We are pleased to announce that the designs for two SCB-27 modernized Korean War-era Essex class islands is complete. They are intended for
straight-deck Essex class models. They are available in several popular scales. Other scales are possible.
Link:
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/Model_Monkey
These first two designs represent the islands of
USS Ticonderoga CV-14 and USS Oriskany CV-34 as they appeared circa 1953-1954.
Accurate and highly detailed, these SCB-27 islands offer the modeler an attractive alternative to scratch-building or altering the plastic kit's island parts in order to build a Korean War-era, straight-deck ship.
With minor modifications, it can be adapted to represent other Korean War-era straight-deck Essex class carriers.
For 1/350, scale, these islands are recommended for:
- Trumpeter 1/350 USS
Ticonderoga CV-14 (# 05609)
- Trumpeter 1/350 USS
Hancock CV-19 (# 05610)
- Trumpeter 1/350 USS
Essex CV-9 (# 05602)
- Trumpeter 1/350 USS
Yorktown CV-10 (# 05603)
- Trumpeter 1/350 USS
Franklin CV-13 (# 05604)
Note: when the Essex class islands were modernized, they were made shorter at the aft end. These islands, true to the originals, are accurately shorter than the World War Two-era kit's parts. Some adjustment of the plastic kit's flight deck parts may be needed for best fit. Because of the bow and flight deck length, Trumpeter's long-hull Essex class kits, USS
Ticonderoga and USS
Hancock may be better starting points than the short-hull USS
Essex, USS
Yorktown, and USS
Franklin kits for your conversion.
Features:
- fully assembled
- open bridge and PriFly windows with delicate framing
- details consistent with photos of the actual ship
- decks properly offset to port, they should NOT be centered on the island
- properly shaped decks and deck features
- accurately shaped SPN-8 radar platform and dome aft of the island
- battle lookout details
- flag lockers and splinter shielding shape specific to Ticonderoga
- deck supporting structure details accurately positioned as confirmed by photos of the real ship
- delicate exterior piping detail and routing specific for Ticonderoga
- porthole rigols ("eyebrows")
- carefully researched and accurately placed bridge "soft-top" framing
- door overhead chevron-shaped rain deflectors
- open funnel cap (grille not included), ready for your favorite photoetch set
Some part cleanup will be necessary. The 3D printing process uses a waxy substance to support certain part features. Although the parts are cleaned by Shapeways, some waxy residue may remain. It can be safely removed with water and a mild aqueous detergent like "Simple Green" using an old, soft toothbrush, Q-tips or pipe cleaners. Customers report that "Bestine" and "Goo Gone" also work well.
During the printing process, liquid resin is cured by ultraviolet light. Microscopic bits of resin may remain uncured. Let your parts sit in direct sunlight for a few hours to fully cure the resin.
Water-based acrylic paints meant for plastics is strongly recommended. Other paints, especially enamels, may not cure on Frosted Detail 3D-printed plastics.
� Model Monkey Book and Hobby. This 3D-printed item may not be copied or recast.
Here is USS Ticonderoga CV-14:
And here is USS Oriskany CV-34:
- Model Monkey 1-350 USS Oriskany island 1954.e.png (195.65 KiB) Viewed 2715 times
[b]We are pleased to announce that the designs for two SCB-27 modernized Korean War-era Essex class islands is complete.[/b] They are intended for [b]straight-deck Essex class models[/b]. They are available in several popular scales. Other scales are possible.
Link: http://www.shapeways.com/shops/Model_Monkey
These first two designs represent the islands of [b][color=#0000FF]USS [i]Ticonderoga[/i] CV-14[/color] and [color=#0000FF]USS [i]Oriskany[/i] CV-34[/color][/b] as they appeared circa 1953-1954.
Accurate and highly detailed, these SCB-27 islands offer the modeler an attractive alternative to scratch-building or altering the plastic kit's island parts in order to build a Korean War-era, straight-deck ship.
With minor modifications, it can be adapted to represent other Korean War-era straight-deck Essex class carriers.
For 1/350, scale, these islands are recommended for:
- Trumpeter 1/350 USS [i]Ticonderoga[/i] CV-14 (# 05609)
- Trumpeter 1/350 USS [i]Hancock[/i] CV-19 (# 05610)
- Trumpeter 1/350 USS [i]Essex[/i] CV-9 (# 05602)
- Trumpeter 1/350 USS [i]Yorktown[/i] CV-10 (# 05603)
- Trumpeter 1/350 USS [i]Franklin[/i] CV-13 (# 05604)
Note: when the Essex class islands were modernized, they were made shorter at the aft end. These islands, true to the originals, are accurately shorter than the World War Two-era kit's parts. Some adjustment of the plastic kit's flight deck parts may be needed for best fit. Because of the bow and flight deck length, Trumpeter's long-hull Essex class kits, USS [i]Ticonderoga[/i] and USS [i]Hancock[/i] may be better starting points than the short-hull USS [i]Essex[/i], USS [i]Yorktown[/i], and USS [i]Franklin[/i] kits for your conversion.
Features:
- fully assembled
- open bridge and PriFly windows with delicate framing
- details consistent with photos of the actual ship
- decks properly offset to port, they should NOT be centered on the island
- properly shaped decks and deck features
- accurately shaped SPN-8 radar platform and dome aft of the island
- battle lookout details
- flag lockers and splinter shielding shape specific to Ticonderoga
- deck supporting structure details accurately positioned as confirmed by photos of the real ship
- delicate exterior piping detail and routing specific for Ticonderoga
- porthole rigols ("eyebrows")
- carefully researched and accurately placed bridge "soft-top" framing
- door overhead chevron-shaped rain deflectors
- open funnel cap (grille not included), ready for your favorite photoetch set
Some part cleanup will be necessary. The 3D printing process uses a waxy substance to support certain part features. Although the parts are cleaned by Shapeways, some waxy residue may remain. It can be safely removed with water and a mild aqueous detergent like "Simple Green" using an old, soft toothbrush, Q-tips or pipe cleaners. Customers report that "Bestine" and "Goo Gone" also work well.
During the printing process, liquid resin is cured by ultraviolet light. Microscopic bits of resin may remain uncured. Let your parts sit in direct sunlight for a few hours to fully cure the resin.
Water-based acrylic paints meant for plastics is strongly recommended. Other paints, especially enamels, may not cure on Frosted Detail 3D-printed plastics.
� Model Monkey Book and Hobby. This 3D-printed item may not be copied or recast.
[b]Here is [color=#0000FF]USS [i]Ticonderoga[/i] CV-14:[/color][/b]
[attachment=6]Model Monkey 1-350 USS Ticonderoga island 1954.a.png[/attachment]
[attachment=5]Model Monkey 1-350 USS Ticonderoga island 1954.b.png[/attachment]
[b]And here is [color=#0000FF]USS [i]Oriskany[/i] CV-34:[/color][/b]
[attachment=2]Model Monkey 1-350 USS Oriskany island 1954.g.png[/attachment]
[attachment=3]Model Monkey 1-350 USS Oriskany island 1954.f.png[/attachment]
[attachment=4]Model Monkey 1-350 USS Oriskany island 1954.e.png[/attachment]