The Ship Model Forum

by **Quincy** » Sat Aug 23, 2008 2:47 pm

I grew up in Chicopee, Massachusetts. I moved to Oklahoma with my wife last August, thats why the RSN Oklahoma.
They'll be lucky if they make the playoffs this year as a Wild Card the way they are playing now.

Bob Pink.

by **Dirkpitt289** » Sat Aug 23, 2008 11:53 am

Red Sox Nation Oklahoma, eh?

Representing Red Sox nation New Jersey, Right in the heart of the Evil Empire. GO SAWX!

by **Quincy** » Sat Aug 23, 2008 9:52 am

You are like me then at the hobby shop. I usually run up the bill myself.
I started a post on the Calling All Ship Fans section, its called calling all IJN sub fans. That would be a good place to show your work for future reference. I'm going to be posting my completed subs on it in the near future. I can't now because we will be moving in about a month , and my stuff is all packed at the moment.

Bob Pink.

by **Dirkpitt289** » Fri Aug 22, 2008 9:57 pm

Quincy wrote:Another trip to the hobby store is a good thing. I was going to ask you which I-58 you are doing? Is it the kaiten carrier, or is it the one that comes with the I-16?
Bob Pink.

No another trip to the hobby shop is NOT a good thing. It always ends up costing me $50 or more.

This is the I-58 Kaiten kit. I also have the one you mentioned but haven't started it yet.

I ended up washing the deck with a 1-10 ratio of paint to thinner. Its not great but it'll do for now. I have 4 more (I-58 I-16 I-370 and I-68) of these I boats to perfect my skills. Right now I'm working on installing the PE railings.

I'll post photos when I'm done.

by **Quincy** » Fri Aug 22, 2008 9:30 pm

Another trip to the hobby store is a good thing.

I was going to ask you which I-58 you are doing? Is it the kaiten carrier, or is it the one that comes with the I-16?

Bob Pink.

by **Dirkpitt289** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 2:43 pm

Quincy wrote:Hi Dirk:

The I-58's deck was stained black for concealment purposes. This is the technique that I use for simulating this. Although its not a wash, this is what I do. First, I paint the deck a wood color, I like to use Floquil Aged Concrete for this color. After this dries well for a couple of days, I then use a Black Pastel chalk on the deck. I take a medium sized brush, dip on the powder, then from bow to stern apply the chalk. The affect is just to have enough of the black stain on the deck with the natural wood color bleeding through. This stain wore out very quickly due to sea water, deck traffic, and the hot South Pacific sun.

The best part about this technique is, if you don't like the way it came out, just use a paper towel soaked in water to remove the powder.

Bob Pink.

Bob

I like the way that sounds, This means another trip to the hobby store... ugh!

I'll keep you posted

by **Quincy** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 1:26 pm

Hi Dirk:

The I-58's deck was stained black for concealment purposes. This is the technique that I use for simulating this. Although its not a wash, this is what I do. First, I paint the deck a wood color, I like to use Floquil Aged Concrete for this color. After this dries well for a couple of days, I then use a Black Pastel chalk on the deck. I take a medium sized brush, dip on the powder, then from bow to stern apply the chalk. The affect is just to have enough of the black stain on the deck with the natural wood color bleeding through. This stain wore out very quickly due to sea water, deck traffic, and the hot South Pacific sun.

The best part about this technique is, if you don't like the way it came out, just use a paper towel soaked in water to remove the powder.

Bob Pink.

by **Yevgeniy** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 11:40 am

It can be the reason you note - paint and thinner not mixed well. Also can be other reasons:-

- is the thinner you use designed for the paints? (for example Tamiya paints and Tamiya thinner)
- I do exactly as Sylvain wrote so I wait for 3+ days for the base paint to be completely dry otherwise you risk ruining your paintjob
- may be paints you use are not the best for the brush (I experimented with Tamiya acrycils by brush and did not get satisfactory results) or vice versa if you use airbrush
- I should have been noted that now I use Humbrol enamels (switched from Revell ones) and quite satisfied with them (except ordor from thinner and hard time cleaning airbrush - so I want to switch to acrylics later)
- also I should have said that I use airbrush for most paintjobs including washing and get results satistactory at least for me

The technique I have described is how the "washing" was defined on this forum when I asked the question "what is washing and drybrushing". After I received several answers (for which I am still grateful) I did exactly as described and can say that the result is at least what I have expected.

