The Ship Model Forum

Pascal:

I appreciate that printing with supports is normal, however the degree of sanding to even out the belly for the ramp was rather extreme compared to printing directly on the platen. This was an unusual piece as the width was such that the flaring of the base was so small as to be almost not visible. I tried both and the piece directly on the platen was nearly perfect. I can certainly see that this might not often be the case. In the case of Phil's bitts, triming the edges would be more involved than trimming the small bottom area.

Not a push button part!

Regards: Tom

Actually, using the recommended (default) print timing the parts I am making come out to almost exact dimensions. I reprinted the bitts on supports - with added pegs to help with location on the model - and the dimensions of the 14" diameter cylinder was 100.2% of the ideal 1:96 dimensions. The measured dimensions were made with a digital caliper, and I would be surprised if it has an accuracy better than 0.2% - maybe not even that good.

The ideal dimension would be 14"/96 = 0.1458". I used three calipers and measured again, and got these measurements: 0.146 (digital), 0.145 (analog), 0.146 (analog). The average is 0.14566666 .... I am quite happy with a -0.0002 inch dimensional error.

I don't buy some of the opinions I have read about exposure times, and no one has offered any empirical data to support their opinions, so I guess I will have to run a series of experiments using a test piece and different exposure times to see what effect it really has on dimensions.

However, the results may be precisely valid only for my printer (specific UV light intensity) and the resin I use (specific sensitivity to UV exposure). But it might yield some general rules for exposure vs. dimensions.

Phil

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A collision at sea will ruin your entire day. Aristotle

This is an edge on view of the main deck ramps, on the left printed on supports, (bottom side is up). On the right printed on the platen. Note the uneven lumpiness on the part printed on supports.

Phil:

My suggestion is to measure a trial printed item and adjust in whatever slicer you are using, the dimensions. This can be done very accurately to achieve the exact size you wish. Note that at least in Chitubox each vector can be adjusted independently or together for scale. My guess is the real life bitts were manufactured with a little tolerance, especially in wartime.

Tom

Many distractions today besides ARL-12. Played ice hockey, skated, researched and found the correct shell holder for the 6.5mm Creedmore. As might be expected all the different providers use different numbering system?

Down to ship shape stuff, attempting to make block and tackle using EZ Line. The stretchiness of the line alleviates one problem but engenders several more. I think I am going to have to make a jig like i did for the APA stuff to hold both blocks in position. Feeding the line through the fairly microscopic holes in the top of the sheaves is accomplished by CA'ing the end of the line to a short length of stretched sprue which feeds through like a needle. Beginning with the boat booms as a trial run for rigging the main boat handling gear.

Ha-rump-ph.

Tom

Some minor success with making a block and tackle using EZ line, As with such items with the APA it worked to attach two small close pins to a base and use them to hold blocks in position while they are strung. The very small holes are difficult to string through so a smallish bit of stretched sprue is used as a needle, ca'd to the end of the line. I am also attempting to see how the EZ line works as lifelines. My stanchions are 3D printed and somewhat flexible so can't take tension. Another issue I discovered was painting EZ line isn't great as it remains stretchy and the paint is not. Printing yet another iteration of the triple blocks as getting just the right openings is a challenge in the real world. Eventually I will run out of reasons to procrastinate and tackle the rigging of the cargo booms.

Tom

Somewhat further evolution on the stringing of booms and blocks. Currently back to using regular smooth thread. Though the fine sprue CA'd to the thread end works mostly, often the size of the opening in the block is too small to allow this combo to pas smoothly. The latest iteration is to treat the last cm of the thread with CA and cut off at an angle to make a sharp point. This is sharp and still enough to thread fairly well. The main booms have to be threaded when using non stretchable thread. Working ok so far with a few issues. I see why the Kingposts were guyed and did so! Regular thread needs a degree of tension to pull the slack out.

A little more to string which will terminate in the dual cargo winch.

Cheers: Tom

Procrastination finally tolls it's bell. I got around to rigging the bow cargo booms and placing the dual winches.

Feeling better so got some work today. I may have or have had the scourge of the Emerald Isle and the little people "O'Micron".

The winch control stands, which I printed quite a few of, are hiding somewhere.

