The Ship Model Forum

The Ship Modelers Source
It is currently Thu Jul 27, 2017 9:56 am

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 42 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 12:41 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 2:27 pm
Posts: 253
With all the internal compartments filled with resin I could now start to sand down the outside of the hull to the required shape. I like to us a 120 grit wet and dry paper to take off the majority of the rough grain in the wood. Whilst sanding I could feel the peaks and hollows that would require removing and filling. To fill any hollow areas I use a quick sand resin filler paste that is applied and once set sanded back to shape. The process of sanding and filling is repeated until I am happy with the final finish and shape of the hull. Then I sand with a 220 grit paper to give a smoother finish.
Attachment:
70-001-0029.JPG
70-001-0029.JPG [ 251.91 KiB | Viewed 996 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0030.JPG
70-001-0030.JPG [ 211.08 KiB | Viewed 996 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0031.JPG
70-001-0031.JPG [ 239.31 KiB | Viewed 996 times ]

_________________
Tiny's Modelling Site https://sites.google.com/site/tinysmodellingsite/Welcome


Report this post
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 2:29 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 2:27 pm
Posts: 253
To finish the bow and stern sections I roughly cut to shape a number of 10mm thick balsa blocks and glued them in place either side of the keel. Then using a detail sander the rough shaped balsa was sanded back to flow into the lines of the rest of the hull.
Attachment:
70-001-0032.JPG
70-001-0032.JPG [ 219.45 KiB | Viewed 951 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0033.JPG
70-001-0033.JPG [ 221.64 KiB | Viewed 951 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0034.JPG
70-001-0034.JPG [ 184.51 KiB | Viewed 951 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0035.JPG
70-001-0035.JPG [ 183.12 KiB | Viewed 951 times ]

_________________
Tiny's Modelling Site https://sites.google.com/site/tinysmodellingsite/Welcome


Report this post
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 3:23 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 5:30 pm
Posts: 4090
Location: Nr Southampton England
very sharp!


Making good progress!

question;


You do not have any problems with that density of Balsa ,
expanding/ contracting with temperature/ humidity fluctuations?

...following the build!

JB

_________________
....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

IPMS UK SIG (special interest group) www.finewaterline.com


Report this post
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 10:58 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 2:27 pm
Posts: 253
Jim,

I haven't notice any issues with the balsa expanding/contracting due to temp variations.

_________________
Tiny's Modelling Site https://sites.google.com/site/tinysmodellingsite/Welcome


Report this post
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 1:20 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 2:27 pm
Posts: 253
I decided to have a break from all the filling and sanding on the hull and to start making the prop shafts and tubes. Firstly I bought two 400mm long M4 thread prop shafts to use the stainless steel shafts. I also purchased two 300mm long 6mm OD brass tubes and a length of 6mm OD brass bar to make my own tubes to the correct length. The first stage was to make the four bearings for either end of the two tubes using the 6mm OD brass bar and turning it down 5mm in length to 5mm OD so each one would slot in to the end of the 6mm OD tube. Then I centre drilled the end and drilled a 3.8mm OD hole down the centre. The 3.8mm OD hole was then reamed with a 4mm OD reamer to ensure the hole was perfectly round and a good fit for the 4mm OD shaft.

With the bearings made I then made the oil tube mount using some hexagonal brass I had in my scrap box. I used this because it would be easier to drill the hole for the vertical oil tube on a flat face. The hexagonal brass was placed in the lathe and the end faced off, centre drilled and a 6mm OD hole drilled down the centre. I cut a piece just over 10mm long off the end of the brass and placed that in the lathe to face off the rough cut end. I repeated everything to make a second. I now had what looked like two brass nuts with no threads. I placed each one in turn in to a drill vice and vertically drilled a 6mm OD hole in to one of the flat faces. Now I cut two lengths of 6mm OD brass tube and pushed each one in to the hole in the hexagonal brass section.