Again, experiment with different techniques and paints is the key to success and you shall find the ones comfortable for you. Wish you happy and enjoyable modelling.

Yevgeniy

by **Dirkpitt289** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 10:31 am

Yevgeniy wrote:
If I need a wash I dilute paint in separate tinlet in proportion of 90% thinner : 10% paint (approximately of course). Thinner depends on the paint you use - use only one sold for the particular paint. After you apply this mixture on your pre-painted area - I do it by very thin brush (although I heard about applying "wash" just by flooding the whole area - I am too afraid of this "flooding"). The main concern here: the area you wash shall be completely dry otherwise your solvent may destroy your paintwork underneath.

Yevgeniy

I tried this method and wasn't comfortable with the way it was coming out so I stopped. I think it was because the paint and the thinner didn't mix well.

by **Sylvain Auger** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 9:43 am

I copied an answer I gave in the WIP section. Hope it helps with the washes. It's actually easier than it looks

Here's what I do for the wooden decks. I start by painting the deck a uniform "tan" color and I let dry for about 5 to 7 days. Afterward I use a wash of "earth brown" over the tan color. I use a flat brush and I brush the wash until it gets sticky (Remove a bit of the wash from the brush first). At that point the wash will leave streaks that mimic the wood grain (overscale yes but it looks good) I then proceed to paint all the fittings and structures before doing the final wash of black (again I wait for a week).

That wash is applied liberally over the decks and structures and I wipe out the excess with a lint-free cloth. The black wash actually blends everything together and it gives some impression of shadows around the fittings.

It should be noted that I use enamel paints exclusively.

by **Charlestonguy** » Tue Aug 19, 2008 11:48 am

I use two methods; one is acrylics thinned to 90% or more. Oils will work just as well but will tend to be less forgiving if you make it too thick. A base coat of oil with acrylics used for weathering will give you some freedom to correct any mistakes.
The next is an old school way using oil based artiest paint; I mix a bottle of 1 part brown ocher with four parts turpentine thinner. Mix and apply a coat, which will look horrid at first, but keep going. Now after it has time to dry (about a day) take a Q-Tip with a little fresh thinner and wipe the deck gently to remove the top coat. What will be left over is buried in the recesses. Then top coat with a flat clear to seal it in.
The brown ocher will give it a dark oil stain look, the kind of condition that you might find on an operational ship, but not one ready for inspection by the Admiral.
I like the idea of the pensile, that one I�ll have to try myself.

by **Yevgeniy** » Tue Aug 19, 2008 11:31 am

I can say about the methods which I learned from experienced people here and which I tried myself so this will be my humble gratitude to master MWarshippers who tought me in my time

If I need a wash I dilute paint in separate tinlet in proportion of 90% thinner : 10% paint (approximately of course). Thinner depends on the paint you use - use only one sold for the particular paint. After you apply this mixture on your pre-painted area - I do it by very thin brush (although I heard about applying "wash" just by flooding the whole area - I am too afraid of this "flooding"). The main concern here: the area you wash shall be completely dry otherwise your solvent may destroy your paintwork underneath.

Another more simple way to highlight planking (which I was not able to use since I use only enamels at this stage and my paint gets clogged in planking) is to highlight planking by lead pensil. May be it will be better for you as you work with 1/700 and I read that several master modellers use this method for highlighting details.

Anyway you will find the best way for you by experiment - better try not on ready model but on some scrap prepainted plastic or you can find yourself ruining your work. Good luck with your wash and as usual pictures of ready-for-display product will be appreciated.

Yevgeniy

by **Dirkpitt289** » Tue Aug 19, 2008 9:25 am

I'm working on a 1/700 I-58 sub and I'm wondering what the simplest and best method to washing the deck (highlighting planks) is? I will also need to use this formula on my HMT Olympic project if it works.

Some people say watercolors? Other people talk about thinner, making a wash with soap, another said mineral spirits? I just want something simple so I don't have to run out to my LHS. Every time I go it costs me a ton of money (Kid in a candy store syndrome).

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