Cheers: Tom

Tom,

Glad you're back "in the saddle" as Ronnie Ray-Gun would say!!!

The rigging looks excellent - Was it E-Z line you used? It seems to be the right diameter for the application and everything taut and ship-shape! Great job!!

Hank

_________________
HMS III
Mocksville, NC
BB62 vet 68-69

Builder's yard:
USS STODDARD (DD-566) 66-68 1:144, USS-LSM/R-194 1:144
Finished:
USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 67-69 1:200
USN Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) 1:48
ROYAL CAROLINE (1748) 1:47
AVS (1768) 1:48

Hank:

Thank you! I did get some model work done yesterday, but trying to feed rigging when one is foggy and has the occasional shakes from chills is slow going. For the booms I used your excellent triple blocks. The rigging is done with a slightly stretchy thread used in stitching for such items as Spandex Sports Bras, available at the local yard goods emporium. As I mentioned before, after various experiments, I stiffened the last CM of the thread with CA and cut off a sharp point to ease threading through the small apertures in the blocks and pulleys.

Tom

Feeling somewhat better, some energy but small endurance. Finished all the main deck lifeline stanchions except for the ones on the foredeck sheer. Those will have to be printed with the correct deck angle on the base to get them to stand vertical. Requires both lefties and righties. Have to re do the guy lines for the Starboard boom. Port boom doesn't seem to have any.

Tom

As I have mentioned I hate rigging, which includes lifelines. Procrastination is an important feature in continuing models. So I have been "peopling" the fwd Quad 40 mount with "non birthing persons" (Doncha love PC Talk!) which is a useful diversion from rigging the fwd lifelines. So far not bad. Painting the little buggers (1) repetitive (2) tedious, especially as all my micro brushes have gotten bad and need replacing. Painting with toothpicks and sprue not all that rewarding. I guess I have joined the pointillist school of figure decoration.

If this works out I'll do the aft mount and proceed to the Orlikons.

Tom

Stern Quad 40 crew drilling.

Tom, is that lip supposed to be there at the base for the stern 40mm & the hull?

yes

maybe a shipyard specific thing as Sphinx appears not to have that lip.

K.T. F 's observation is " It's not easy being Green".

Nice to read you Tom, we wish you to get better and better in order to continue this excellent work.

I really like your sailors, it's a real plus on a model, there are too many ghost ships and what would become of a ship without a crew?

_________________
Pascal

•SS Delphine 3D: https://vu.fr/NeuO
•SS Nomadic 3D: https://vu.fr/tAyL
•VLCC Olympic Bravery 3D: https://vu.fr/OZMY
•USS Nokomis 3D: https://vu.fr/kntC
•USS Pamanset 3D: https://vu.fr/jXGQ

Thank you Pascal!

It would be better to develop the crew and weapons at the same time to get them to fit together better. As it is I am having to adjust the size of the sailors to match the existing weapon positions. Certainly I would desire the ability and tools to create such figures as necessary, but alas this is not likely to transpire any time soon. The APA, with the same weapons suite can also benefit from this personnel recruitment. The bell bottom trousers (Navy issue, actually straight legged) and Chambrai shirts add a convincing color contrast to an otherwise grey scheme. So it was fun to find these figures and see about weaving them into the scene. I hope I can find some more!

Regards: Tom

Tom,

Your crew has certainly added a new dimension to the overall effect of the model - well done! Those small amounts of color really bring out some of the more interesting details that otherwise might be missed.

Hank

_________________
HMS III
Mocksville, NC
BB62 vet 68-69

Builder's yard:
USS STODDARD (DD-566) 66-68 1:144, USS-LSM/R-194 1:144
Finished:
USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 67-69 1:200
USN Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) 1:48
ROYAL CAROLINE (1748) 1:47
AVS (1768) 1:48

What type of gray color is used on your ship and what year, Tom?

_________________
Pascal

•SS Delphine 3D: https://vu.fr/NeuO
•SS Nomadic 3D: https://vu.fr/tAyL
•VLCC Olympic Bravery 3D: https://vu.fr/OZMY
•USS Nokomis 3D: https://vu.fr/kntC
•USS Pamanset 3D: https://vu.fr/jXGQ