The Ship Model Forum

Looking at the Snowman's effects, the hull of the ship ends up looking like a piece of graph paper!

Found one:

Snowman's 1/700 "USN Paint Template for Hull Detail (A)": https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10670799

One of the Japanese or Chinese photo-etch manufacturers makes 1/700 and 1/350 scale photoetch friskets for airbrushing oil canning effects on ship hulls. I just looked online for a link but regretfully could not find any. I assume, however, that standard fine PE mesh would work just as well.

HTH

Mike E.

I favor the technique of using masking tape to lay out the plating's fore / aft strakes, then use Duplicolor High Build Filler Primer. This stuff, available at auto parts stores, puts down a thick but smooth coat that sets up quickly (with the help of a hair dryer). It may take two coats from the rattlecan, but if you sand it gently with very very fine sandpaper, you get a plate strake the thickness of the masking tape - about .005 to .008 thick. It looks convincing for alternately overlapping plates as shown in the model picture.

One personal peave I have is when the strakes are laid out all parallel to each other like a layer cake. Bad dog. Two recent kits (not the only ones I'm sure) that illustrate this are the Merit YORKTOWN and Very Fire MISSOURI. The CAD guys that cut the molds apparently have never looked at a real ship for the plating. These are both really good and accurate models except for this visible plating inaccuracy. The point is: the ship is wider at midships than at either the bow or stern. There are more plates / strakes at midships than at the bow or stern. Depending upon how "fat" the ship is in the middle, there can be almost twice the number of strakes there as at either end. So the strakes narrow and blend together as you move forward or aft from midships. Importantly, just like wooden hulled sailing ships, the strakes never end in a point - it is always a blunt end. Paul Budzik from time to time posts a picture of the YORKTOWN class hull plating diagram that shows the overall effect well. You can find Paul's plating picture and a discussion of the paint-on strakes method in both the CASF ENTERPRISE CV-6 and HORNET CV-8 (edit: CV-8 thread p. 35) threads as well as some pictures of my HORNET under construction using the method.

You can also look into the topics from Koppalakki, he explained it here.

Interesting. I've been doing a lot of research into how to create hull effects. I've decided to create my horizontal lines with this technique https://youtu.be/xXbmPilmBWA?t=130 then use the oil canning shade effect for my vertical lines.

It's called "oil canning"

K does a great job illustrating how to do it here: viewtopic.php?f=59&t=163630&hilit=Roma

I've used similar technique on WW1 aircraft to simulate the fabric "sag" between ribs. It's tedious, and for 1/350, or 1/700, you need an airbrush with very fine tip.

Hi Pete,

I did not see this page of his blog. Seems he uses a very subtle preshading as you said.

Too late for my current build (Kagero), hull is already painted, guess I will only use some weathering without trying plating effects...

Thanks for your help !

Chris

These photos from his blog suggests it is very careful preshading, but like you I'd like to know for sure

http://blog.naver.com/PostThumbnailView ... m=postList


P

Hi all,

I would like to replicate the hull plating effect (painting) shown in the awesome models from Hyun Soo Kim :



Any idea about the clever masking pattern or any other tip that would reproduce such result ?

(I tried to contact Hyun Soo Kim with no success yet).

Thanks for your help
Chris