by dhenning » Sat Aug 18, 2018 11:02 pm
I've used different products on my builds. On my 1/125 USS Pirate from the Lindberg minesweeper kit, I used 3/8" photo etch stanchions from Bluejacket Shipcrafters and flyfishing tippett line. The stanchions are flat, so it is a trade off.
On my 1/160 LCI(G)-449 (also from the old Lindberg LCI kit), I used photoetch stanchions from Saemann in Germany (purchased through Ralf from NNT -I think) a vendor on our forums. I used fine brass wire for the rails (don't recall the diameter). I liked how these turned out since the stanchions are flat, but vary narrow and look more like posts and rails.
On my current project, a 1/125 LCT Mk 6 (converted from the Lindberg-LCU/LCT kit), i used 0.015" brass wire for the posts and 0.010" brass wire for the rails. Drill your holes for the posts, insert a length of wire longer than the finish height, and make a jig to cut the posts off at the right height above the deck with a flush cutter. I used a 1/8" square piece of plastic rod cut to the right height and attached another piece of styrene rod for a handle to hold it down against the deck while I clip the top of the post off. I then mount the top rail using super glue and accelerator. I made a spacing gauge from strip stock the right width for the gap between the deck and the middle rail of the railing (my build only has two rails) and mark the location on the posts with a ultrafine tip Sharpie. Then glue another horizontal rail in place with the brass wire. Finally, I trim the ends of the railings off with the outside posts or openings with the flush cutters again.
Method 1: Cons-stanchions are wider than a normal posts. Posts can bend when tensioning the line, so make sure that you add some angled braces before running the line. Pros-fastest method. Easy to run the lines and trim them and consistent spacing between horizontal runs of rails.
Method 2: Cons-had to search all over to find the stanchions and sizes available could be a little undersized for your scale. Pros-stanchions looked much closer to scale. Wire runs for the horizontals ensure good straight runs.
Method 3: Cons - railings mount on front of posts, so it doesn't look just like the prototype installations and have to be mindful of not leaving gaps between the rails and posts. Making sure all of the posts are even and the same height is a challenge as well. Watch out for accumulating too much glue at joints (particularly the ones that are frustrating you). Just when you get one in place and move to the next, one of the earlier ones might pop off on you. Also, make sure that you have a good sharp set of flush cutters. I use two-one for rough cutting wire to length and topping the posts, another one for trimming up the railing runs. Pros-cheaper material wise.
If you search the completed builds forum, I have some photos of my YMS minesweeper that used method 1. I just posted posted photos of my LCI(G)-449 on the Picture Post section of the forum that used Method 2 with the Saemann posts.
Good luck with your build!
David
I've used different products on my builds. On my 1/125 USS Pirate from the Lindberg minesweeper kit, I used 3/8" photo etch stanchions from Bluejacket Shipcrafters and flyfishing tippett line. The stanchions are flat, so it is a trade off.
On my 1/160 LCI(G)-449 (also from the old Lindberg LCI kit), I used photoetch stanchions from Saemann in Germany (purchased through Ralf from NNT -I think) a vendor on our forums. I used fine brass wire for the rails (don't recall the diameter). I liked how these turned out since the stanchions are flat, but vary narrow and look more like posts and rails.
On my current project, a 1/125 LCT Mk 6 (converted from the Lindberg-LCU/LCT kit), i used 0.015" brass wire for the posts and 0.010" brass wire for the rails. Drill your holes for the posts, insert a length of wire longer than the finish height, and make a jig to cut the posts off at the right height above the deck with a flush cutter. I used a 1/8" square piece of plastic rod cut to the right height and attached another piece of styrene rod for a handle to hold it down against the deck while I clip the top of the post off. I then mount the top rail using super glue and accelerator. I made a spacing gauge from strip stock the right width for the gap between the deck and the middle rail of the railing (my build only has two rails) and mark the location on the posts with a ultrafine tip Sharpie. Then glue another horizontal rail in place with the brass wire. Finally, I trim the ends of the railings off with the outside posts or openings with the flush cutters again.
Method 1: Cons-stanchions are wider than a normal posts. Posts can bend when tensioning the line, so make sure that you add some angled braces before running the line. Pros-fastest method. Easy to run the lines and trim them and consistent spacing between horizontal runs of rails.
Method 2: Cons-had to search all over to find the stanchions and sizes available could be a little undersized for your scale. Pros-stanchions looked much closer to scale. Wire runs for the horizontals ensure good straight runs.
Method 3: Cons - railings mount on front of posts, so it doesn't look just like the prototype installations and have to be mindful of not leaving gaps between the rails and posts. Making sure all of the posts are even and the same height is a challenge as well. Watch out for accumulating too much glue at joints (particularly the ones that are frustrating you). Just when you get one in place and move to the next, one of the earlier ones might pop off on you. Also, make sure that you have a good sharp set of flush cutters. I use two-one for rough cutting wire to length and topping the posts, another one for trimming up the railing runs. Pros-cheaper material wise.
If you search the completed builds forum, I have some photos of my YMS minesweeper that used method 1. I just posted posted photos of my LCI(G)-449 on the Picture Post section of the forum that used Method 2 with the Saemann posts.
Good luck with your build!
David