The Ship Model Forum

The vents are made with brass or aluminium tubes and vacuumformed tops.

I made the masts with aluminium rods and styrene. the articulation between the mast and the derrick is made with small photoetched parts

I made one double mast with the corresponding derricks. As I want to finish the central part first, I'm making the railings with photoetched stanchions made by Saemann

A nice scale to work in, one can do convincing wooden decks and may other small details!

Thanks for sharing! Tom

I've done some work on the masts and derricks

One of the advantages of a larger scale is the ability to do a convincing job of rigging the cargo booms. I larger models, especially sailing ships examining the running rigging is quite fascinating!

Cheers: Tom

thanks Tom !
While I was fixing my rigging, I was thinking of the guys who build sailing ships. This must be a nightmare, I admire them

The forward part is almost complete, only missin : top mast railing and rope reels.

I ve tried Hauler for etching the parts I designed on Corel Draw, they did a good job and they're not expensive. You can see it with the rope reels

Can’t wait to see the rest! Superb!

_________________
Pascal

•Battleship Bretagne 3D: https://vu.fr/FvCY
•SS Delphine 3D: https://vu.fr/NeuO
•SS Nomadic 3D: https://vu.fr/tAyL
•USS Nokomis 3D: https://vu.fr/kntC
•USS Pamanset 3D: https://vu.fr/jXGQ

thank you Iceman !
But summer is not a good time for ship modelling : go to the beach in the afternoon, fiestas in the evening and shaky hands the day after !
Anyway I started working on the lifeboats. 2 are metallic and I made them with resin, another one is clinker built

The forward part is finished, the only missing thing is the name of the ship, and I still don't know how to make it.
I've ordered BECC White Vinyl Lettering, I'll make tests but this ship has such a long name !

For ships name and numbers I have been able to utilize a "Cameo" machine which allows one to cut out (1) quite small and accurate letters and numbers (2) use the computer driven bead to cut stencils. I have been able to do many of such items, even draft marks with this machine. I got the idea for this from 'Iceman" who had used these machines previously. Many fonts are available and one can add fonts from on line, allowing one. to type out the arrangement of desired characters.

Cheers: Tom

Thanks Fliger !
The Cameo machine costs 300 euros !
I'll try first the becc letters I've already ordered.
If it doesn't work, there's a fablab in my town (where i made laser cut for my hull) and I think they have a cameo machine.
The challenge then will be aligning all the letters.

here are BECC letters

I worry that these self adhesive letters might fall off after the adhesive has aged. They often are excessively thick for lettering on models. Sometimes you can't find the right color letters. And the letters may change color with ageing.

The solution I have used is this:

1. Paint the area where you want the lettering in the desired color for the letters. Let the paint dry.

2. Apply the rub-on letters.

3. Spray the background color over the lettering area. Let the paint dry.

4. Remove the rub-on letters. Ordinary masking tape has worked for this.

This allows you to use any color rub-on letters as "reverse stencils" to make any color lettering. The resulting lettering will be only as thick as the layer of paint. And you won't have to worry that the letters will fall off or change color!

Phil

_________________
A collision at sea will ruin your entire day. Aristotle

wow ! very clever ! I m gonna try it

thank you

I have used both methods for lettering. The Cameo-Cricut type vinyl stuff is often used on cars and whatnot and seems to adhere well. I overspray the applied lettering with a dull coat type material. The best most permanent method is as Phil describes as only paint remains. However the paint will attempt to creep under the edges of the masks. One can use a coat of the letters color (eg white) and then spray the hull color. A number of very light airbrush coats will minimize creep under the letters.

I suggest you experiment with this a bit first!

Good luck! Tom

I second what Tom said about spraying over the letters with the letter color before applying the finishing background color. For example, if you want white letters, after applying the rub-on letters spray a light coat of white paint over them. This way if any paint bleeds under the letters it will be white. Then spray the background color (grey, etc.) over the letters.

I developed this technique many years ago when I needed some silver Railroad Gothic Condensed (I think that was the font) letters for a model locomotive. I found decals and rub-ons in every color but silver! So I bought some black rub-ons in the correct font and size and used them as stencils.

Phil

_________________
A collision at sea will ruin your entire day. Aristotle

thank you all

Thanks Phil.

_________________
Pascal

•Battleship Bretagne 3D: https://vu.fr/FvCY
•SS Delphine 3D: https://vu.fr/NeuO
•SS Nomadic 3D: https://vu.fr/tAyL
•USS Nokomis 3D: https://vu.fr/kntC
•USS Pamanset 3D: https://vu.fr/jXGQ

I tried DrPr method with BECC letters 4mm high.
But these letters are too big, 3.5 mm would be much better.

I'm not very satisfied with the result, maybe because of the vinyl lettres. There are traces of glue left, as you can see and white paint is peeled in some places.

Conclusion : I still don't know what to do.

Maybe I could go to the fablab in Sete, but it's expensive