by kevinb120 » Fri May 13, 2005 11:20 pm
For some reason I was having a bear of a time getting the safetynets straight on my elevators. I ended up buying a second set of PE because I changed paint colors after I started. I had used CA and no matter what I did it didnt look 'clean' on elevators(but ok on the deck edges for some reason). I pre-painted them on the second try and fully painted the elevator frames. I then sprayed only the front with just enough paint to stay 'glossy' for a couple minutes and stuck the PE nets in the paint(VERY carefully). I then did one more dust-coat on the area to make sure it was all uniform. Worked PERFECTLY with no traceable attatchment. It definately has to be the 'right' part to do that, but for that one application it was awesome. I have yet to find another part that that trick would work on on the entire kit.
Some parts just like white glue, some CA. If I get frustrated with one type of adhesive on a part, the other works perfectly for some reason. It takes VERY little glue if you are going to paint the part after attatchment though, the paint becomes a bonding/sealing agent, so its a totally different approach to say, a rail prepainted a different color then the mate where the glue work has to be perfect. You can very carefully use a needle file or an actual sewing needle(the point is not as sharp as a pin) to 'knock down' any hardened blobs of super glue and then use brush on dull-cote to de-gloss it(it also helps seal and bond). If the PE is painted with the model you can simply use a toothpick to burnish down any dust or 'hairs' you find on a joint after painting.
I would buy a small, inexpensive(but fun) model like a 1/350 Dragon Ticonderoga and use PE on that before doing a battleship for practice on a budget. A full-on battleship is probably the hardest to do PE on with complicated superstructures, cranes, and catapults.
For some reason I was having a bear of a time getting the safetynets straight on my elevators. I ended up buying a second set of PE because I changed paint colors after I started. I had used CA and no matter what I did it didnt look 'clean' on elevators(but ok on the deck edges for some reason). I pre-painted them on the second try and fully painted the elevator frames. I then sprayed only the front with just enough paint to stay 'glossy' for a couple minutes and stuck the PE nets in the paint(VERY carefully). I then did one more dust-coat on the area to make sure it was all uniform. Worked PERFECTLY with no traceable attatchment. It definately has to be the 'right' part to do that, but for that one application it was awesome. I have yet to find another part that that trick would work on on the entire kit.
Some parts just like white glue, some CA. If I get frustrated with one type of adhesive on a part, the other works perfectly for some reason. It takes VERY little glue if you are going to paint the part after attatchment though, the paint becomes a bonding/sealing agent, so its a totally different approach to say, a rail prepainted a different color then the mate where the glue work has to be perfect. You can very carefully use a needle file or an actual sewing needle(the point is not as sharp as a pin) to 'knock down' any hardened blobs of super glue and then use brush on dull-cote to de-gloss it(it also helps seal and bond). If the PE is painted with the model you can simply use a toothpick to burnish down any dust or 'hairs' you find on a joint after painting.
I would buy a small, inexpensive(but fun) model like a 1/350 Dragon Ticonderoga and use PE on that before doing a battleship for practice on a budget. A full-on battleship is probably the hardest to do PE on with complicated superstructures, cranes, and catapults.