remember this liquid really bonds the nut to the shaft . As for the motors and the RX. What type of ESC are you using, is it a B.E.C. unit?. You could try suppressors on the motor terminal this usually helps. Suppressor kits are available from model suppliers such as Westbourne Model Centre http://www.westbourne-model.co.uk Other than that keep the RX and aerial as far away from the motors as possible. Try these remedial options but should the problem continue it could be related to the speed controller.
Dave Wooley

by **Irish Yamato** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 6:25 am

Hello Gents

Im back and I have more questions, I have been taking a class in AutoCAD so my progress with YAmato has been dissapointing

I had the hull in the water last weekend and was pleased that it functioned well, other than a few hiccups (I will need a lot...I mean a lot of ballast to get her down to the waterline, in her current condition she wasnt even an inch in the water) Im thrilled.

1st up was the prop couplings. The shaft and locking nuts keep pulling themselves off the motor coupling when I reverse the motors, how can I stop this happening?

Also, I am using two VIPER Speed Controllers and 2 12v 12 Amp batteries. once everything but the reciever batteries are connected and turned on the ship is alive capable of recieving and acting on instructions from the radio. THe power from the motor batts seems to be feeding back to the reciever..whats going on and is it a problem I need to fix?

Thanks again
John John

The Ship Model Forum

Fleetscale Yamato

Post a reply

Expand view Topic review: Fleetscale Yamato

Re: Fleetscale Yamato

Re: Fleetscale Yamato

Fleetscale Yamato

Sea Trials

Wood sealer???