This assembly was then slipped over the 6mm OD brass tube and positioned 10mm from the end and one of the brass bearing slotted in the end of the tube. The whole assembly was then soldered together with the help of a gas torch to provide enough heat. The two tubes where placed in the hull in the position where they would are located and the length of each marked so they could be cut to the right length at the point where they exit the hull. Each tube was cut and the other bearing was soldered in place ensuring it was square so the shaft would turn smoothly.
Attachment:
70-001-0036.JPG
70-001-0036.JPG [ 262.5 KiB | Viewed 854 times ]

With the tubes complete I turned my attention to the two A Frame shaft support bosses. Using a piece of 9mm OD brass bar I turned down a length of 50mm to a diameter of 8mm to give me enough to make two. The end was faced off, centre drilled and a 3.8mm hole drilled down the centre approximately 25mm into the bar. Next I calculated the angle needed to cut the chamfer and set the head sock to an angle of 14 degrees. Once the chamfer was turned I cut off the boss at a length of 22mm and put that into the chuck to ream it out to 4mm and face off the other end to a length of 20mm. I repeated the whole process to make the second boss.
Attachment:
70-001-0037.JPG
70-001-0037.JPG [ 256.84 KiB | Viewed 854 times ]

I purchased two 45mm diameter brass props to fit the M4 threaded shafts.

_________________
Tiny's Modelling Site https://sites.google.com/site/tinysmodellingsite/Welcome


Report this post
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 2:53 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 2:27 pm
Posts: 253
The rudder tube was the next item I decided to make in a similar manner to the prop tubes. I turned two bearings from a section of 6mm OD brass bar but with a 3.2mm OD hole down the centre. With those complete I cut a length of 6mm OD tube to 66mm in length and soldered the bearings into either end. Any excess solder was removed and the tube was slotted into the hole I had already prepared in the keel.
Attachment:
70-001-0038.JPG
70-001-0038.JPG [ 257.6 KiB | Viewed 771 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0039.JPG
70-001-0039.JPG [ 186.49 KiB | Viewed 771 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0040.JPG
70-001-0040.JPG [ 152.31 KiB | Viewed 771 times ]

_________________
Tiny's Modelling Site https://sites.google.com/site/tinysmodellingsite/Welcome


Report this post
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 5:35 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 5:30 pm
Posts: 4090
Location: Nr Southampton England
Neat, sharp, and well explained! :thumbs_up_1:

JB

_________________
....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

IPMS UK SIG (special interest group) www.finewaterline.com


Report this post
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 1:32 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 2:27 pm
Posts: 253
Thanks for the comments Jim.

To set the exact position of the two prop shafts I needed to make a simple plywood jib. I cut a piece of plywood to 100mm long x 70mm high and marked the centre line of the keel down the middle and drilled two 4mm diameter holes 35mm either side. Then using the table saw I cut a slot down the centre line so that the jig could be slotted in place on frame 9 at the correct height. Now I could position the tubes in the hull and slot the shafts in place and test fit the two props to check the clearances around the keel and hull.
Attachment:
70-001-0043.JPG
70-001-0043.JPG [ 242.9 KiB | Viewed 676 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0042.JPG
70-001-0042.JPG [ 146.86 KiB | Viewed 676 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0041.JPG
70-001-0041.JPG [ 159.98 KiB | Viewed 676 times ]

_________________
Tiny's Modelling Site https://sites.google.com/site/tinysmodellingsite/Welcome


Report this post
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2017 3:32 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 2:27 pm
Posts: 253
To make the rudder I first printed out a drawing of the main blade, cut it out and placed it on to a 1.5mm thick sheet of brass. I scribed around the paper cut out and then drilled holes with a 2mm drill around the outline to make it easier to cut out. The rough shape was then filed to shape with a rough file and the edges finished with a fine file. To mount the main 3.2mm OD shaft a slot was milled from the bottom edge 25mm long. This was repeated on the top edge. To solder the top and bottom shafts in place I made a simple jig from a piece of plywood with a 0.85mm slot milled into it to hold the shafts at the correct height for the rudder blade to sit at the centreline of the shafts. The bottom shaft was soldered into place.

