by jpeeler » Thu Nov 30, 2017 10:50 pm
I second the use of Tamiya primer, which grabs the surface really nicely but doesn't tend to etch the way other primers have done with me. You can airbrush it or use the spray cans (I use the cans because I'm lazy).
Resin doesn't have the "give" that most plastics do - it tends to snap instead of flex - so a good saw is a must (a Zona or similar for large jobs such as removing pour stubs from the hull and other large parts, and a JLC or similar for precision work). Also have a variety of sanding sticks on hand to shape things and smooth surfaces out.
Use cyanoacrylate glue for assembly. I also advise you to have some epoxy putty (Apoxie Sculpt, Milliput, etc.) to fill casting voids or make any corrections. For smaller areas that needed filling or smoothing out, I've had good luck with the fillers used by auto body shops or even Squadron putty.
Also, be prepared to do a little scratchbuilding. You'll have to build masts and similar details from supplied lengths of tube, but it's not really that difficult (just be prepared for a little trial and error). ISW does supply thorough photoetch with its kits, so as far as the systems mounted on the masts, you'll be all set.
One more note: Iron Shipwright produces really neat kits of subjects you really don't see elsewhere, but they sometimes need help in the finer areas. They are neat kits, but they're essentially homemade, and sometimes you can tell in fine areas (bilge keels can be short shot or damaged in transit) and also in weapons and other fine details. For those kinds of things I'll usually replace them with aftermarket parts (either something from Shapeways or Veteran Models as appropriate or available). For other things like bilge keels or warped superstructure decks, I will cut replacements from plastic card and transplant details like ammo lockers or deckhouses as needed.
Above all else, take your time and be patient. These aren't shake-the-box kits but if you give them care and attention in the build, you'll get a model you will be proud of.
Jodie Peeler
I second the use of Tamiya primer, which grabs the surface really nicely but doesn't tend to etch the way other primers have done with me. You can airbrush it or use the spray cans (I use the cans because I'm lazy).
Resin doesn't have the "give" that most plastics do - it tends to snap instead of flex - so a good saw is a must (a Zona or similar for large jobs such as removing pour stubs from the hull and other large parts, and a JLC or similar for precision work). Also have a variety of sanding sticks on hand to shape things and smooth surfaces out.
Use cyanoacrylate glue for assembly. I also advise you to have some epoxy putty (Apoxie Sculpt, Milliput, etc.) to fill casting voids or make any corrections. For smaller areas that needed filling or smoothing out, I've had good luck with the fillers used by auto body shops or even Squadron putty.
Also, be prepared to do a little scratchbuilding. You'll have to build masts and similar details from supplied lengths of tube, but it's not really that difficult (just be prepared for a little trial and error). ISW does supply thorough photoetch with its kits, so as far as the systems mounted on the masts, you'll be all set.
One more note: Iron Shipwright produces really neat kits of subjects you really don't see elsewhere, but they sometimes need help in the finer areas. They are neat kits, but they're essentially homemade, and sometimes you can tell in fine areas (bilge keels can be short shot or damaged in transit) and also in weapons and other fine details. For those kinds of things I'll usually replace them with aftermarket parts (either something from Shapeways or Veteran Models as appropriate or available). For other things like bilge keels or warped superstructure decks, I will cut replacements from plastic card and transplant details like ammo lockers or deckhouses as needed.
Above all else, take your time and be patient. These aren't shake-the-box kits but if you give them care and attention in the build, you'll get a model you will be proud of.
Jodie Peeler