The Ship Model Forum

Another method:

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=154098

Here's a variation on Dave's technique that takes less time, but is not a snap. (I do agree you could use washes on top of a buff base, especially in 700.) Give the deck a coat of Buff - Tamiya would work for the base, but for the other shades you want Vallejo Model Colors - Iraqi Sand, a yellow brown and something else. (Other true water acrylics like LifeColor or Golden Fluids would work great too: Tamiya does not hand brush well.) I take a razor plade and stick it between the planking grooves. Use it to help paint a thin line of non-base color: vary lengths maybe 1/4" to 3/4". Don't worry about over paint: I don't see that it needs to be precise. By the time you're done you'll end up with 30% buff, and 20% of surface for each of three other colors randomly dispersed. If you're going to wash the panel lines, hand brush Pledge or use something to give you a very glossy coat. If you want some of the wash to blend into the deck color, use something satin - airbrushed pledge would be close. If you think it worthwhile, you could put on a filter - a heavily thinned oil, a Vallejo acrylic wash or Iwata Com.Art if you've ever used them - you'd want a satin finish for that. Then give a very light dusting with buff. You could skip washes entirely and use a pencil to darken panel lines. Check out the final product from a few feet away - something that looks a little odd 3" off might look great when the eye blends it.

Eric

Before any assembly I paint the deck (whether it's wood or metal). Pre-shade with dark gray around barbettes, smaller gun positions, and where structures will go. For wood I use Tamiya buff, or wood deck tan (whichever I have on hand) and lighten it with matte white. Thin it well so you can use low pressure and get in real close and gently feather in to the pre-shading. If neccessary, mask off larger steel deck areas - smaller molded-on detail such as hatches, scuttles, ammo lockers, etc. I hand paint later. Seal acrylics with Future. In between these steps you can paint the hull. I then use a black, or dark brown, oil wash to run into the plank grooves, and outline the raised bits. Before completely dry, brush off excess oil paint, leaving it in crevises and corners. I also use various colored pencils (brown, tans, etc) to lightly color random individual planks. Then a white colored pencil to outline planks (if you want to be anal ) as well as for highlighting details. Glue the deck into the hull and you will have a nice sharp line between them. Spray with the dull coat of your choice to protect it and...voila! Painting steps and masking will vary slightly with resin kits from plastic kits, as the resin ones usually have a lot more detail and structures molded on.

The deck is the first step in painting a 1/700 model. The first step is to lay down a good primer. Next I paint the deck with Tamiya XF-78. This is a good base color for your deck. Generally manufacturers will add raised panel lines on their wood decks. These serve as guides for the next step which is to use color pencils. I use some colors that are slightly lighter and darker than the base coat. What you will do is sharpen them and draw random lines into the deck representing shades in planks. Finally I spray a VERY thin coat of the base color over the deck to blend the colors. You want this to be very subtle.

From there you'll mask the deck. I use lots of micro tapes to get around curves and deck fixtures. Then you can paint the rest of the model as required. This will leave you with nice sharp lines around fixtures, structure, etc. Save your tiny bits like railing for last. You can always go back and touch up as necessary.

I learned this technique from my friend Victor in our model ship club. Here's an example of a 1/700 Minesweeper I recently finished (more formal post to come) that shows how it looks finished using this technique. You don't want those individual planks screaming at you.

Hope this helps.
Dave

Anything that is cast on I either mask or just go ahead and paint the deck color and touch up later with the appropriate color.

It seems Bob has already given the answer. I do it in the same way like him.

Mike, I build in 1/350, but I think the principles still apply. I try to paint the decks early on in the build process, while they are still bare as possible and minimum masking, if any, is required. Anything that is cast on I either mask or just go ahead and paint the deck color and touch up later with the appropriate color. I've frankly never been able to get the hang of building, then painting. Too much masking, especially if delicate PE is involved.

Bob Melvin

Thanks Gabor.

What about the tiny, numerous dexk fittings, hatches ect. ?

Thanks

Welcome aboard again

The simpliest method is that if you paint the deck with a sand, teak etc. color. After drying wash it with a well thinned black color.
The next chance is similar to the first one. Use a dark basic color, then a lighter tone which does not have to cover the basic color totally. Finally wash it with black. You can also try raw umber oil paint instead of black for washing.

Just getting back into ship modelling after many years.

What are some of the techniques for recreating realistic wooden decks? It seems that masking would be a really tough proposition.

Thanks all