At this point I realised that I had made an error with the top shaft by soldering the boss on the top to mount the servo horn on. I would not be able to slide the rudder shaft into the rubber tube as the diameter of the boss is 5mm and the rudder tube is only 3.2mm OD. After a bit of head scratching I figured if I removed the boss from the end of the shaft I could at least solder the rudder blade to the shaft. The top shaft was soldered in place and all the excess solder filed away. On top of the rudder blade is a square box which I made from two pieces of 1.5mm brass sheet soldered together. To solve the problem with the servo horn boss I cut a slot down the length of it. This would allow the boss to clamp onto the shaft when the servo horn screw was tightened up.
Attachment:
70-001-0045.JPG
70-001-0045.JPG [ 252.79 KiB | Viewed 611 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0047.JPG
70-001-0047.JPG [ 146.44 KiB | Viewed 611 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0048.JPG
70-001-0048.JPG [ 175.11 KiB | Viewed 611 times ]

_________________
Tiny's Modelling Site https://sites.google.com/site/tinysmodellingsite/Welcome


Report this post
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 12:50 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 2:27 pm
Posts: 253
At this point I was ready to permanently install the two prop shafts and tubes. To support the ends of the tubes inside the hull I made two brackets from some plywood and using two part epoxy glued them in placed. The two shafts were now locked in place with the help of the plywood jig holding the shafts in place on the outside of the hull. I next applied some car body filler to fill the two slots were the shafts pass through the hull. On the outside of the hull I also applied a small amount of filler paste were the shafts exit the hull and sanded it to shape.
Attachment:
70-001-0051.JPG
70-001-0051.JPG [ 258.9 KiB | Viewed 541 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0052.JPG
70-001-0052.JPG [ 169.2 KiB | Viewed 541 times ]

_________________
Tiny's Modelling Site https://sites.google.com/site/tinysmodellingsite/Welcome


Report this post
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 3:34 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 5:30 pm
Posts: 4090
Location: Nr Southampton England
Very neat work :thumbs_up_1:

-- the exterior of the hull looks like it has been faired intensively!

I find an intermediate coat of black will show up any highpoints before doing more ' proper' paintwork

best wishes
JIM B :wave_1:

_________________
....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

IPMS UK SIG (special interest group) www.finewaterline.com


Report this post
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 12:51 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 2:27 pm
Posts: 253
With both prop shafts permanently in place I could now make the two A Frames that support the ends of the shafts. I only had some photos of the boat out of the water to work from. Using the CAD software I drew up the two frames to work out the angles of the support legs and then printed the drawing. This drawing was then transferred on to a piece of scrap plywood which was to be the base of the jig. I had already made the two centre bosses so only needed to make two support legs for each of the frames. I drilled two 8mm OD holes into the plywood and inserted the two bosses to the right height. The legs are made from 6mm x 1mm brass strip cut to about 40mm in length. With the bosses set at the desired angle in the jig using accurately cut pieces of plywood and the ends of the support legs were filed to the matching angle to neatly fit. The brass strips were secured in place against the bosses using some more off cut of plywood ready to solder the joints. All the parts were disassembled, cleaned, reassembled in the jig and then soldered together.
Attachment:
70-001-0054.JPG
70-001-0054.JPG [ 210.03 KiB | Viewed 483 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0055.JPG
70-001-0055.JPG [ 204.83 KiB | Viewed 483 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0056.JPG
70-001-0056.JPG [ 241.28 KiB | Viewed 483 times ]

_________________
Tiny's Modelling Site https://sites.google.com/site/tinysmodellingsite/Welcome


Report this post
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2017 1:05 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 2:27 pm
Posts: 253
The next stage was to work out the exact positions of the two A Frames and drill holes in the hull for the legs to pass through. I eventually drilled two over size slots on each side of the keel and used the prop shaft jig to hold the shafts in place so the frames were held in position whilst the two part epoxy glue set. Once secure I was able to fill the holes with filler paste and sand smooth. On the inside of the hull I also applied some filler paste around the tops of the protruding legs.

