The Ship Model Forum

Dear Colleagues,
Many thanks for your kind replies and useful advice! Sincerely - Alex

After messing up the resin window frames of the bridge on this 1/700 JAG Forrest Sherman kit, while trying to clean up the flashing, I used the PE windows from GMM's 1/700 Modern USN/JMSDF PE set.

Don't tell anybody, Shhhhh! , but the number of windows in each panel are incorrect. The windows in the PE set weren't the right width to make three windows on the p&s sides and six windows on the front of the bridge. There is one extra window on each panel, here.

[img]http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii194/carlomaha/Model%20-%20USS%20Forrest%20Sherman%20DD-931/P10308342.jpg[/img]

This is a 1/700 Sumner with a Gearing bridge assembly from Skywave, USS Harry E. Hubbard in the early 1960's. To make the covered bridge from the open bridge of the kit, I "think" I used 1/350 vertical ladder pieces. Its been a while since I made this one. I left the windows open.

[img]http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii194/carlomaha/Model%20-%20USS%20Harry%20E%20Hubbard%20DD-748/P1010353.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii194/carlomaha/Model%20-%20USS%20Harry%20E%20Hubbard%20DD-748/P10104512.jpg[/img]

Joe World PhotoEtch has exactly what you're looking for:

[img]http://www.joe-world.jp/products/jpe28g.jpg[/img]

http://74.125.93.104/translate_c?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.joe-world.jp/products/jpe28g.html&prev=/search%3Fq%3Djpe28g%26hl%3Den%26rls%3DGGLR,GGLR:2006-07,GGLR:en&usg=ALkJrhjTWKTOO5TmYlnqgu9A4qq_6FOlkQ

http://74.125.93.104/translate_c?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.joe-world.jp/products/jpe29g.html&prev=/search%3Fq%3Djpe28g%26hl%3Den%26rls%3DGGLR,GGLR:2006-07,GGLR:en&usg=ALkJrhjviSvejB3oB-8USKMGgFonYa1PVA

http://74.125.93.104/translate_c?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.joe-world.jp/products/jpe27g.html&prev=/search%3Fq%3Djpe28g%26hl%3Den%26rls%3DGGLR,GGLR:2006-07,GGLR:en&usg=ALkJrhgteGSrXKraOfmlaILhiJ6qOwIhFw

Tough to get in the US but you can order them from Japan from Rainbow 10: http://www.rainbowten.co.jp/english/

Looks like right now they have set 29 in stock (click on "Today's Stock List"):
Listed as: 7690876900029,JOE WORLD,1600YEN,JPE29G 1/700 PRECISE FENESTRATION FRAMES VER.C

I bought three different sets from them last month, so a restock may not be far off. There really isn't a lot of difference between the three.

Hope this helps
--Scott

Please, can somebody advice about some 1:700 PE kit that would "resolve this problem" for the bridge windows on the "pagoda" masts of Japanese battleships?
Does any such special kit exist on the market - or to use ladders is the only reasonable option (if to stay with PE technology) ? ...

[quote="Bill Clarke"]What is the best way to model the bridge (or any) windows ? especially on the kits here it is depicted in those awful paper stickers.
Is it a matter of cutting out the shape and form fitting vertical brass ladders to shape ?

Thanks. :smallsmile:[/quote]

Bill, I have found the best way to go is indeed to replace the offending part. Make your own bridge out of plasticard, lay ladder stock round it, add the interior detail, fit the roog, paint the new part then glaze the windows white white glue.

Cheers,

Rob

Based on one attempt on a smooth gray-painted bridge front, this worked for me:

1. Design the window pattern in MS-PowerPoint graphics shapes under drawing tools. Or in MS-anything. Magnify the display scale to 400% while you are working on it.
2. Print the pattern on a standard photo-quality ink-jet printer.
3. Place a strip of 3M Scotch tape (green plaid) over the printed pattern.
Take a second strip of this same type of tape, fold one corner underneath so that you can pry off thes strip later, and place if over the first.
4. Reprint the pattern on the same sheet of paper, so that the pattern now is printed on the tape. Let the ink dry. Then cut out the pattern and apply it to your model.

It appears similar to a manufactured decal, and is better than I produced by a home decal kit. The unprinted tape has a flat finish and blends with the model surface.

Since the materials cost nothing and the time consumed is very short, it's easy to experiment.

some specific PE sets have specific window frames, i know the GMM USN set has them for the Iowa class. otherwise ladder works fine. 1:350 ladder mind you, and some adaptations may be required. you can leave the space behind empty or open, or if its just for adding relief then use a black permanent marker on the inside where the "glass" would be. happy modelling

What is the best way to model the bridge (or any) windows ? especially on the kits here it is depicted in those awful paper stickers.
Is it a matter of cutting out the shape and form fitting vertical brass ladders to shape ?

Thanks. :smallsmile: