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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2017 3:44 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2011 10:40 am
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Location: Lancashire, England
Scratchbuilding (in progress)
Bob


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File comment: Ready to start
1 (Small).JPG
1 (Small).JPG [ 79.26 KiB | Viewed 1452 times ]
File comment: Looking a bit rough
19 (Small).JPG
19 (Small).JPG [ 35.38 KiB | Viewed 1452 times ]
File comment: Looking a lot better
33 - Copy (Small).JPG
33 - Copy (Small).JPG [ 42.79 KiB | Viewed 1452 times ]
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2017 7:54 pm 
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:big_grin: :big_grin:

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On the ways:
1/350 USS Saratoga CV-3 ('44)
1/350 USS Yorktown CV-10 ('45)
1/192 USS Missouri BB-63 ('45)
1/350 HMS Duke of York ('45)


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2017 7:22 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2015 1:06 am
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Location: Bangkok, Thailand
Nice project! :thumbs_up_1:

Aop

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--1/350 Tamiya DKM Tirpitz Nov 1944

--1/350 scratch-build HMS Lion never built battleship (1938)

And our artworks!


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2017 4:08 pm 
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Location: Nr Southampton England
quite a big ship in 1/384 ...


lovely colour scheme.
ref the insignia on the funnel--will yo make a decal fro the blue star?

or print up a funnel wrap?

or handpaint..?
Intrigued!

JIM B :wave_1:

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 8:41 am 
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Location: Lancashire, England
Jim,
I will first mask off the top of the funnel, and spray paint it with red oxide matt. After that is dry, I will spray paint it with vermillion on top. The reason I do this, is that the red primer tones down the vermillion a bit to give the correct shade. I will then mask the bottom part, and spray paint the top with black. Next, I will stick a white band round the black part. The white circle with the blue star on it will be produced in the compter with the drawing section of Word 2000. I will print it out on this, good quality white paper, cut it out, and stick it on. This method is very effective. The attcahed images show the Tuscan Star funnel being painted. The bracket on the second picture is so that I can stick the star on the top, turn it over and stick the star on the other side, knowing that they will be directly opposite.
Bob
PS Sorry for late reply, I didn't get a notificatuon of reply!


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Tuscan Star 2 (2) (Small).JPG
Tuscan Star 2 (2) (Small).JPG [ 30.45 KiB | Viewed 1147 times ]
Tuscan Star 2 (1) (Small).JPG
Tuscan Star 2 (1) (Small).JPG [ 34.9 KiB | Viewed 1147 times ]
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 9:08 am 
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Location: Lancashire, England
I wasn't getting notifications because my e-mail address has changed, and I forgot to change it here. I have now done this, so everything should be OK again.
I have been working on the bridge section this morning, and should soon be able to post more images.
Bob


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 11:00 am 
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Posts: 7
Good tip on the funnel decals, Bob. I'll certainly make use of it on my next model :big_grin:


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 11:52 am 
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Location: Lancashire, England
Yes, it does make things easier. I have now almost completed the bridge section, and it is looking a lot better.
Bob


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File comment: Imperial Star 9th March 2017
36 (Small).JPG
36 (Small).JPG [ 42.15 KiB | Viewed 1131 times ]
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 1:17 pm 
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Location: In the hills of North Jersey
Excellent work!

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"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday." John Wayne

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 10:17 am 
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Location: Lancashire, England
A bit more progress has been made with the after accommodation, but it is not fixed in position yet.
Bob


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File comment: 13th March 2017
37 (Small).JPG
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2017 3:13 am 
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Location: Lancashire, England
Hatches and deckhouses fitted, 16th March, 2017
Bob


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File comment: 16th March 2017
Imperial Star 16th March 2017 (Small).JPG
Imperial Star 16th March 2017 (Small).JPG [ 42.51 KiB | Viewed 944 times ]
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2017 4:00 am 
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Location: Nr Southampton England
Lookiing very shipshapish!

:thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:

JIM B

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....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2017 5:16 am 
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Yes Jim, I think I have finally got through the "fedupish" stage! :thumbs_up_1:
Bob


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 9:10 am 
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Location: Lancashire, England
I have now made and fitted the side stanchions and guardrails alongside the port side of the after accommodation. This caused me some considerable trouble. Whenever I find a product that suits me, it is usually discontinued. In this case, it was the etch-resistant pen that I used for preparing 2 'thou brass shim, from which I etched the side stanchions. I know there are plenty of these pens on the market, but the only ones that worked for me have now been discontinued. Consequently, I had to laboriously, (very laboriously) sit down and solder separate slices of brass shim together. The first image shows my second (successful) attempt. I have cut it in two across the centre, thus giving me port and starboards sides exactly the same length. I then fitted the rails behind them, and stuck them on the model. I am delighted with the result. - Bob


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File comment: Side stanchions
43 (Large) (Small).JPG
43 (Large) (Small).JPG [ 69.34 KiB | Viewed 811 times ]
File comment: Port side rails and stanchions fitted
42 (Large) (Small).JPG
42 (Large) (Small).JPG [ 46.7 KiB | Viewed 811 times ]
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 1:48 pm 
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Very sharp result.

No need for allowing for deck spring/ sheerline?

or is it not noticeable over such a limited length?
Looking good and getting that 'busy' appearance!

JB

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....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

IPMS UK SIG (special interest group) www.finewaterline.com


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 2:34 pm 
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Location: Lancashire, England
Jim,
As I cut the stanchion assembly across in the middle to give me port and starbord sides, the bottom of the stanchions are open, and each stanchion is just spot glued to the hull at the bottom end. The strip at the top is so thin that it bends along the sheer quite well. If the bottom of the stanchions was closed as well, it would be a different matter!
Bob


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 12:50 am 
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Bob,

I used to use Sharpie Permanent Markers to draw lines on copper clad circuit board material and then etch it with ferric chloride, pretty much like photo etching. The Sharpies were very permanent - in the lab we used them to write on glass flasks and it withstood autoclaving at 100 Celsius and 30 psi steam for 15-20 minutes. However, the ink washes off easily with acetone.

CAUTION: there are Sharpie Markers and Sharpie Permanent Markers. Some really aren't permanent so the ink will wash out of clothing. You should test them before using them for anything important.

Phil

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 4:07 am 
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Location: Lancashire, England
Thanks Phil,
I have just sent for a Sharpie pen. I can always use it for something else if it doesn't work for etching, but I see they have very good reviews. (I do a lot of plan drawing as well).
Bob


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File comment: British Isles
British Isles.jpg
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 11:26 pm 
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Sharpies release a lot of ink - whatever the surface will take up. They don't work very well for drawing on porous material like paper because the ink bleeds. Pretty good on velum or plastic sheets.

The "standard" Sharpie with the rounded ends has a wide blunt tip good for making lines about 0.018" to 0.020" (0.5 mm). The smaller flat ended "Extra Fine Point" pens draw a narrow line about 0.010" to 0.012" (0.25 to 0.3 mm). They are "felt tip" markers so if you press hard you get a wider line. The ink dries immediately.

Phil

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 1:50 am 
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Location: Lancashire, England
Thanks Phil,
I mainly want them for etching. I ordered the fine one to begin with, but they are not all that expensive anyway. The normal etch pens that I have tried in the past have never been much good, with only about 80% of the etching being OK, but random gaps. Until now, I have been drawing the lines using etch pens, and then sticking thin strips of "magic sellotape" over them. The combination of ink and tape usually produced a perfect etch, but was very tedious in setting it all up. I am hoping the Sharpies will solve the problem. It has not arrived yet, but Amazon are usually very quick to deliver.
Bob


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