To support the bottom of the rudder the skeg was made from 6 x 3mm square brass tubing with a 2mm diameter brass pin soldered in place to slide into the bottom tube of the rudder. The skeg has two more brass pins that are slotted into two holes drilled into the plywood keel.
Attachment:
70-001-0057.JPG
70-001-0057.JPG [ 147.58 KiB | Viewed 435 times ]

_________________
Tiny's Modelling Site https://sites.google.com/site/tinysmodellingsite/Welcome


Report this post
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2017 1:49 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 2:27 pm
Posts: 253
Along the length of the hull I decided to fit a 6mm deep brass keel to match up with the rudder skeg. From the skeg working forward two strips of 3mm square section were glued on top of each other and pinned into the plywood keel. To make the section around the curved bow a simple jig was made and slots cut into the brass at 5mm intervals. This made it easier to bend the strip to shape in the jig and then solder between each of the slots to hold its shape. This was then fitted to the keel and filler paste applied and sanded to shape it into the rest of the hull.
Attachment:
70-001-0058.JPG
70-001-0058.JPG [ 242.21 KiB | Viewed 396 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0059.JPG
70-001-0059.JPG [ 226.03 KiB | Viewed 396 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0060.JPG
70-001-0060.JPG [ 193.12 KiB | Viewed 396 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0061.JPG
70-001-0061.JPG [ 179.81 KiB | Viewed 396 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0062.JPG
70-001-0062.JPG [ 165.36 KiB | Viewed 396 times ]

_________________
Tiny's Modelling Site https://sites.google.com/site/tinysmodellingsite/Welcome


Report this post
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 10:57 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 2:27 pm
Posts: 253
Continuing on with the hull the next step was to clearly define the edge of the top plate which had become somewhat lost with all the sanding. To achieve this lengths of 1mm OD brass rod were glued in place to define the edges. Then a thin skim of filler paste was applied up to the brass rod on both sides and allowed to set. The filler was then sanded back to a smooth finish using the brass rod has a guide to produce the edge.
Attachment:
70-001-0063.JPG
70-001-0063.JPG [ 188.59 KiB | Viewed 352 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0064.JPG
70-001-0064.JPG [ 159.33 KiB | Viewed 352 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0065.JPG
70-001-0065.JPG [ 189.03 KiB | Viewed 352 times ]

_________________
Tiny's Modelling Site https://sites.google.com/site/tinysmodellingsite/Welcome


Report this post
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 2:54 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 5:30 pm
Posts: 4090
Location: Nr Southampton England
that is a great way of using a hard media- brass as a definition guide for soft media ( filler )

very cool

JB :wave_1:

_________________
....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

IPMS UK SIG (special interest group) www.finewaterline.com


Report this post
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 12:51 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 2:27 pm
Posts: 253
The hull is now at the stage were a coat of under coat was required to show up any imperfections still to remove. A couple of coats Halfords build up paint were sprayed on and left to reveal lots of minor scratches that would need working on. To remedy this the hull was sanded with fine grain wet and dry paper soaked in water to form a paste that fills in the scratches to leave a smooth finish.
Attachment:
70-001-0069.JPG
70-001-0069.JPG [ 156.96 KiB | Viewed 251 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0068.JPG
70-001-0068.JPG [ 199.91 KiB | Viewed 251 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0067.JPG
70-001-0067.JPG [ 124.55 KiB | Viewed 251 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0066.JPG
70-001-0066.JPG [ 199.16 KiB | Viewed 251 times ]

