The Ship Model Forum

walthers has over 900 display cases for trains and the likes, here is one example for G scale, they are 6" wide/9" high on oak and can be had in dozens of lengths...It looks small but that train is huge. A 24" case would look natural for a bb...

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/248-2436

Just do an advanced search for display cases in G scale they have about 15 sizes in three different wood colors. The ho/o cases can fit many smaller 700/500th kits and they have HUNDREDS of them. A 24" wood G-scale one is about 120 bucks. In G alone they have 6w/9l in 14/20/24/28/30/32/36/46/and even 60"! It would be cheap to do a longer case and put three or more destroyers in one case on a shelf or mantle..I plan on doing that with a sprucan/burke/ticon all in one box down the breakfast bar. :big_grin: If you use brass doorknobs you can probably tack glue them to the case with a little rtv or double sided foam tape and remove/replace them at will, so a 'better' model can take its place later and the holes don't need to match. in the base. Something like an Iowa wwII/modern then/now two ship display would be cool. I'm really thinking about a 46" case and I can just rotate the models in there as they get better.

I have never called walthers to see if they have G scale grooves in the wood though. I probably wouldn't care either way.

They make train cases in the much larger o and g scales(an LGB train car is much bigger in width and height then a 1/350 BB). I think they are 6" wide by 9" high up to 4' or even longer-A LGB modern loco can be well over 24" long.

Thanks a lot for the link Martin! This will surely cover my 1/700 builds. I'll have to find an alternative for my 1/350 and 1/400 models. Luckily I don't have any models in these scales started yet and with a newborn baby I don't plan on starting any of them soon :big_grin:

The CIC would have my hide if I started one anyway so better play-it-safe :thumbs_up_1:

Cheers

[quote="Sylvain Auger"]Well, things are not looking too bright right now with my display cases!!!! I just checked my supplier's website and they moved from Montreal to........ MARYLAND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :mad_1:

I won't be able to have my cases custom made by them anymore. Their prices were terrific and it was a 45 minute drive from my place.

I'll have to think of something else to protect my models. I can't buy cases custom made in the US because of the shipping costs and currency rate.

Talk about a cold shower this morning :lol_3:

Just venting out some frustration here![/quote]

Check with [url=http://www.micromark.com]Micro Mark[/url] - they make oak bases with acrylic covers. Click on "Organizers and Display Cases", then on "Display Cases". The HO bases will hold even the largest 1/700 battleship comfortable - you just have to order the length you want.

[img]http://www.micromark.com/prodimgs/81423.jpg[/img]

Well, things are not looking too bright right now with my display cases!!!! I just checked my supplier's website and they moved from Montreal to........ MARYLAND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :mad_1:

I won't be able to have my cases custom made by them anymore. Their prices were terrific and it was a 45 minute drive from my place.

I'll have to think of something else to protect my models. I can't buy cases custom made in the US because of the shipping costs and currency rate.

Talk about a cold shower this morning :lol_3:

Just venting out some frustration here!

Thanks for the answers guys!! As usual you've been very helpful :thumbs_up_1:

I'll try and buy some epoxy glue for this project since drilling the barbettes is out of the question. The turrets are already attached!! :lol_3:

Jim: Do you think Maple wood will warp in time. I have absolutely no experience with wood. I buy my cases from Hobby World of Montreal so I don't really have any control about the type of wood.

Cheers!!! :wave_1:

hahah Sylvain...!!

I am so sorry that the photo of HMS Furious with a cracked stern scared you off... heheh!

Actually... an alternative method is to drill holes thru the barbettes and then screw the ship to its base prior to mounting the turrets. But the above suggestions whilst bnot giving a mechanical fix are obviously working well also!

as a matter of fact... my current project--a 1/350 ww1 destroyer in a boisterous sea is fixed to its waves of autobody filer by glue action also!

The most important thing is to ensure the timber chosen for the base will not warp--avoid waterbased sea materials--the water can cause the wood to twist--and your ship with it!!

Good luck

JIM B

I use the acrylic gel I use for water to mount ships to the base. I spead a thin coating on the bottom of the model and mount. So far, I've had no issues with the kits lifting off the base.

If you go to the [url=http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/users/martin-quinn/mq-index.html]gallery page[/url] for me, the [i]Musashi [/i]and neverbuilt [i]Saratoga[/i] are both attached to their bases in this manner.

I use a super glue that is a thick gel. I buy it at Lowe's Home Centers. Several drops about 1"-2" apart seem to do the job. The wood base is finished with stain and poly. I usually paint a base coat of the water color, then add the ship, then add the matt medium, more water color, then gloss medium.

I would try some combinations with a less expensive model first and then when satisfied, glue dow that Alaska.

Epoxy resin, even 5 minute, is incredibly strong. You probably would not be able to ever remove it without shreading one of the two surfaces. You can add a little talcum powder or micro beads to thicken the mixture so it doesn't soak in to the wood, and gives it a little 'substinance' to account for any imperfections/uneveness. A couple dime size dallops of epoxy is easilly more then enough to hold a model forever. I would probably do a spot of glue every 2" though to make sure the bond is consistant. If you have any intention of ever removing it(it would still take a lot of work to do so), you can use clear silicone adhesive caulk, again a little would be plenty. With the adhesive caulk, it allows a little flex for expansion as well. If you get epoxy, use the two bottle 5 minute from a hobby store and not the crappy giant syringe type ones from home centers. In 6 minutes that thing will never move again :big_grin:

Hello everyone,

I was wondering if a type of epoxy glue would be able to fix a resin hull to a wooden base. I'm planning on mounting my 1/700 Alaska but I don't want to use screws to do the job. I saw pictures of one of Jim Bauman's ship with the bow broken off and that image stayed in my mind in a very negative way :big_grin: I don't have the talent or patience to repair that kind of damage so I'm looking for an "easy" way out.

As anyone tried epoxy to glue resin and wood together? Is it solid and durable?

Thanks :wave_1: