gott_cha wrote:You know Matthew you can also soak them in acetone (nail polish remover) in a small container...rinse with vinegar and repaint/reapply
I have been able to do that with some of them, and it did work pretty well.
The real trick has been a few parts that got CA in detailing after the part had been applied to the model (and it is a part that cannot be removed without destroying it and the part to which it is attached).
I have been using these dental tools that are like teenie-tiny Q-tips to slowly dab acetone into the areas where the CA has filled the detail.
And then I will take a dental pick to scrape at the softened CA, to lift it out of the detailing.
It is taking a long while, but it has been an invaluable lesson in what to do, and what not to do in attaching PE parts (never put tape over details you don't want obscured - the tape will allow the capillary action of the CA to fill in the details underneath the tape).
And, it has helped in learning what kind of glue (CA: Thin, Medium, Thick; PVA/White Glue; Contact cement; Soldering) to use for which parts.
And it has been very valuable for learning how to make precision applicators for CA and PVA glues.
The biggest problem with CA is simply getting the right amount to the right place.
With the thin and medium consistency CA, if you get just the right amount, capillary action will pull the glue right to where you need it, and provide a very strong bond.
But.... Too much and the glue gets everywhere, and the bond is weaker.
And... PVA/White Glue.... It tends to only work well where a large surface area is in contact.
Oddly, this can mean some railings work well with PVA, if the railing is long enough.
I am going to have to look into "Gator Grip" white glue....
PE is such a double-edged sword.
It looks really great when done well.
But it slows down a build by days to weeks.
MB
[quote="gott_cha"]You know Matthew you can also soak them in acetone (nail polish remover) in a small container...rinse with vinegar and repaint/reapply[/quote]
I have been able to do that with some of them, and it did work pretty well.
The real trick has been a few parts that got CA in detailing after the part had been applied to the model (and it is a part that cannot be removed without destroying it and the part to which it is attached).
I have been using these dental tools that are like teenie-tiny Q-tips to slowly dab acetone into the areas where the CA has filled the detail.
And then I will take a dental pick to scrape at the softened CA, to lift it out of the detailing.
It is taking a long while, but it has been an invaluable lesson in what to do, and what not to do in attaching PE parts (never put tape over details you don't want obscured - the tape will allow the capillary action of the CA to fill in the details underneath the tape).
And, it has helped in learning what kind of glue (CA: Thin, Medium, Thick; PVA/White Glue; Contact cement; Soldering) to use for which parts.
And it has been very valuable for learning how to make precision applicators for CA and PVA glues.
The biggest problem with CA is simply getting the right amount to the right place.
With the thin and medium consistency CA, if you get just the right amount, capillary action will pull the glue right to where you need it, and provide a very strong bond.
But.... Too much and the glue gets everywhere, and the bond is weaker.
And... PVA/White Glue.... It tends to only work well where a large surface area is in contact.
Oddly, this can mean some railings work well with PVA, if the railing is long enough.
I am going to have to look into "Gator Grip" white glue....
PE is such a double-edged sword.
It looks really great when done well.
But it slows down a build by days to weeks.
MB