_________________
Tiny's Modelling Site https://sites.google.com/site/tinysmodellingsite/Welcome


Report this post
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Sat Jul 01, 2017 3:27 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 2:27 pm
Posts: 253
The next step was to fit the two MFA950D motors with 6:1 reduction gearboxes into the hull. Both were mounted on plywood bases using servo mounting screws and then the bases were glued to a piece of 6mm thick balsa that had been shaped to fit the profile of the inside of the hull. Each motor is fitted with an inline fuse and an RFI kit soldered across the terminals and to the motor casing to reduce any interference created. The motors shafts are connected to the prop shafts using double universal joints.
Attachment:
70-001-0070.JPG
70-001-0070.JPG [ 183.34 KiB | Viewed 200 times ]

Now the deck could be fitted which was cut from a sheet of 1mm thick plywood allowing about 5mm all round to sand it back to the edge of the hull. The plywood was glued down and clamped, taped around the edges and heavy batteries placed on top to hold it in place whilst the glue wood set.
Attachment:
70-001-0071.JPG
70-001-0071.JPG [ 240.52 KiB | Viewed 200 times ]

_________________
Tiny's Modelling Site https://sites.google.com/site/tinysmodellingsite/Welcome


Report this post
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2017 3:00 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 2:27 pm
Posts: 253
Firstly the paint was removed along the hull chine and using some 3.2mm half round plastic strip the rubbing strake was glued in place along the full length of the hull except for a small section near the bow. Around the top edge of the hull the paint was also removed so the top rubbing strake channel could be added. This was made using 6.3mm x 2mm C-section plastic strip which easily bent around the bow of the hull in one piece. Further pieces were added down each side. The hardest section was to get the neat angle were the two meet at the stern. One side was fitted first with a slight overlap and then trimmed back to the centre line of the hull. Then I carefully measured the other side and cut it slightly longer, cut the mating angle to fit, then cut off the excess at the other end before gluing in place.
Attachment:
70-001-0072.JPG
70-001-0072.JPG [ 191.94 KiB | Viewed 117 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0074.JPG
70-001-0074.JPG [ 138.08 KiB | Viewed 117 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0073.JPG
70-001-0073.JPG [ 139.79 KiB | Viewed 117 times ]

_________________
Tiny's Modelling Site https://sites.google.com/site/tinysmodellingsite/Welcome


Report this post
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 5:13 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 2:27 pm
Posts: 253
With the top rubbing strake fitted I decided to fit a plastic deck on top of the plywood deck already installed. By placing sheets on top of the hull and using a soft pencil the outline was marked onto the 0.8mm thick plastic sheets. Leaving about 3mm excess all around the deck shape was cut out and the back roughed with some sand paper to ensure a good adhesion. With the plastic deck glued in place the excess around the edge was sanded back in line with the rubbing strake.
Attachment:
70-001-0075.JPG
70-001-0075.JPG [ 163.95 KiB | Viewed 51 times ]

To make the bilge keels two strips of 6.3mm x 1mm plastic strip were cut to length and on the back five slots cut 0.5mm deep at 80mm centres to insert stainless steel pins into. Then ten 15mm long pin were cut from a length of stainless steel rod and one glued into each slot. The hull was marked with the locations of the bilge keels, holes were drilled for the pins to slot into after a bit of fiddling about and adjustment the keels were glued in place. To ensure a neat finish some filler paste was applied along the edge were they meet the hull and sanded back.
Attachment:
70-001-0076.JPG
70-001-0076.JPG [ 166.93 KiB | Viewed 51 times ]

Attachment:
70-001-0077.JPG
70-001-0077.JPG [ 144.65 KiB | Viewed 51 times ]

_________________
Tiny's Modelling Site https://sites.google.com/site/tinysmodellingsite/Welcome


Report this post
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 42 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 9 guests


You can post new topics in this forum
You can reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group